Where to Buy Conical Bullets

[rodwha]

I used to used lubed felt wads between the powder and ball, but had read of people using nothing as they certainly weren't doing such during the Civil War so I tried it. It works just fine, but I think it does make for a little longer cleaning session as I often found patches not quite clean when I figured they ought to have been.

A wad soaked in lube is used to make the powder fouling softer mostly. Some feel better that there's an additional barrier to keep the flames from ignition away from the other chambers, but a a shaved ball seals it just fine unless your chamber isn't quite round or has defects.

I bought a roll of 1/8" hard felt from Durofelt and bought a wad punch from Ohioramrod on this forum. He's a retired machinist who makes custom punches for a very small fee, as well as other things such as ramrod attachments and fiberglass ramrods. I have 2 ramrods and 2 punches from him.

Gatofeo's #1 lube is an old recipe (late 1800's or early 1900's?) that Gatofeo found one day in a very old magazine (early 40's?) for lube used on outside lubricated bullets. This is the recipe by weight:

1 part mutton tallow
1 part paraffin wax
1/2 part beeswax

Double boil this and stir. Pour it onto your wads or,as I did, pour the excess into a soap mold and make a small block, which I then cut into smaller blocks to use.

 

[Zonie]

This is a direct copy of the instructions Sam Colt's factory supplied with each Colt pistol.
The same instructions apply to almost all cap and ball revolvers.

DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING COLT'S PISTOLS.

First explode a cap on each nipple to clear them from oil or dust, then draw back the hammer to the half-cock, which allows the \par
cylinder to be rotated; a charge of powder is then placed in one of the chambers, keeping the barrel up. and a ball with the pointed end upwards without wadding or patch is
put into the mouth of the chamber. turned under the rammer, and forced down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder, so that it cannot hinder its rotation
(care should be used in ramming down the ball not to shake [?] the powder from the chamber, thereby reducing the charge).
This is repeated until all the chambers are loaded. Percussion-caps are then placed on the nipples on the right of the lock-frame, where, by drawing back the hammer in the full-cock
the arm is in condition for a discharge by pulling the trigger; a repetition of the same motion produces the like results with six shots without reloading.

N.B. [?]--It will be safe to use all the Powder the chambers will hold, when loading with the flask, leaving room for the Ball, whether the Powder is strong or weak. Fine grain Powder is the best. Soft lead must be used for the balls. The cylinder is not to be taken off when loaded. The hammer, when at full cock forms the sight by which aim is taken.
To carry the arm safely when loaded let down the hammer on one of the pins between each nipple, on the end of the cylinder.
>> The arm should be throughly cleaned and oiled after firing, partriculary the arbor-pin on which the cylinder turns.

DIRECTIONS FOR LOADING WITH COLT'S FOIL CARTRIDGE

Take [?] the white case off the Cartridge, by holding the bullet end and tearing it down with the black tape. Place the Cartridge in the mouth of the chamber of the cylinder,
with the pointed end of the bullet uppermost, one at a time and turn them under the rammer, forcing them down with the lever below the surface of the cylinder so that they cannot hinder its rotation.
To ensure certainty of Ignition, it is advisable to puncture the end of the Cargtridge, so that a small portion of gunpowder may escape into the chamber while loading the pistol.

DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING

Set the lock at half-cock; drive out the key that holds the barrel and cylinder to the lock-frame, then draw off the barrel and cylinder by bringing down the lever and forcing the rammer on the partition between the chambers. Take out the nipples. Wash the cylinder and barrel in warm water, dry and oil them throughly; oil freely the base pin on which the cylinder revolves.

TO TAKE THE LOCK TO PIECES, CLEAN AND OIL

First--Remove the stock, by turning out bottom and two rear screws that fasten it to guard and lock-frame, near hammer.
Second-- Loosen the screw that fastens mainspring to the trigger guard and turn spring from under tumbler of the hammer.
Third--Remove the trigger guard by turning out the three screws that fasten it to the lock-frame.
Fourth--Turn out the screw and remove the double arm spring that bears upon the trigger and bolt.
Fifth--Turn out the screw pins that hold the trigger and bolt in their places.
Sixth--Turn out the remaining screw-in and remove the hammer with hand attached, by draswing it downwards out of the lock-frame. Clean all the parts and oil them throughly.
TO PUT THEM TOGETHER--Replace the hammer with hand-spring attached, then the bolt, the trigger, the sear spring, the trigger-guard, the mainspring, and finally the handle, returning each screw to its proper place, the arm is again in for use.

Using a wad or lube over the top of the ball does have some benefits to consider.

The wad between the ball and powder will provide a double seal against any flames entering the still loaded chambers when a round is shot.

Any lubricant applied over the top of the loaded ball will help to keep the fouling in the bore soft, potentially helping the accuracy of the next shot.

 

[starman]

Thanks to all for all of the comments, advice, and instructions you have provided. I will be out of touch for about a week and a half. I have a lot to think about and I am sure I will have more questions when I return.