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completely. When barrel is out and the bolster put against the barrel there is complete contact. Entire lock plate is flat. Barrel is swamped. I have not drilled for the touch hole, and the plate is not drilled for either bolt. The barrel is pinned to the stock.
If not mentioned already, I’d check for any wood to metal contact on the bolster, the mainspring, the tumbler bridle, and the sear. Especially the tip of the sear.
 
I agree with TDM, you must rule out all possible wood interference. I stole a tube of red bees wax chapstick from my wife that I put on parts to see where they are hitting wood, when I get close and need a thinner medium I use a large black sharpie and color that on the metal to see if it transfers to wood to show interference. Pictures?
 
I agree with TDM, you must rule out all possible wood interference. I stole a tube of red bees wax chapstick from my wife that I put on parts to see where they are hitting wood, when I get close and need a thinner medium I use a large black sharpie and color that on the metal to see if it transfers to wood to show interference. Pictures?
The plate is completely stripped. I've been using soot to even the mortise. It does a poor job, because it does not make sufficient marks. I do have that sticky black stuff which I must try next. I did use PC 11 to raise the mortise rim and then had to use white out to make a completely white surface. I know I need to let down the bottom edge and then lower the lock plate without canting it again.
 
I KNOW YOU TOLD ME A MILLION TIMES DON'T YOU THOSE KIND OF BRUSHES ETC!!! TOOK A STUPID PILL YESTERDAY. .32s are hard to gut. Ended up pulling the powder drum and breach plug. Still banging my head on the wall.
 

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Had lots of stuff going on at home today so most of my ml stuff involved thinking. What I've been thinking about and trying to decide what to do about a problem.

I'm putting together a CVA Frontier kit and I've discovered that the set triggers are not right. The hook on the rear blade is misshapen. I fiddled a lot yesterday and wasn't able to correct the problem so I started thinking to make a single trigger for it. I shaped out a trigger plate and all the while thought about alternatives. So, at the end of the day (literally) I set it aside.

The alternatives were, buy another CVA trigger set , but Deer Creek is out. Ebay way overpriced. Then the thought of substituting an available single trigger set occurred and I spent some time on the Track site looking. Only one is sized such that it could work. Next up was a L&R DST4 that I have on hand. It appears that it would, with some trimming and filing be a good option.

So, thinking it through. Here's some pictures. I'm not necessarily soliciting advice but if you think either option is a pit trap feel free to speak up! 😀

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Had lots of stuff going on at home today so most of my ml stuff involved thinking. What I've been thinking about and trying to decide what to do about a problem.

I'm putting together a CVA Frontier kit and I've discovered that the set triggers are not right. The hook on the rear blade is misshapen. I fiddled a lot yesterday and wasn't able to correct the problem so I started thinking to make a single trigger for it. I shaped out a trigger plate and all the while thought about alternatives. So, at the end of the day (literally) I set it aside.

The alternatives were, buy another CVA trigger set , but Deer Creek is out. Ebay way overpriced. Then the thought of substituting an available single trigger set occurred and I spent some time on the Track site looking. Only one is sized such that it could work. Next up was a L&R DST4 that I have on hand. It appears that it would, with some trimming and filing be a good option.

So, thinking it through. Here's some pictures. I'm not necessarily soliciting advice but if you think either option is a pit trap feel free to speak up! 😀

View attachment 313223View attachment 313227View attachment 313228
Don’t really have any good advice, but I’d try working on the rear blade hook again. I looked at The Gun Works, but didn’t see any complete assemblies. But it might be worth a call to them, they might have a rear trigger stuck back somewhere.
 
Don’t really have any good advice, but I’d try working on the rear blade hook again. I looked at The Gun Works, but didn’t see any complete assemblies. But it might be worth a call to them, they might have a rear trigger stuck back somewhere.
I'll have a look at that. Thanks 😊
 
Worked on my 54 Woodsrunner, 2 coats of Aquafortis, 2 coats of Laurel Mountain Sealer, 4 coats of Beck Flintlocks 18th Century wood finishing wax. Almost ready for blasting.
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Worked on my 54 Woodsrunner, 2 coats of Aquafortis, 2 coats of Laurel Mountain Sealer, 4 coats of Beck Flintlocks 18th Century wood finishing wax. Almost ready for blasting.
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Hello Togo, that my friend is one fine looking Woodsrunner stock. Great color, and the curl is outstanding. I hope she shoots as good as she looks.
Kibler is the way to go for good wood with no surprises.
 
got notified that the mail carrier couldn't fit that wonderful Kibler crate into her jeep for delivery, plus they needed my chicken scratch on their little machine. So me and Lurch drove into town and picked up the Colonial.
Lurch has been sanding his woodsrunner for a week. i have the colonial ready for stain. Jims kits are fantastic. i felt like i was cheating on the plank builds surrounding me as i put that kit together.
sanded and stained the patch box lid. Aqua Fortis. came out a little darker than i wanted. just about the same as Togo's above .
will work on that.
 
got notified that the mail carrier couldn't fit that wonderful Kibler crate into her jeep for delivery, plus they needed my chicken scratch on their little machine. So me and Lurch drove into town and picked up the Colonial.
Lurch has been sanding his woodsrunner for a week. i have the colonial ready for stain. Jims kits are fantastic. i felt like i was cheating on the plank builds surrounding me as i put that kit together.
sanded and stained the patch box lid. Aqua Fortis. came out a little darker than i wanted. just about the same as Togo's above .
will work on that.
Your lucky you jumped on the Colonial when you did because if I would have seen his post before you it would have been coming to my house, darn good price. Too good to scroll on by. I work 3rd shift so sometimes I miss out on the goodies.
 
Hot sunny day. London

Something to do, on the verge of being an unmentionable But I thought might be interesting

It’s a swiss target 1885 rifle but it’s been messed around with, good or bad, modern stock ,replaced with a heavy .5 barrel 1/37 twist sometime in the distant past, the barrel is a centre fire muzzle loader . Seems to take 209 primers, never fired it , as it was unfinished. EBayuk got me a 1900 ladder peep sight , with a history it took top honours at the Commonwealth championships , magic £130. , sellers grandfather , I wanted a tunnel front sight but they were not used in 1900 so I just made one up this morning using my mill engraving machine , Yrs happy with that. Alongside is a proper Swiss target rifle 1885 7.5/63 1885 Swiss target rifle
 

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I once had a L&R lock bolster that was not perfect flat from the factory. A piece of 150 grit paper on a flat wooden block did the trick. Just put the bolster face down on the paper on the block and rub back and forth. Doesn't take too long either as the bolster metal is fairly soft.
It is perfectly flat. This morning (18th Apr) I got everything properly aligned, and the .0015 gage will not pass between pan and barrel or bolster to barrel. It is now time to drill and tap for two bolts.
 

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