If you haven't shot a flintlock, you simply can't understand the feelings from reading words alone. When I first started shooting my flintlock, I had a lot of help learning the "Tricks" from a very good friend, and tracking buddy. I actually taught him about Caplocks, and getting them to shoot right!
Yes, you can get malfunctions from both flint and cap guns. But, there are simply many more things that can go wrong with a flintlock.
I knew I had " Arrived", when another good friend, and club member, walked all the way down the covered firing line at my club to ask me when I switched back to shooting percussion guns ???
I pointed to my rifle, resting against the loading bench, and to the flintlock on it, and asked him what he was talking about? He was stunned, and insisted that I show him how I load my flintlock to get it to "fire so fast". I did, and had him stand to the rear-left of me so he could see the action work, and the gun fire, without risking being struck by flint chips, or fire from the priming powder. He claimed my gun fired before the hammer completed its fall. He watched my next shot, and said it happened again.
He walked away muttering to himself, --about now having seen everything, and learning something he didn't know before.
I think he exaggerates, :shocked2: but I tune my flintlocks, so that the frizzen opens quickly, and gets out of the way of the sparks being thrown down into the priming powder in the flash pan. Not every flintlock shooter tunes his lock my way, nor achieves these results. I used everything I learned from my friend, and everything I ever learned by reading about flintlocks, and tuning flintlocks, to make my lock fire as fast as possible.
You can turn my flintlock upside down, and fire it, as the sparks get to the powder before gravity can pull the powder away from the pan and TH. A lot of well-tuned locks can do this, however. Its a standard test used by lock "tuners" to test the quality of their work.
I set up my locks so that the edge of the flint strikes at a 60 degree angle to the face of the frizzen, 1/3 of the way down from the top of the frizzen. If the cock and the frizzen are spaced properly apart, the frizzen pops open before the flint moves down another 1/3 of the length(height) of the frizzen. I lighten frizzen springs, so they don't eat flints, and don't slow the opening of the frizzen when sparks are produced. I like a frizzen spring that puts no more than 1.5 lbs. of tension on the frizzen.
I also do some reshaping of my V-spring- mainspring, and the horn on the front of the tumbler, to accelerate the forward movement of the flint as the cock comes over vertical, and begins to fall downwards towards the frizzen. This allows me to lighten the mainspring to about ten pounds of tension, producing plenty of sparks, while speeding up so slightly the timing of the lock. I believe this combination of "tuning" techniques is why my friend believed that my gun fires before the hammer finishes falling.
I am still skeptical about the issue, and have discussed this in person, and by PT with Larry Pletcher, our resident expert( Pletch) at timing flintlocks. The only way to actually test what my friend observed when my lock fired, is to use time lapse photograph taken from the side of the lock as it is fired, and then measure, frame by frame, the time involved for the cock to finish its fall, and compare that to the time when the main charge is ignited- not when the ball comes out the muzzle. So far, we have not set up such a test procedure to try this.
The fact that you can time a flintlock so these are even close questions surprises all those people whose only knowledge about flintlocks came from watching Fess Parker, as Daniel Boone, firing his gun on his TV show. Hollywood didn't know anything about flintlocks, so the opening scene showed his gun with a substantial delay before the main charge fired.
I still get arguments from some people on this forum that THIS IS THE WAY A FLINTLOCK should be fired. After examining some original flintlock actions what were as light as my own, I don't believe this was case, save with the military muskets in most cases. Privately-owned sporting and hunting rifles and smooth bores were tuned, for the most part, Although you do see a lot of poor trigger pulls, and untuned actions when the early breechloaders came on the scene. You paid very good money to buy a gun- muzzle loader, or breech loader-- with a properly tuned lock, in the second half of the 19th century.
So, that is why trying to describe the feeling of shooting a finely made, and tuned flintlock to someone who has never fired one is so difficult to do. Its the difference between watching an exotic dancer and a stripper: Once you have seen an Exotic Dancer perform, you will never mistake a stripper for an exotic dancer. Its the difference between making love to someone who loves you, and just screwing someone who says "yes". :hmm: :shocked2: :hatsoff:
I have nothing but respect for percussion guns. I have no complaints against your T/C rifle at all. Of the commercially produced rifles, these are some of the best made.
What amuses me is how many percussion shooters have NO clue what causes problems in their locks, and rifles, and then have no clue how to fix the problems. They really do expect to take a gun out of the box, load it with whatever powder the clerk hustled them to buy, run some kind of projectile down the barrel, and go shoot a deer!
I have to say, here, that I am unimpressed with the factory booklets provided with new guns, and the information the factory gives about cleaning their guns, and setting them up properly to fire.
NOT that many buyers ever actually READ those booklets! :shocked2: But, you would think the factory would do a better job of writing instructions there, for no other reasons than to make their lawyers happy, and to have the satisfaction of saying to the buyers, " We told you what to do that on page____ in the booklet that came with the gun." :idunno: :thumbsup: