Where should I Get My Miroku Charleville Defarbed?

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If it's defarbed it loses its identity as a Miroku. Then it becomes more of a "custom" gun. Which will not be of value to someone who's looking for a Miroku. Value as a custom gun might even be more. But you have to add in the cost of defarbing. Who knows if one comes out ahead in the end with a custom gun? There's no market for price comparison. Something that's not being made anymore usually gains value over time without any further investment, simply because the market supply dwindles over time.

A defarbed Miroku / Navy Arms gun is not considered a custom gun, not sure how you made that determination but call up any builder and ask for a custom charleville, the first thing they will say is sure, where you getting the parts from ?

A low market supply of Miroku would increase their value as a commodity.

For example a walnut stocked navy arms charleville (with Miroku locks, barrels and hardware) could sell for nearly 1500-2000 dollars as they are very rare from the earliest production.

The reinactment community mostly owns these too, so I’d expect many if not most to be defarbed.
 
Well, your Miroku Charleville IS already arguably the most historically accurate, at least compared with whatever else is out there currently available for sale.
Yes, but the lock needs fixed, one of the wooden rods connecting the 2 piece stock together is broken, the stock and fore stock are different colors, and I'd like it even more historically accurate.
 
Yes, but the lock needs fixed, one of the wooden rods connecting the 2 piece stock together is broken, the stock and fore stock are different colors, and I'd like it even more historically accurate.
Well, go for it, but I was just expressing my opinion of what I'd do from my POV. It's your gun and you have to be happy with the final result. Make your decision on that and just take all the other opinions and comments posted here for what they're worth to achieving that goal. Best wishes and best of luck to you.

Be sure to let us know how it works out for you so we can re-evaluate our advice and opinions in light of your own experience.
 
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Yeah. Experience. On both parts.
Personal experience is not stats. You stated 95%. Prove it.

95% of people buying Charleville repros are reenactors. Then again 95% of them are farbs so……

Don't post stats unless you're prepared to back them up with actual numbers. Personal experience anecdotes are only that.
 
I was that way from the day I was born. I'm not changing now based on someone who can't back what they claim.
From the guy that doesn’t know or couldn’t tell oneway or the other. You are simply trying to be an arse for no reason. And yes the vast majority of Charlevilles are sold to reenactors, and most reenactors are indeed willful farbs. Just simple facts.
 
I’m curious to see his defarb for 210 , the crazy low. Dave stalvo stopped doing them bc of the time vs cost constraints
Hey fellas, happened to see all this conversation and I hope you don't mind my jumping in here. Having been a Civil War reenactor for about 3 decades, I know the cost etc. that goes into the hobby, and I like to try and help make it as painless as possible. As a one- man shop working out of a building behind the house, my overhead is low, and I get enjoyment and satisfaction out of doing the work and trying to spread information to the best of my ability. I'm glad you think it's a low price - you'd be surprised at how many folks think I'm charging an arm and a leg.

As to the philosophy of why defarb, that argument has been going on for quite a while. I think the majority of folks who want theirs done are in the Civil War reenacting community although I have been seeing more from the Rev War and Mexican War periods. Basically, it comes down to personal choice. Some folks want their kit to be as accurate as possible. It means something to them. Others are fine with using a gun as is out of the box. Either is fine - it just depends on the individual. Some folks want a shotgun cut down because they do CW cavalry, some folks wouldn't hear of it. I think it's the old adage - it's your gun, do what you want with it. I personally wouldn't put a Leupold scope on my WW II Mauser or my Garand and take it deer hunting, but plenty of other folks never had a problem with it.
 
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Hey fellas, happened to see all this conversation and I hope you don't mind my jumping in here. Having been a Civil War reenactor for about 3 decades, I know the cost etc. that goes into the hobby, and I like to try and help make it as painless as possible. As a one- man shop working out of a building behind the house, my overhead is low, and I get enjoyment and satisfaction out of doing the work and trying to spread information to the best of my ability. I'm glad you think it's a low price - you'd be surprised at how many folks think I'm charging an arm and a leg.

As to the philosophy of why defarb, that argument has been going on for quite a while. I think the majority of folks who want theirs done are in the Civil War reenacting community although I have been seeing more from the Rev War and Mexican War periods. Basically, it comes down to personal choice. Some folks want their kit to be as accurate as possible. It means something to them. Others are fine with using a gun as is out of the box. Either is fine - it just depends on the individual. Some folks want a shotgun cut down because they do CW cavalry, some folks wouldn't hear of it. I think it's the old adage - it's your gun, do what you want with it. I personally wouldn't put a Leupold scope on my WW II Mauser or my Garand and take it deer hunting, but plenty of other folks never had a problem with it.

Yup, 210 is considerably low considering the work i do, which is why often shun away from defarb projects, same as others.

Stock, reshape pannels and butt, refinish, cut for rammer spoon.

Forge rammer spoon from 1070 stock from an original template. Harden and temper.


Button rammer replacement,

Correct polish 180-220 matte’

Tackweld sling lug to middle band.

Reshape front band to trumpeted opening.

Mark inside of butt plate with viewers mark, outside of side plate, US surcharge is an optional feature.

Attach rammer spoon lug to barrel via dovetail, cross pin.

You tell someone 700 bucks not including shipping, for the work they’re a deer in headlights, however if. You consider that it’s a 30 hour job, it’s not a high price at all.

I suppose it depends how much someone feels their work is valued, or how generous one is willing.

This is not including lockwork, i’ve scrubbed plates and have had an engraver remark with the other factories for 250-275.

And this is what i call the 5 foot test, your customer wants a 1 foot test…. That’s a tall order for 210 bucks.
 
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I was that way from the day I was born. I'm not changing now based on someone who can't back what they claim.

Attend a rev war reinactment, you’ll see that in each regiment, 1 out of ever 3-4 has a charleville by Miroku. There are at least 30% of them in my group not including those who own both a pederosli, and Miroku.

That’s your proof, you want written statistics i could ask you for the same to back up your claim, but I’m not going there.
 
I didn't make any percentage claim, I only offered personal opinion and logic for same.
Yes, you'd best not go there because there's no there to go to.

My meaning was to not go down a rabbit hole of statements made out of conjecture because there are plenty of facts out there to validate my point that miroku’s don’t go down in value (unless there is a mechanical defect) they’ve actually become considerably expensive due to their demand and low supply. I certainly don’t feel that i need to supply you with data to support that, when it’s pretty relevant on transactions here on the forum and on various gun trading sites.
 
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.... there are plenty of facts out there to validate my point that miroku’s don’t go down in value (unless there is a mechanical defect) they’ve actually become considerably expensive due to their demand and low supply. I certainly don’t feel that i need to supply you with data to support that, ....
No you don't need to because that's exactly the same point I was trying to make if you go back and read all the posts in the thread.
 

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