Reel Creel...I just use a wonder wad (comes lightly greased) over powder. There are many methods people prefer. Obviously the chamber should be dry when loading powder then shove the wad in, then the ball. Good to go.
just my 2 cents.
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just my 2 cents.
The best way to prevent chain fires (the firing chamber setting off adjacent chambers) is a properly fitting soft lead ball that is 0.005" oversized with respect to the chamber mouth and properly sized percussion caps on the nipples. The grease over the chambers results in a splattering of grease all over the front of the revolver and the recoil and flash from the shooting will remove the grease anyway. It may soften the fouling, but nothing a quick wipe with a handy rag can't do as well.
The wonder wad between powder and ball as @Zulch uses can provide another barrier to adjacent chamber chain fires but performs well as a filler to locate the ball near the mouth of the chamber and will help to apply some lubricant to the barrel as the revolver is fired. Corn meal or cream of wheat over the powder does much the same function.
Patched round ball is best reserved for single shot and not to be used in a revolver.
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Henry Miles
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As stated above, proper size balls and tight fitting caps prevent chain fires. NEVER pinch caps to make them fit better. It creates a gap for hot gas and flame to enter the adjacent chambers. There are slow-motion videos available showing how much more flame and gas occur at the rear of the cylinder as compared to the cylinder gap.
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Made by Pietta, I wouldn’t hesitate to buy at the right price. I want a brass framed 1851 just because. I load light anyway.
Wildrangeringreen
40 Cal
No, colt didn't recommend it (being grease over the chambers) with loose balls or bullets. Most of the grease guys put over the chambers just gets blown all over the gun and makes a nasty, greasy mess. Per US Army standards, bullets in cartridges do get dipped in paraffin or beeswax+grease lube. Wads take up powder space and I've found no use for them (other than as a filler for light charges, but there cheaper mediums for that). Least that's how I do it.
Provided you have properly sized projectiles (larger than the chamber mouths), chainfires from the front don't really happen. What is most important is properly fitting caps and cones. If they are too loose or way too tight, the caps can fall off way too easily, and that direct open passageway to the powder charge (right next to the chamber being fired) is the #1 cause of chainfires.
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I am from the side of the isle that is convinced that most chain fires are caused by crappy cap/nipple seal.
I only seal my chambers as I find it makes it easier to clean the powder residue and force of habit. I am much more concerned that the caps fit the nipples well.
Reel Creel
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This is good stuff too. I have a bunch of #11 caps and what you guys are saying is I need to make sure I #11 nipples. I bought some Horneady .44cal balls that are .454 per there book and one other on here said. I do have some wads I picked up from cabalas that are thick and have some sort of lube on them. The caps seem to be hard to find and the ones you do find are way over priced. I do like the RWS caps for my long guns and was looking for those things in a #10 or 10.75 but there sold out to. I live in Beaverton Oregon, whos in this neck of the woods and would like to go shooting?
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