What to do? How to fix?

[Soupbone]

Finishing my kibler stock. This blemish is vexing me. How do i seal it or stop it from growing? I've tried to sand it flat, but the edge is growing. Still snags your finger when

you brush across it. It grabs at anything rubbed across it too. Any help appreciated. Thanks again for all and any help.
Stew

 

[david w]

I would call Jim and see what he suggests.

 

[R Ellis]

clear epoxy

 

[Eric Krewson]

If it were me I would put a puddle of superglue over the splinter, let it set up and file the stock down to is original contour. It looks like your stock as some finish on it, superglue will melt some finishes but works the best on bare wood.

 

[deerstalkert]

as Eric says.
sanding without cementing the jag down just releases the natural bond and lets that jag to spring up more.
glue the sucker and then sand to finish. if you are able to get some sanding dust you can blend it with a fill coat of glue, after having bonded the tear back with the underlaying wood. can come out invisible
hope this makes sense. today is monday and my brain usually takes monday's off!.

 

[Soupbone]

Thanks all. I didn't notice this until i put the aqua fortis on it and some maple stain and was lightly going over it with steel wool. It snagged it. I'll

 

[colimr]

Take 2 quilt pins or fine sewing pins and push them under enough to carefully lift the splinter push super glue "under" the splinter. Remove pins wrap heavy rubber bands to hold splinter down until dry. Apply more super glue in the low spot at the tip of the splinter let dry continue to fill until low spot is filled enough to sand smooth. no matter what,you need to get the splinter glued under the splinter to the base wood or the splinter will continue to lift . juts my experience and 2 cents

 

[Flintandsteel]

IMHO, glue in this case, is a temporary fix.

Scrape, sand it out. You will of course have to reduce the entire wrist evenly. Not a big deal. Then finish as usual.

 

[rchas]

IMHO, glue in this case, is a temporary fix.

I agree. The only way I have ever gotten rid of those annoying cracks is to cut to solid wood below it with a very sharp chisel, then start over with finishing

 

[Soupbone]

Uggh. I'm a wood butcher, ill try the CA glue thing first. Im not so sure of myself for slimming the whole wrist. Thanks again for all the.

 

[Fitzhugh Williams]

You might try filling it with a little hide glue.

 

[erhunter]

Before you go further I would call Jim also. He seems to stand behind his products and might even send a new stock?

 

[Pukka Bundook]

Super glue,
then after finishing, rub the area with beeswax, and polish it down with a buff stick.

 

[Brokenbear]

Colimr has it exactly right ..the only additional thing I would add is at the last fill with CA ..apply the CA and while WET ..sand it to bring in the sand dust as color and fill ..allow and finish sand after dry (use 220 grit while wet)
I know the grit seems coarse but it fills quickly and becomes the perfect "trowel" to smooth the area
I cannot say what the appearance will be since you have stain and finish already applied but used on bare wood this process will absolutely make the area invisible to touch and see

Bear

 

[Tn poor boy]

Here what iv done in past put stain on it then put super glue then rape with painter tape then next day remove tape manure glue down with knife restain put finsh and done

 

[Tenring]

I had a Breach / Tang issue once on a new build 50 cal. Early bucks county when I lifted the barrel almost out of the channel the tang took a piece of the side inlet 1/2 inch slither almost out, I stoped put a drop of super jet under the slither rested it back into place and never took the barrel out again. The problem I was having was the wood around the tang swelled and kinda was pushing the tang up so to speak , the inlet was to tight my bad. But that’s my splinter dilemma. My ex brother in law has that rifle now.LOL

 

[Clint Meier]

I'd use super glue! There are generally three viscosities of super glue available, thin, medium and thick. (Hobby Lobby has all three.) For this I'd use the thin, it is as thin as water, so be very careful using it because I have glued my fingers together with it many times. Find a big sewing needle with an eye that will hold about 1 drop of glue, put one drop of glue in the eye while NOT holding the needle over the wood, then touch the eye to the wood to transfer the glue. You might try practicing a few glue drop trials on a wood scrap before proceeding on your stock! Don't try to apply the glue from the spout directly to the wood, you'll get way too much and it will run down the wood causing a big mess. The glue is so thin that it runs into the finest cracks (I've applied it to a small knot on one side of a butt stock and had it run out on the other side), with no need to lift the splinter with small needles to get the glue under there. In small drops it dries in a minute or two, and if desired, the splinter can be held down into place with the eye-end of the needle. Reapply once dry to further fill any remaining void, adding sanding dust if desired. Sand and stain/spot refinish as needed. Good luck, sir!

 

[ronaldrothb49]

I would put an inlay over it

 

[Hatman/2nd line]

Sand some wood from the stock where it won't show or other wise hurt the stock and use some Titebond glue and mix a slury of it and smear over the area. After it dries sand to shape. Use Titebond not epoxy, Titebond allows a stain not so with epoxy.

 

[springfield art]

I would call Jim and see what he suggests.

Yeah, he may even replace it! Any patching will always show up as a blemish. Good luck.