What tool(s) do you use to engrave metal?

[frenchymanny]

Amazing work, very professional :thumbsup:

Manny

 

[Zonie]

Very nice work wick!

A long time ago, I learned that a graver can be a dangerous tool in the hands of an amateur (like me).

The following photo is the second rifle I put together. It is a Reading and I tried to engrave the patchbox and inlays with the following results:

After finishing it, I told myself, "Well, some of the old originals weren't done much better", but it has taken me a long time to get used to looking at it. After 12 years, I actually kinda like it.


I've heard some folks who know what their talking about say things like, "Many a nice gun has been spoiled by someone who attempted to engrave their parts without knowing what they were doing. Better to leave it plain than to louse it up with shoddy work."

I have learned that like many things, it's not as easy as it looks.
I also know that to do fine engraving takes the eye of an artist and an ability to draw accurately and neatly.
It takes the ability to not only see what looks right and what doesn't but to correct anything that isn't right before the first small scratch is made.

Someday, I may try my hand at engraving again but in the meantime I'll put my efforts into making the basic gun as well as I know how.

 

[qtrhrs7]

I would have to say that is much more than passable for a first attempt!!

 

[LRB]

JD, I will try to get a photo or two of the graver jig today. They only cost around $35.oo, to $40.00 last I saw. I want to get another so I can keep one set for the graver face, and do the heel with the other. I have had pretty good luck sharpening the heel free hand, but I know it would be better in the jig.

 

[LRB]

Here you go JD. In real use, I have the base on a piece of oiled plastic. The jig is moved left and right over the stone. I then lay a piece of 400 grit paper on the stone to smooth it more, then top it off with 600 grit going fore, and aft. I free hand the heel. The graver is square, but of course the point is on it in the diamond angle, so I hold it square to the stone, ect., raised to the angle I like, and work one side, flip it over, and match that side to the other. Heels need to be tiny. No more than the depth you are cutting, or not much more. Too much heel will cause jagged edges on a curve. .015, to .020, is normally plenty. Pro's use a jigged power system, and sharpen with super fine diamond wheels, much sharper than I go with, but the 600 grit is enough for what I do. I may try some 1200 grit paper on my next project, just to see how much difference it really makes.

 

[dgb]

where would one find a jig like that one?
I am very bad at sharpening!!!!!!!!!!!
dgb

 

[LRB]

www.fdjtool.com
I have seen them offered elsewhere, but cannot remember just where. This company also has good gravers, and graver supplies in general.

 

[fitter]

You might try diamond hones. You can get them in
600 (fine) and 1200 (extra fine). Much faster than coventional stone.I use them with the Crocker
fixture, then a black Arkansas followed by a piece of leather. I do the heel by hand with a round rod as per Lynton Mckenzie.I learned that it must be very tiny or you can't do a curve.
http://www.eze-lap.com/index.html

 

[Roy]

I see knife handles :haha:

Wick does some beautiful work :thumbsup: and knows more than what he thinks :grin:

 

[J.D.]

I see knife handles :haha:

Wick does some beautiful work :thumbsup: and knows more than what he thinks :grin:

You becha.

Thanks Wick, I 'm a visual learner and gotta have pictures, so those photos help allot.

 

[wulf]

Would you do an elaborate engraving like he does
and leave the screw heads plain??? I don't.

 

[oldarmy]

Wick,
What gravers would you recommend for a beginner?
It's rather confusing. There are SO many out there.
Are there a couple of them that do 80% of the work?
Regards
Mike