What's the best way to waterproof a Cow's Knee ?

[Are. M.]

Obenauf's Heavy Duty LP. It comes in a back can with gold writing. They also make an oil that works great too. I use it on my Redwings to keep the leather from cracking at the bend and to maintain the outer's waterproofing. I've used it on old, dry, cracking leather too. After a couple of applications, the leather is almost back to normal.

 

[toot]

BEES WAX CUT WITH VOO. works every time!

 

[BadDaditood]

BEES WAX CUT WITH VOO. works every time!

EVOO ;-)

 

[GriscomRun]

Thanks everybody ! Let's close this out.

 

[smo]

Just like Ol Dan’l. did….

Not that that matter either.

Sno- seal is a great product as I mentioned above.
But wax straight from the the bee would be more traditional I think.

Again, not that it matters… too some maybe, but not others.

 

[Reno]

I have rendered deer fat down and then added beeswax. I blend them at 50/50. I wZrn the leather up a bit and then apply. You can also heat up the blend snd brush that in.
I would not do that in the kitchen. It can smell a bit.

 

[Two Feathers]

Howdy:
FWIW, I use a custom mix of Bees wax, Paraffin, and Mineral oil. I melt it, brush it on, then hit it lightly with mt heat gun (on the low setting) until all the congealed waxes liquefy and soak into the leather.
That's worked for me for 40+ years, but here again, just my opinion. There's smarter guys here than me.
God bless:
Two Feathers

 

[Brokennock]

The thing with using a water-repellent with a lot of wax, for this application, is that the "cow's knee," needs to remain supple and flexible. I get a pretty good seal around the barrel and front stock, by adding a smear of chapstick consistency patch lube mixture around the spot the front of the cow's knee will wrap. Then wrapping it tightly around that spot with the leather attachment thongs. I could not do this with thick or very stiff leather.

 

[David Veale]

Here's my .02.... I've used Sno-seal on boots (and just about every other product made for the same purpose) for years as a professional forester and avid mountaineer, hunter, etc. I've since graduated to making my own (mostly because I keep bees and like using our own wax), and here's the reasoning you can use as a guide if you're so inclined.
The harder/stiffer the leather, the harder the compound you can use with it. Harder compounds (i.e. higher wax content) are generally preferable and last longer than softer compounds imho. With soft garment type leathers, I would just use an oil (neat's foot or more expensive mink). With harder veg-tan type leathers, you can use a greater proportion of beeswax, as they won't flex as much and break down the wax the way softer leathers will.

My favorite mix at the moment is about a 5:1 ratio of neat's foot to beeswax, with about 5-10% pine tar. The latter adds mold resistance -- something for which I have a new-found appreciation since moving from the wet PNW to the humid midwest. This will soak into the leather nicely if you heat it. The best way I've found is to use our electric dehydrator, which produces a nice even heat that doesn't risk cooking the leather.

If you have no interest in making your own, I believe my formula is very similar to Huberd's boot grease, which you can find online if not locally.

 

[oldwood]

Leather grease and hair dryer. The leather dressing needs to be "in the leather" , not on the leather.Heat makes the dressing go into the leather........oldwood

 

[Brokennock]

Here's my .02.... I've used Sno-seal on boots (and just about every other product made for the same purpose) for years as a professional forester and avid mountaineer, hunter, etc. I've since graduated to making my own (mostly because I keep bees and like using our own wax), and here's the reasoning you can use as a guide if you're so inclined.
The harder/stiffer the leather, the harder the compound you can use with it. Harder compounds (i.e. higher wax content) are generally preferable and last longer than softer compounds imho. With soft garment type leathers, I would just use an oil (neat's foot or more expensive mink). With harder veg-tan type leathers, you can use a greater proportion of beeswax, as they won't flex as much and break down the wax the way softer leathers will.

My favorite mix at the moment is about a 5:1 ratio of neat's foot to beeswax, with about 5-10% pine tar. The latter adds mold resistance -- something for which I have a new-found appreciation since moving from the wet PNW to the humid midwest. This will soak into the leather nicely if you heat it. The best way I've found is to use our electric dehydrator, which produces a nice even heat that doesn't risk cooking the leather.

If you have no interest in making your own, I believe my formula is very similar to Huberd's boot grease, which you can find online if not locally.

Way, WAY, too logical. This make too much sense. Lol.

 

[OhioHawkeye]

I've used snow seal. I also have used just bear grease, just ballistol, just olive oil....
best seems to be the snow seal or my own version of ballistol and beeswax.
Same as I use on my shoes, boots and moccasins.
here is my pattern I don't recall where I grabbed the original from,It is the Rifleman's pattern.
I adjusted forsize for the larger 12, 11 and 10 gage muskets

 

[RayjHindle]

Very timely topic for me, since I’m just getting around to making one! Thanks for all the info!

 

[deerstalkert]

made this one from elk hide yesterday. soaked it with melted beeswax followed by ballistol heated the whole with hair drier on high until the inside started to glisten.

 

[Howard Pippin]

I would like your opinions on the best way / substance / coating to waterproof my cow's knee.
Thanks for your input.

some years ago I needed to waterproof a canvas, and ran across an old-time formula of dissolving 1 pound of paraffin wax in 1 quart of kerosene. I updated that to 1 quart of parts cleaner solvent. You have to do so with a double boiler type operation, and heat the solvent or kerosene, very carefully, and the wax will dissolve in it. You have to painted on with a paintbrush when it's warm or hot, the solvent evaporates, the wax waterproofs, and it doesn't change color or anything but it will sure shed water. Needless to say paraffin does burn if that is a problem. I have used it on many things since that time, including cardboard or just a board and it really waterproofs.
Squint

 

[Brokennock]

I've used snow seal. I also have used just bear grease, just ballistol, just olive oil....
best seems to be the snow seal or my own version of ballistol and beeswax.
Same as I use on my shoes, boots and moccasins.
here is my pattern I don't recall where I grabbed the original from,It is the Rifleman's pattern.
I adjusted forsize for the larger 12, 11 and 10 gage muskets

I use this pattern but found I have to expand it by at least an inch and a half, maybe 2 inches in length even. Expand the cut our triangles accordingly.
For my Fusil des Chase it just wasn't long or tall enough. At the size given, it just barely makes it for my TVM Early Virginia with large Siler lock.

 

[tom_in_vt]

I’d go bees wax or snow seal. Anyone have a reason not to use mink oil or bear grease?

 

[Eddie Southgate]

Hip Waders .

 

[The Crisco Kid]

Shoot a nauga. Make the cows knee out of the nauga hide.

 

[springfield art]

I'm not sure, but, be careful, they kick

Buy him/her some fishing waders!