Where should I Get My Miroku Charleville Defarbed?

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Sounds like a golden opportunity to figure out how to do it, and then have some skills to market.
Never done anything like it before, really don't want cut into the stock.


Dave Stalvo no longer does defarbs at Lodgewood.

Personally i wouldn’t waste good money on defarbing your Miroku Charleville, save it for your next gun.

Your Miroku charleville is pretty close to an original in its factory state, while not an exact match its close enough where if you sell it ‘defarbed’ it wouldn’t make a difference to the person buying it.

The only thing i would invest in for your Miroku charleville is a rammer spoon and a lock tune.

One of the largest issues with defarb’s on charlevilles I’ve seen is the stock finish, many argue linseed oil for the finish, however all of the orignal’s ive seen along with my own were varnished and boned.

The other issue is the markings on the barrel, many 1766’s didn’t have markings on their barrel, if they did the markings were M1763 on the barrel tang, which is to a standard feature, however I’ve never seen one marked 1766 or 1768 not sure why.

The big issue that can’t be corrected is the buttstock, it’s too short and not wide enough, originals had a thicker cross section and the butt plate was an oval shape (on most), this was because the flutes were dished in, there simply isn’t enough wood on the butt stock to accomplish this.

So my feeling largely on a factor Miroku charleville is that they pass the 10ft test in as is condition, i dont’ recommend a defarb.
Yes, sadly he doesn't.

I don't plan on ever selling it, unless I just find a really nice one for a great price.

What is a rammer spoon and what does it do?

If I were to refinish the stock myself what would I need to buy? The color of my stock and fore stock are drastically different from each other, do you think they could possibly be 2 different type of wood?

No inspectors stamp or proof marks? I'd like mine surcharged.

Maybe I could replace the stock someday to match an original.

I'd would like mine to pass the 1 foot test.
 
Never done anything like it before, really don't want cut into the stock.



Yes, sadly he doesn't.

I don't plan on ever selling it, unless I just find a really nice one for a great price.

What is a rammer spoon and what does it do?

If I were to refinish the stock myself what would I need to buy? The color of my stock and fore stock are drastically different from each other, do you think they could possibly be 2 different type of wood?

No inspectors stamp or proof marks? I'd like mine surcharged.

Maybe I could replace the stock someday to match an original.

I'd would like mine to pass the 1 foot test.


1 foot test? Buy a rifle shoppe 1766 or a 1774 (much nicer).

A rammer spoon is a ram rod retaining spring, so it doesn’t slide out.

Most inspector’s stamps on 1763’s and 66’s were underneath the barrel, some had a crown with a C or P, some had a flurdelis, some had an upside down inverted L.,

I don’t recall seeing many inspectors stamps on the top of French 1766’s. You see that more on the earlier guns 1717-1754, maybe a few 1763’s.

French stamps were also extremely small 3-5mm wide.

I have an original 1766 barrel here with a crown stamp underneath.

For the stock i would remove the finish on there with a solvent, scrap it off and then refinish with a walnut dye and polymerizing tung oil, try to avoid heavy sanding , the birch doesn’t hold up well.
 
1 foot test? Buy a rifle shoppe 1766 or a 1774 (much nicer).

A rammer spoon is a ram rod retaining spring, so it doesn’t slide out.

Most inspector’s stamps on 1763’s and 66’s were underneath the barrel, some had a crown with a C or P, some had a flurdelis, some had an upside down inverted L.,

I don’t recall seeing many inspectors stamps on the top of French 1766’s. You see that more on the earlier guns 1717-1754, maybe a few 1763’s.

French stamps were also extremely small 3-5mm wide.

I have an original 1766 barrel here with a crown stamp underneath.

For the stock i would remove the finish on there with a solvent, scrap it off and then refinish with a walnut dye and polymerizing tung oil, try to avoid heavy sanding , the birch doesn’t hold up well.
I'll probably send it to Comer's Gunworks he charges $210 for defarbs and he told me he could probably cut me some slack for tuning the lock.
 
Never done anything like it before, really don't want cut into the stock.



Yes, sadly he doesn't.

I don't plan on ever selling it, unless I just find a really nice one for a great price.

What is a rammer spoon and what does it do?

If I were to refinish the stock myself what would I need to buy? The color of my stock and fore stock are drastically different from each other, do you think they could possibly be 2 different type of wood?

No inspectors stamp or proof marks? I'd like mine surcharged.

Maybe I could replace the stock someday to match an original.

I'd would like mine to pass the 1 foot test.
You aren’t going to get any mass produced reproduction to pass the 1 foot test. You would have to get Rifle Shoppe parts or original parts to do that. If you are hesitant about slimming down lock panels you aren’t going to want to tackle a TRS kit.
 
You aren’t going to get any mass produced reproduction to pass the 1 foot test. You would have to get Rifle Shoppe parts or original parts to do that. If you are hesitant about slimming down lock panels you aren’t going to want to tackle a TRS kit.
If I bought a TRS kit I'd pay someone to build it for me.
 
I hate a defarbed gun! Somebody brings me a defarb gun to buy or one that they purchase that's been defarved and they're telling me it's original.
I cut the price on it so fast it makes guys sick.
A barrel or a gun or a lock without the manufacturer's original markings on it to me is an unknown.
It's also a big waste of money.
I tell guys you're going to defarb you need to put the manufacturer's name and serial number on it on the bottom of the barrel
Yeah they were supposed to. I took a picture to get that done in the future. I’m very happy with mine and only a couple of things to do.
 
lol. In revwar re-enacting, so many are worried about hand stitching on their butt plugs, but their guns look wrong. I actually shoot my guns. There are many different types of reenactors. Do what makes you happy.

There’s no way I’m taking, what will be a $4000 gun, and then reenacting with it where get beat to hell.
 

Before you dive into this defarb, I would heavily research the 1766 charleville musket history. Knowing more information is best, and ensuring that you’re relying on good information as to the person doing your defarb.

You mentioned passing the 1foot test, that’s a tall order to fill for a Miroku charleville..

Bianchi’s book offers some great detail into the features and variants of the 1766 Charleville.

Here is an example of an excellent defarb by Gutenberg one of the best I’ve ever seen ,not sure if he’s still in business.

These were navy arms parts on a restocked walnut stock. With some rifle shoppe hardware mixed in. The Miroku lock is a pretty decent copy, as is the barrel.

Notice the lock panels are much leaner, the finish is not dull, it’s a semi gloss varnish.

The front band has been slightly opened at the mouth, not as straight profiled.

The rammer is button shaped, correct for an early 1766/68.

Most importantly you’ll notice the buttstock is longer with deep flutes that are dished in.

This is your best 1ft test defarb in my opinion.

No discernible proof markings on the barrel are required too, there is no consistent pattern of visible proof marks on any Charleville barrel. You may find one or two with a C or M on the breech. So the barrel should be left plain.

http://gutenberggunshoppe.com/index_files/Page862.htm

Lastly the best person to do your defarb is the one that is most knowledgeable about the pattern gun, not the person willing to do the cheapest work. Do your research, document your findings and ask questions, defarb your musket based on your research. (For the 1ft test).
 

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