What should I use to polish and smooth tumbler and lock pieces?

[Beaverman2]

I've been using these for a few years on lock parts and they work very well

https://www.amazon.com/Sharpening-S...887&sprefix=sharpening+stones,aps,242&sr=8-24

 

[laagamer]

Thank you guys so much for all the helpful tips! I really appreciate it!

I've never done metal work before.

Just douse everything in mineral oil before I go at it?

 

[laagamer]

Yo guys check this out! GREAT POST

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=47002.0

 

[laagamer]

Good tidbits in this one as well!

https://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/threads/building-a-chambers-little-fellas-rifle.110688/

 

[sturmkatze]

Been told I need to "stone" my lock pieces, to remove any machine markings and smooth them out. Make everything work better.

"Don't take off any metal, but get them smooth as a baby's bottom."

Okay, so once I figure how to take the lock apart and put it back together, what's the best tool for this?

I really don't want to use a wet stone or whatever. Can't I just use high grit sandpaper or a metal file?

Also, when I remove the mainspring with a mainspring vice, can I take the vice off and completely remove tension on the spring?

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

“Been told”… by who? Don’t listen to internet advice — you get what you pay for there. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you can easily eff up your lock. Find a black powder gunsmith. There are places like the Flintlock Doctor that can do it for you.

 

[Reno]

The stones will work. You need to use caution and be very careful to just polish and not remove anything. That anything is potentially any hardening of the internals that has been done. The depth of that hardening is on the surface.
Be very careful.
If it were me, I’d wear it in. You can screw up a lock pretty fast if you do this wrong.

 

[laagamer]

“Been told”… by who? Don’t listen to internet advice — you get what you pay for there. If you don’t know what you’re doing, you can easily eff up your lock. Find a black powder gunsmith. There are places like the Flintlock Doctor that can do it for you.

I was told that by my mentor in my muzzloading group I shoot with.

And if I mess up the lock, I'll just buy another one. It's a cheap Traditions Deerhunter.

I'm seriously a bit confused why people keep treating this like I'm attempting to create nuclear fission in my garage...

 

[Beaverman2]

I was told that by my mentor in my muzzloading group I shoot with.

And if I mess up the lock, I'll just buy another one. It's a cheap Traditions Deerhunter.

I'm seriously a bit confused why people keep treating this like I'm attempting to create nuclear fission in my garage...

I'm still seriously a bit confused why people still use bore butter or anything like it for patch lube! some guys just don't have the skill, confidence or cojones to attempt even taking the lock apart, hell there are shooters that have never seen the backside of a lock!

 

[waksupi]

I use a small diamond lap to do the smoothing. Try to find someone local who knows how to do it. People get too aggressive and screw up the angles.

 

[longcruise]

I think the linked tutorial by Rich Pierce covers it pretty well. Rich is not just some unknown and unverified poster.

 

[ZUG]

Whether you use stones or silicone carbide paper backed by a ridged piece of metal is to remember to keep the abrasive square to the surface don't round over flat surfaces and go slowly - check often. You will do fine and like you say this is the best way to learn - go for it

 

[ColonialRifleSmith]

Been told I need to "stone" my lock pieces, to remove any machine markings and smooth them out. Make everything work better.

"Don't take off any metal, but get them smooth as a baby's bottom."

Okay, so once I figure how to take the lock apart and put it back together, what's the best tool for this?

I really don't want to use a wet stone or whatever. Can't I just use high grit sandpaper or a metal file?

Also, when I remove the mainspring with a mainspring vice, can I take the vice off and completely remove tension on the spring?

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

I use a Dremel with a 240-grit flap wheel. Semper Fi.

 

[bptactical]

I use a Dremel with a 240-grit flap wheel. Semper Fi.

Spoken like a true Marine!

 

[Rudyard]

I PM ed you re the 95th you didn't reply .I mistakenly though my association with that Reenactment Regiment and my camping amongst them at Waterloo Pre 'Sharpe' might elicit some response, but seemingly not.
Rudyard

 

[laagamer]

I PM ed you re the 95th you didn't reply .I mistakenly though my association with that Reenactment Regiment and my camping amongst them at Waterloo Pre 'Sharpe' might elicit some response, but seemingly not.
Rudyard

Apologies, friend. I saw your message. That was very interesting! Thank you for reaching out!

 

[Rudyard]

I see OK you are quite welcome I thought you would like that information your keenness shone out.
My reply re the lock is more .OTT but perhaps amusing as I was down in India struggling to get stuff made & old rifles rescued from that wretched climate " Youth was cheap wherefore we sold it" ,Gold was good we hoped to hold it , And today we know the fullness of our gains." from Kipling's 'Xmas in India ' seemed fitting .
Regards Rudyard

PS Seems like they pulled the Gangee's responce pity , it was a trifle tongue in cheek but true' I was there long enough to know that town ,The Birmingham of India Cawnpore Perhaps they thought it off Topic ? Seemed pertain ant to me .
Regards Rudyard

PS My Gangee's piece re surfaced then disappeared again bit weird Musical posts ?
Rudyard

 

[BuffaloSoldier]

Just remember you take apart A,B,C...and you reassemble reverse. It makes things so much easier. I won't bore you with how I learned that critical fact!

 

[laagamer]

Just remember you take apart A,B,C...and you reassemble reverse. It makes things so much easier. I won't bore you with how I learned that critical fact!

Thank you! This seems like a very good tip!

 

[M. De Land]

Been told I need to "stone" my lock pieces, to remove any machine markings and smooth them out. Make everything work better.

"Don't take off any metal, but get them smooth as a baby's bottom."

Okay, so once I figure how to take the lock apart and put it back together, what's the best tool for this?

I really don't want to use a wet stone or whatever. Can't I just use high grit sandpaper or a metal file?

Also, when I remove the mainspring with a mainspring vice, can I take the vice off and completely remove tension on the spring?

Thanks for the advice, fellas!

Smoothing anything is removing metal to some extent. Bearing surfaces need to mate with each other they don't need to be hand smoothed once fit, just lubed. Non-bearing surfaces that don't support a necessary height/thickness dimension, can be shined as much as one wants without harm to function although aesthetics may suffer .
Spring vices are a wonderful tool and yet I don't own or have ever found a need to own one. I have successfully remove (and never broken) leaf and V springs for nearly 45 years on all manor of fire arm with hawk billed vice grips and a leather pad.

 

[M. De Land]

Just remember you take apart A,B,C...and you reassemble reverse. It makes things so much easier. I won't bore you with how I learned that critical fact!

I always get out my digital camera and take a few shots of a lock or mechanism interior before disassembly. It's saved my bacon more than once. I remember in particular a German Drilling I had to repair the action on that was much like a Swiss watch in it's interior.