dan101955
32 Cal.
I use t/c bore butter. Want to change but not sure what I should use?
Dan
Dan
What patch lube should I use for my patches?
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I generally us spit patches if I'm shooting targets. I've also used the T/C stuff along with a number of others including Hoppes #9 black powder solvent. I will use some type of greased patch when hunting, especially if the gun will remain loaded for more than a day. Many here use Dutch's method with great success.
nwtradegun
50 Cal.
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i use ox yoke pre-lubed patches.
Black Hand
Cannon
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I started with Bore butter and used it for 10+ years. Now I use Bear grease exclusively.
Do you want a historically-correct lube, an over-priced lube that is 98% water, a magic lube (that is probably 98% water) or something that will work and not be ridiculously expensive?
Do you want a historically-correct lube, an over-priced lube that is 98% water, a magic lube (that is probably 98% water) or something that will work and not be ridiculously expensive?
dan101955 said:
Hoppes #9 black powder solvent X2 :grin: It is the only thing I ever used before Dutch System (which is better). With Hoppes no swabbing between shots BUT a target lube mailnly, load wet and it swab the bore with the crud on top of each ball and a clean barrel each shot. Watch for crud ring, clean light after 10-15 rounds as needed.
Get yer Dutch system though....tighten yer groups fer sure.
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Bear grease :thumbsup:
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Spit for targets, plinking and squirrels...Otherwise I use a mixture of beeswax and olive oil...
The secret is getting the right amount of lube on your patches....too much lube is a bad thing.
Muzzleloading is a "maker" sport....try making your own. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/
The secret is getting the right amount of lube on your patches....too much lube is a bad thing.
Muzzleloading is a "maker" sport....try making your own. http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/203261/
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The patch material and thickness is more important than the lube. But lube is important too.
Another vote for hope's #9. But, I use dutch shoultz system as well.
Another vote for hope's #9. But, I use dutch shoultz system as well.
I never had access to bear Grease. What surprised me was that in experiments to eliminate vertical strings of hits on target I found that LESS slick the lube, the tighter the group..
I hadlong belived in Slicker was better but now believe that a little resistance before movement .
Dutch
I hadlong belived in Slicker was better but now believe that a little resistance before movement .
Dutch
I've used Oxyoke 1000 Plus for many yrs now and it suits my needs.....even in the winter when hunting snowshoes. Heard that a waxy lube becomes too hard at below zero temps, but what's forgotten is that the hot gases melt the lube.
I use a loading block for all my hunting and the thinner lubes dry out.....Fred
I use a loading block for all my hunting and the thinner lubes dry out.....Fred
I use Dutch's recommended Ballistol and water mixture.
I also swab between each shot with his recommended "dry patch" Moose Milk formula containing Ballistol.
I also swab between each shot with his recommended "dry patch" Moose Milk formula containing Ballistol.
Bore Butter at the range.
Caster oil when I hunt on the first shot. If I need to reload in the field, just enough spit to get the ball down the barrel.
Bore butter shouldn't sit in a barrel for to long. The stuff is great at the bench but stinks for long term storage. I won't leave BB in my gun longer than 2 days.
Caster oil when I hunt on the first shot. If I need to reload in the field, just enough spit to get the ball down the barrel.
Bore butter shouldn't sit in a barrel for to long. The stuff is great at the bench but stinks for long term storage. I won't leave BB in my gun longer than 2 days.
hanshi
Cannon
I've used everything from spit patch to Crisco and many more. But now I use TOTW mink oil for hunting and Hoppes #9 or mink oil everywhere else.
I still like Stumpkillers "Moose Juice".
It provides good lubrication and it protects the barrel.
It's easy to make after you get the ingredients and lasts for years if it is kept in a sealed container.
Here's a link to how to make it.
MOOSE JUICE
It provides good lubrication and it protects the barrel.
It's easy to make after you get the ingredients and lasts for years if it is kept in a sealed container.
Here's a link to how to make it.
MOOSE JUICE
I sort of have to pick on the word "swab". which seems to imply a lot of scabbing activity. I prefer "wipe" which is just quick in and out to remove the soft residue left after ech shot.
Swabbing sort of envisions a bunch of sailors with mops.
Dutch
Swabbing sort of envisions a bunch of sailors with mops.
Dutch
I am sure there there are other lubes as effective as what I came up with. But after I learned there was such a thing as too slick I came up with a system that allows you to regulate how slick or not slick each patch is and also so that eat patch was the same a every other patch in the strip.
When I had gotten the left to right centering of my hits I wa getting some higher and some lower creating a vertical string of hits. After employing my "Dry Patc" system the vertical strings were a thing of the past./
Dutch Schoultz
When I had gotten the left to right centering of my hits I wa getting some higher and some lower creating a vertical string of hits. After employing my "Dry Patc" system the vertical strings were a thing of the past./
Dutch Schoultz
I prattle at length about the variables we must learn that each rifle barrel will like.
Powder, kind, bramd, grain size amount
Patching compressed thivknes
ball = size weight
All that stuff. there is one more variable that affects users or my Alleged "Dry" patch Ssytem and that is the variable caused by how tightly you hold the strip of material you have just soaked in the mix of Ballistol and water.
Percy Limpwrist might not squeeze as tight as Bear Hand Bob so the amount of the oil and water mixture that is left in the strip for drying.
That is why one person finds the 6 to 1 mix and another will end up with the 7 to 1 mix.
I had to assume that each person would strip all of his patching using the same squeeze pressure for each of his strips so that each would end up with the same amount of oil (Ballistol) in each strip.
One outraged experimenter was having chaotic results with some of his patches being appreciable oilier than others.
Investigation showed us that he dried his soaked and stripped patches over a metal clothes line which of course allowed the still liquid solution in each cloth strip to seep down to the lower ends oof the cloth.
They should be allowed to evaporate the water while lying on a flat horizontal no absorptive surface like a sink countertop if you're not married . I used a flat metal TV casing.
The stripping seems to be pretty standard as practiced as most end up with the 7 or 8 to 1 mix snf only a few in the 6 to 1 Mix.
/
Dutch Schoultz not necessarily nit pit picking in this case
Powder, kind, bramd, grain size amount
Patching compressed thivknes
ball = size weight
All that stuff. there is one more variable that affects users or my Alleged "Dry" patch Ssytem and that is the variable caused by how tightly you hold the strip of material you have just soaked in the mix of Ballistol and water.
Percy Limpwrist might not squeeze as tight as Bear Hand Bob so the amount of the oil and water mixture that is left in the strip for drying.
That is why one person finds the 6 to 1 mix and another will end up with the 7 to 1 mix.
I had to assume that each person would strip all of his patching using the same squeeze pressure for each of his strips so that each would end up with the same amount of oil (Ballistol) in each strip.
One outraged experimenter was having chaotic results with some of his patches being appreciable oilier than others.
Investigation showed us that he dried his soaked and stripped patches over a metal clothes line which of course allowed the still liquid solution in each cloth strip to seep down to the lower ends oof the cloth.
They should be allowed to evaporate the water while lying on a flat horizontal no absorptive surface like a sink countertop if you're not married . I used a flat metal TV casing.
The stripping seems to be pretty standard as practiced as most end up with the 7 or 8 to 1 mix snf only a few in the 6 to 1 Mix.
/
Dutch Schoultz not necessarily nit pit picking in this case
marsh trapper
45 Cal.
i use mink oil with great results
I used olive oil for a long time and was happy with it. I would use a c-clamp and a pipe to squeeze out all the excess and end up with a lightly lubricated patch that seemed to work well.
I've recently gone the way of Dutch's system, and am experiencing my best accuracy to date. I haven't yet done enough experimenting to maximize the potential. I've used varying charges of FFFg, and 3 different patch thicknesses..but haven't tried any other ratios of water/lube.
Still no problem making one ragged hole at 50 yards. Need to go out to 100 to dial in any further.
I've recently gone the way of Dutch's system, and am experiencing my best accuracy to date. I haven't yet done enough experimenting to maximize the potential. I've used varying charges of FFFg, and 3 different patch thicknesses..but haven't tried any other ratios of water/lube.
Still no problem making one ragged hole at 50 yards. Need to go out to 100 to dial in any further.
