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What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

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I finally got to the range to shoot my SMR. Had to wade from the truck to the shooting station as we're experiencing yet another thaw.

This was the first time shooting a flintlock for me. First shot was 2 inches low, but dead center. Second shot was a bullseye. I should have quit right then. It all went downhill from there. I will say I shoot this rifle better than any of my others.

I want to shoot this rifle in the Pemi woods walk this weekend. I think I'll hit the range again a couple more times before Saturday.

Target pics to follow...maybe.😀
Sometimes it just ain't yer day! ;)
 
Pulled the trigger on a overpriced "Big Boar" stock, but what the heck, I don't want to die with money in my pocket. I will migrate my 58 cal barrel that Mr. Hoyt bored and cut for me to it. I have all the parts and pieces sitting around to make up another stock, so this should make for a nice looking carbine ala big boar with a 2" shorter barrel.

After doing some research I have decided that a 1:32" 25" barrel in 54 cal is my next build up. That will go on the White Mountain Carbine stock that the 58 is coming out of. When Mr. Hoyt starts taking barrels again I have a renegade 50 cal to bore out and cut.

With that I think I will have what I want. to cover the spectrum of hunting I have and then some. I was holding out hope to get to the range as the temp, even though windy got up to 50 and sun......I was mistaken...old man winter refuses to let go, temp dropped to 34 and it is snowing 3 hours later..
 
Worked on my first powder horn. It’s not pretty or PC but I hope it will be functional. I go with the idea that I’ll make the mistakes on the first one then hopefully not as many on the second.
Love building power horns, each one is always better than the last. Have always been able to sell them. Need to just find the time.
Worked on my first powder horn. It’s not pretty or PC but I hope it will be functional. I go with the idea that I’ll make the mistakes on the first one then hopefully not as many on the second.
 
sighted in the Sharps carbine and looked like it was hitting low and left However checking up vlose the hits were in the black center and what I thought were the low left hits were shadows from some weeds in front of the target.
Got to do a little yard work.
Bunk
 
1/4-28 Musket Nipple.

THE solution to #11 cap shortages.
 

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Rewatching a couple of excellent "The Woodland Escape" videos. One on making a shot pouch and another on a shooting bag. Trying to decide which to start first. I'm planning on making the shooting bag out of an old trashed leather jacket.....getting myself to cut up the old trashed leather jacket is a little harder than I anticipated.
 
Tried calling The Muzzleloader Shop (the one associated with Loyalist Arms in Arkansas) to see if they had gotten in an 1842 musket that he had mentioned in the previous call. No answer. No joy then either on clarification on their 'canoe gun'. :dunno:

Checked Regimental Quartermaster and it was still $1,754.95 delivered. 😣 The spousal unit would blow 2 gaskets at that.
Called the Team Leader to ask her husband if he had gotten hold of the member that had dropped out for health reasons about his smoothbore. He didn't but offered to sell his original 1842 in match ready condition for $1.2k. Plus, would help me get all the metal parts I've got into a Dunlap Woodcrafting stock. :cool:

Think I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this one! :cool::):thumb:
 
Thanks.
It's a single trigger. No adjustment except, from what I've read, tapering it more from the V bend to the tip that rests against the sear.

What I just did, which only lightened it down to 9lbs even (unbelievable) is take my dremel with a narrow stone wheel and instead of going from the V to the tip in a straight line by filing, I put a steeper curve in it and a longer section of the 1/16". If you can follow that. I though for sure it would lighten it more than what it did.

I'm wondering if I should just order a new spring and take a chance that it will be lighter...

I can remove the spring and lift up on the lever and everything moves easily. But as soon as that spring is in place I know before putting the lock in the gun that it's still too heavy. Although it is getting easier to put the spring into the lock each time I remove material. The sear tip is so far forward, close to the pivot point, that I know that is playing into this.

It looks like this, except mine doesn't have that slight bend in it.
View attachment 197962
I’ve lightened trigger pull by melting a dot of silver solder on the fire ( full ****) land of the tumbler. Then file it down until it just catches. This takes numerous taking apart and reassembling of the lock. I test by putting 3 1/2 lbs of lead in a can, hang on trigger with paper clip and string. I’ve done this on an old 50 cal smooth bore and 2 1863 muskets.
 
Tried calling The Muzzleloader Shop (the one associated with Loyalist Arms in Arkansas) to see if they had gotten in an 1842 musket that he had mentioned in the previous call. No answer. No joy then either on clarification on their 'canoe gun'. :dunno:

Checked Regimental Quartermaster and it was still $1,754.95 delivered. 😣 The spousal unit would blow 2 gaskets at that.
Called the Team Leader to ask her husband if he had gotten hold of the member that had dropped out for health reasons about his smoothbore. He didn't but offered to sell his original 1842 in match ready condition for $1.2k. Plus, would help me get all the metal parts I've got into a Dunlap Woodcrafting stock. :cool:

Think I'm seeing the light at the end of the tunnel on this one! :cool::):thumb:
And the spousal unit didn't blow a gasket. Lol
 
I’ve lightened trigger pull by melting a dot of silver solder on the fire ( full ****) land of the tumbler. Then file it down until it just catches. This takes numerous taking apart and reassembling of the lock. I test by putting 3 1/2 lbs of lead in a can, hang on trigger with paper clip and string. I’ve done this on an old 50 cal smooth bore and 2 1863 muskets.


I looked very closely at the engagement and I would not want less.
In fact, I read so many threads on shimming the notch so the sear has a shorter distance to travel, that I wonder if something hadn't changed in the design to correct this. The nose of the sear is thin and so is the tumbler's notch on mine.

Good suggestion though. Since apparently the tumbler is not through hardened.
 
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