What Muzzleloading Stuff Did You Do Today?

Muzzleloading Forum

Help Support Muzzleloading Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Oh you know it does... I was just happy to get the action consistently functioning properly. And I consider myself mostly a woodworker so I anxiously moved on to the grips after that. I haven't even started addressing the hammer spring. I mean, it's a pretty blunt model to begin with to say the least. But I'm working off an old parts kits made in Michigan in the 80's (just a bag of plays in the original box too. $18 at an estate sale I saw actually driving to an outdoor range for some pew pew). . I'm still have to finish:
- bevel the ramp/load port as well as the side frame
- crown the barrel
- re-blue the cylinder and barrel
- resurface the brass
- etch or engrave
- make a cross-draw holster and presentation box
...
...THEN I will definitely take your advice on that hammer weight. Was it a difficult process?
Not really if you have a big grinder. Just keep some water near by to dunk the spring to keep it from overheating. Taking off and putting the spring on is a bi atch. The front sight needs to be about 1/4” high to make it hit POA at closer range of 15-25 yards. I will also eventually strip the grips and take off just a hair off the tail the grips and frame have.
 
I installed the trigger and the trigger plate on the long Fowler that I am working on. It has a very nice, light pull of about two pounds.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_0414.jpeg
    IMG_0414.jpeg
    167 KB
  • IMG_0406.jpeg
    IMG_0406.jpeg
    111.8 KB
I just got one of those tumblers from HF…. Loaded up about a pound and a half of .40 cal RB in each side and let’er rip for a few hours. They came out one side looking beautiful, but apparently someone had returned the tumbler after using it (looked perfect coming out of the box) and there was abrasive residue in the other canister. Balls from that side all had a coating of grit and were flat black. I figured I’d throw them in my brass tumbler to clean off that powder and ran them in that for a little while. That didn’t work out so well. Now they have a coating of polishing grit and walnut dust and an interesting red color. Gonna have to melt them down and start over.

Needless to say, the offending canister got a good bath.

The batch on the right are what they look like after tumbling with no media in the canister. They turn a glossy black.

The size stays the same but the sprue area smoothes out nicely.

View attachment 264256
@Terrier try washing the balls in mineral spirits or some other solvent first just like you did the tumbler
 
Back to square one on my tallow candle experiment. I bought REAL beef tallow from the butcher to render down. This should work much, much better. You Tube showed how to render it down on your crock pot which will make everything a whole lot messier. Just one pot to clean. Since it is getting cold tonight, it should be perfect for hardening the rendered fat floating on the top and all the impurities down on the bottom. Tomorrow another rendering to make it pure tallow. Looking forward to the end results. These could also be edible candles you can carry in your pack, cut off a chunk, throw it in the frying pan with your squirrel or rabbit. The candle will serve two purposes...
Ohio Rusty ><>
 

Attachments

  • tallow.jpg
    tallow.jpg
    107.3 KB
That's beautiful work. Did you start with a prepared or board?

I'm curious about the Tung oil. I want to try it but I'm confused about what to buy. There are various versions apparently 😳
I started this one with a semi-prepared stock. Basic shape with the barrel channel cut. For the finish, I use pure tung oil. It doesn't dry tacky as the stuff that has drying chem's added. I apply liberally but not drippy. Let it soak in for 1 hour and wipe off. This routine can be repeated every 12 hours. 3 times is usually enough for maple. 4 for cherry, and woods like walnut, ash and other porous type woods you just have to go with what the wood can absorb. after I'm satisfied with the tung oil, I let it dry for 24 hours, then polish a couple times with BreiWax. Semper Fi.
 
New action camera showed up in the mail yesterday.
Been filming in the rain at the N-SSA & Pioneer Flats shooting events recently &
my regular Canon cameras doesn't like rain.
So......a waterproof DJI Action 3 camera showed up.
Can't wait to get it out tomorrow & film some BP shooting....

View attachment 264416
Getting mighty fancy there Mark!
 
@Terrier try washing the balls in mineral spirits or some other solvent first just like you did the tumbler
I hadn’t thought of that. I just used Dawn and water to wash out the tumbler bin. That didn’t work for the round balls.

I have a variety of solvents. I’ll try that before I melt them down. Thanks for the tip!
 
Back
Top