I rendered deer tallow once and got a huge hunk of candle wax. It would break like paraffin but mixed with some seed oil, it might be OK. Anyway I put the block out for the birds and it was gone so fast my feathered friends made it all winter. But it is a natural thing unlike bore butter that contains petroleum products.
what oil to use?
- Thread starter chuck-ia
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Just thought I'd throw in my own 2 cents here... I've been using neats-foot oil (not the *neat's foot compound*, which contains petroleum distillates). Always seemed to me that it was a cheaper version of mink oil in terms of properties. Seems to work well, but I've only been using it for about a year now. Anyone else use this, or know of reasons not to?
My next batch of lube contains Neats Foot Oil. David is right, please read the label first. They all say Neats Foot but some do contain petroleum.
I haven't fired my Lyman .54 cal GPR in about five years. When I put it away, I cleaned it carefully, then coated the bore heavily with Bore Butter. Haven't checked it since then. But when I took it out of the closet today and ran a few patches down the bore, it was clean as a whistle--not a speck of rust. So I'm stickin' with Bore Butter! YMMV
I haven't fired my Lyman .54 cal GPR in about 5 years. Before I put it away I gave it a good cleaning and put a heavy coat of Bore Butter in the bore. Took it out of the closet today and ran a few patches through it and there was not a speck of rust! Needless to say, I'm a BB fan...
joliver
Way back when I became involved in this thread I asked the question "what are synthetic oils made out of"? Its sort of an opinion that "synthetic motor oil" is not truly synthetic but just regular oil that has been refined in some sort of new way. Can someone please prove me wrong and tell us that it ain't so.
Just google " what are synthetic oils made out of " and it will answer all your questions.
Walkingeagle
54 Cal.
Synthetic oils are made from natural gas liquids.
Walk
Walk
synthetic oils are regular petroleum that has been "cracked" - broken down into it's component elements. Then many of the impurities and carbon molecules and ash creating elements are washed away after which it is reconstructed with what other additives the company may want to add. It is basically oil with most of the "dirt" causing agents removed.
Okay I seem to have gotten my answer. I simply asked what it was made out of, not "How" it was made.
Greenjoytj
54 Cal.
I have used EEZOX for many years because of its superior anti-rust performance.
Lately I've been testing Lubegard Premium Universal lubricant and its been working out well.
https://www.lubegard.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/LG_Premium_Universal_Lubricant_sell-sheet3.pdf
And a report on the technology use in this product.
https://www.lubegard.com/technology/
Lately I've been testing Lubegard Premium Universal lubricant and its been working out well.
https://www.lubegard.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/10/LG_Premium_Universal_Lubricant_sell-sheet3.pdf
And a report on the technology use in this product.
https://www.lubegard.com/technology/
S.Kenton
58 Cal.
Eeek! I’ll stay here in good old Ohio. I live comfortably on my 2 acre plot. My house payment is manageable and I have no neighbors within a half mile of me. I’m 100 yards off the road and have a 150 yard shooting range... I’ll stay put!
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I am entering this discussion pretty late. I have found that 5-in-1 sewing machine oil or jojoba oil works very well in lubricating the lock. I use good old G.I. LSA oil for everything else on the rifle or pistol.
That old stand by, sewing machine oil, has been brought up in the past. And it seems to be well recieved as in "used by many".
WRustyLane
32 Cal.
The last time I shot my flintlock, I cleaned it very well and coated the bore with Bore Butter. I got it out yesterday and ran a few patches down the bore and the patches came out very clean with no sign of rust. So I'll use Bore Butter, not as a lube, but to coat the barrel before I put it up if I'm not planning on shooting it for awhile. I got my Mink Oil tallow from track o' the wolf and will be using that with my pillow ticking for patches. I've got a lot of old patches that were soaked in Bore Butter or Wonder Lube that are too old to use for shooting patches but they will come in handy as cleaning patches. I don't ever throw anything away. When it comes to guns, my wife calls me a "hoarder".
Hoarder, seems i've been called that along with "pack rat".
I wasnt aware of Bore Butter being a rust preventive, I just thought of it as a lube.
Greenjoytj
54 Cal.
I think the brown colour is the Ballistol oxidizing and quiet possibly continuing to lift embedded fouling.
As for the Mobile 1 synthetic any oil is better than none I would choose the lightest most waterest grade for its ability to penetrate into micro pours and scratches in the steel.
I would prefer to use an oil with a good anti corrosion additive.
I believe petroleum based oils work very well with BP, just don’t expect it to flush away with water you must use a light petroleum based solvent to clean out the fouling after the initial water flushing that removes the bulk of the carbon fouling. Dry out the water then use Hoppe’s #9, or other light petroleum distillate like Zippo lighter fuel. These light solvent will dissolve the cooked on petroleum oils.
I havent heard of the lighter fluid treatment, wouldn't just plain old rubbing alcohol work?
Sounds good, I'll think of ya when I am sitting in the shade after splittin some wood, sippin on some iced tea and cooling off and NOT sweating. Ya see, we pay for it (poverty with a view) but our shade works!!
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