When will I be strong enough to push RB down a Plains .54 single shot pistol?

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I had to use a ball starter with hammer, then used a hammer with the provided ramrod. I am having problems trying to believe that our forefathers had to use a hammer to load while the British were approaching. Am I missing some old way of doing things. I am using a .530 RB and .10 lubed wad on top of 30GR of black powder. Or maybe I am an old man that just don't have the strength.
 
I had to use a ball starter with hammer, then used a hammer with the provided ramrod. I am having problems trying to believe that our forefathers had to use a hammer to load while the British were approaching. Am I missing some old way of doing things. I am using a .530 RB and .10 lubed wad on top of 30GR of black powder. Or maybe I am an old man that just don't have the strength.
Try a .520 round ball with a .018 pillow ticking, see if that's any better.
 
I had to use a ball starter with hammer, then used a hammer with the provided ramrod. I am having problems trying to believe that our forefathers had to use a hammer to load while the British were approaching. Am I missing some old way of doing things. I am using a .530 RB and .10 lubed wad on top of 30GR of black powder. Or maybe I am an old man that just don't have the strength.
What are you using for a patch with that ball? The wad may not be necessary with a well-lubricated patch of the proper thickness.

If you have a micrometer, I would also recommend measuring your balls. Quality control among ammunition makers is typically pretty good, but it would not be impossible for some mis-labeled balls to pass the inspectors.

If you cast the balls yourself, there are a couple of possibilities. Round ball mould makers, in their fine print, sometimes advise customers that their moulds may not be spot-on, to the thousandth of an inch, although they are generally pretty close. Also, round ball moulds are made to cast pure lead. If you are pouring scrounged or recovered range lead, it will likely be of a harder alloy, and your mould will drop oversized balls. Either way, I would recommend that you mike your balls, so you know what size you have, and make sure you are using soft, pure lead.

Finally, it would be good to know your pistol's true bore size. The best way to determine this is to slug the bore, which requires removing the breechplug and is therefore not an option I would recommend. Measuring with calipers will guarantee an undersized measure. A gunsmith or machinist may be able to measure it for you with plug gauges. You could also try sanding down a slightly oversized wooden dowel until it is just a slip fit in the bore, then measuring that. This will probably not be exact, but it should be close.

You are right, the old timers would not have tolerated that much difficulty in loading. I do know that the standard military load for .54 caliber rifles shooting patched round balls called for a .525" ball. Track of the Wolf sells .526" balls, which is close enough, and as kje54 suggested, .520" balls (from the same supplier) may also be an option.

Finally, if you do have to drive those balls down the bore, I would recommend using a wooden or rawhide mallet rather than a hammer. You can get wooden mallets cheaply from leather craft suppliers. I keep one in my range bag and have found it useful on occasion.

Good luck with it, in any event! Let us know how you do.

Notchy Bob
 
I agree with other responders. You, @ormond tony, will be strong enough to load your pistol when you optimize the ball diameter, patch thickness and bore diameter. You need a smaller diameter ball and in a pistol, you want to be able to start with your thumb.
 
As mentioned above, a micrometer could help enormously. Can you tell us what brand rifle or smoothbore your loading? Or did I miss it.
Some brands seem to run tighter tolerances than others.
 
The thread title said "Plains .54," so I'm assuming it's a Lyman Plains Pistol. I know they come in .54 as well as .50. We haven't heard any more from the OP, though.

Notchy Bob
 
Shot my 54 cal yesterday for the first time. I had no trouble thumb starting a 530 with a .010 patch and it was easy to ram it the rest of the way down the barrel. Even a .015 was easy. Now I want to get a 50 cal to. Really like that pistol
 
Here's an update on all I have: (pistols)
.50 - (Hawkins) .490RB, wonder lube patch .015 - too tight
.54 - (lyman great plains).530 RB, wonder lube patch .018 - too tight

if I use a .490 RB and a .015 lube patch on the .54 it seems to work without banging. But is it too loose?
As long as I can push the patch and ball down to the powder and the RB does not fall out, it should be ok. Correct?
I will be ordering the RBs mentioned above and see how loading works. Again thanks for your suggestions. And even though I am 70, I tested each ball in each pistol with each patch so I knew if I tried a .530 in a .50 pistol. :)
 
I would mic the balls and as suggested And try a thinner patch. Although .015 patch seems reasonable.
I’ve never had the issue your having, all of my 54s have taken a 530 roundball and a .015 patch perfectly. Let’s look at your patch... I normally use pillow ticking, which normally mics out to .015-.017 in thickness. I also use an olive oil beeswax lube... or streight Virgin olive oil. You never mentioned your lube I’m sorry if you did I may have missed that.
But with this combo, if everything is labeled correctly and is within specs, you should have no trouble pushing the ball and patch combo down the barrel and seat it on your powder charge.
 
Focus on patch thickness and lube. 0.18 is too thick IMO and Wonder lube can often load hard.

Are your balls pure lead, or home cast from wheel weights ? That will make a big difference.
 
From the math side of things you have a 0.490 ball with two 0.015 patch thickness (one on each side of the ball) in a 0.500 bore plus some extra room at the grooves.

0.490
+ 0.015
+ 0.015
= 0.520 patched ball diameter trying to go into a 0.500 hole. No wonder you are working hard to squeeze cotton between lead and steel. With all of that force you are probably far from a round ball by the time it seats on top of the powder charge.

Old timers here, am I wrong? I never understood patch thickness choices.
 
From the math side of things you have a 0.490 ball with two 0.015 patch thickness (one on each side of the ball) in a 0.500 bore plus some extra room at the grooves.

0.490
+ 0.015
+ 0.015
= 0.520 patched ball diameter trying to go into a 0.500 hole. No wonder you are working hard to squeeze cotton between lead and steel. With all of that force you are probably far from a round ball by the time it seats on top of the powder charge.

Old timers here, am I wrong? I never understood patch thickness choices.
That patch will compress, that along with the lube, that should slide down the bore perfectly.
One other thing, are you using the correct patch diameter? Sometimes if the patch is too large, the excess material can result in difficulty in loading
 
You don't need an overly tight load combination in a pistol. I would think you would be better off with a smaller ball and thicker patch.

I would use a 0.485" round ball with a 0.018" patch with a lightly lubricated patch such as Murphy's oil soap or 1 part Ballistol and 7 parts water.

In the Lyman Plains rifle, I would try a 0.526" diameter ball or a 0.520" ball with the same 0.018" patch and the above lubricant.
 
You don't need an overly tight load combination in a pistol. I would think you would be better off with a smaller ball and thicker patch.

I would use a 0.485" round ball with a 0.018" patch with a lightly lubricated patch such as Murphy's oil soap or 1 part Ballistol and 7 parts water.

In the Lyman Plains rifle, I would try a 0.526" diameter ball or a 0.520" ball with the same 0.018" patch and the above lubricant.
I run a .530 ball and a .010 patch in my Plains pistol.
It loads easily and shoots accurately at 25 yards.
 
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