Which oil after browning a barrel?

[SDSmlf]

While I suppose kerosene or turpentine will do something, IMO, that something isn't the idea behind using oil on new browning or bluing.

I was taught to use kerosene by a gunsmith in the 1970s, although in his mind it was really important in the rust bluing process, and a good idea when browning, offering consistency in either process. Has always worked for me as the first ‘oil’ bath. What is kerosene other than distilled petroleum? Thought was most engine oils had additives (detergents or the waxy stuff in Quaker State for example, that you have witnessed if you ever torn down an engine) that could somehow compromise the process. Another possible option was used engine oil, which in the theory of the day, had all the additives burned off, as noted in the OP.

 

[Pepster]

The Browning process bye itself does very little to stop rusting from humidity, moisture or from hunting & handleing.
What it DOES DO is retain oil!

 

[Pepster]

I ran across a gallon of Drill & Tap Oil (carbon steel) about 2 years ago on CL for $10 (unopened).

Call me crazy, but it has worked PERFECTLY for me (I'm sure it has detergents).
That said, it is designed for ULTRA HIGH HEAT, & that's probably not a bad thing for a rifle barrel.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Thanks guys. I do have a heat gun and can do that.

 

[Ames]

I'm surprised the olive oil fans have not chimed in yet on this one.

 

[stink koat]

For over 45 yrs and 15 rifles I use what "The Log Cabin Sport Shop" suggested, ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) after browning and rinsing with "HOT" water. Rub the fluid on while the barrel is still "very warm"!

 

[Ruben44]

The instructions that came with my TVM fowler say to use Automatic Transmission Fluid type F.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

For over 45 yrs and 15 rifles I use what "The Log Cabin Sport Shop" suggested, ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) after browning and rinsing with "HOT" water. Rub the fluid on while the barrel is still "very warm"!

Well there's another option! I do have some Dextron... ugh.. too many options!

I wish I understood the actual purpose of the heat-then-oil process from a chemical or physics perspective. Perhaps then I could tease out the specifics a little.

There are so many different petroleum products out there that these directions are almost like saying "wipe something slippery on a warm (or hot) browned barrel."

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Alright guys... I reached out to Laurel Mountain on this question and got a response. I thought I'd share their response here, since so many of you have been gracious enough to share your wisdom with me thus far! Below is my email to them, and their reply:

From Rob to LM:
Good day!

I purchased some of your Rust-Brown solution, and I'm following the instructions closely for browning a flintlock barrel (not rust-bluing). I'm nearly at the point where I have achieved probably as dark brown of a color on the barrel as I think the product will get.

According to your instructions, I understand that I need to "stop" the process by using a mild solution of baking soda/water, dry it completely, heat it up, and then coat it with oil so that the oil "bonds to the brown" (per your instructions).

My question is.. .there are SO MANY different petroleum products out there that I'm curious whether there are particular oils that you recommend that we use or avoid? I've read a lot of recommendations and they don't all agree. Some say use kerosene, used motor oil (but not new), some say use non-detergent oil, others use brand new regular motor oil, some say that transmission oil is the best. Heck, I've even read that some guys use olive oil! It seems that the term "oil" is a bit too vague, and I know they all have different properties, additives, etc.

If I knew more about metallurgy or chemistry, I may be able to figure out how the oil "bonds with the brown," but I'm neither of those things.

Instead I figure I'd reach out to the maker of this product and get your specific advice please.

Any particular petroleum products to avoid? Any specific recommendations?

Much appreciated.
Rob

Their reply:

Good morning Rob,
The oil that you use is not critical. You do not want to use kerosene as it is volatile and will not offer any corrosion protection. What you want to do is heat the barrel up to drive off any residual moisture and then apply an oil and allow it to penetrate the brown which is porous. As I said any oil will work. I use regular motor oil as I always have an odd container or two around the shop.
Regards,
Rick Schreiber
Laurel Mountain Forge, LLC

 

[Ames]

Sounds like we tend to overthink it.

 

[SDSmlf]

And they don’t recommend my old standby, kerosene. And as my dear old dad used to say, if all else fails read the instructions. If that doesn’t work, and you think you understand those instructions, try and follow them.

Surprised no one suggested using WD40, or did I miss it?

 

[nhmoose]

Quick seal from Du-Lite company is what we used in the commercial blue shop. Came in 55 gallon drums. Most gun manufactures use it along with Du-Lite's bluing salts. I keep a gallon in my shop given to me by the owner of the shop.

 

[rusty]

might be overthinking this any oil will do

 

[flntlokr]

According to Laurel Mountain Rust Browning instructions, when the desired brown color is achieved on a barrel (and other metal pieces), we are instructed neutralize the process with a solution of baking soda and warm water, dry it off, dry it well “with a hair dryer” and we’re done.

Other instructions/advice I’ve read suggest heating it with a torch, then covering it in motor oil. The oil coating seems to be very popular...

Two questions for those with experience with LM rust browning...

1. Use a propane torch to heat or nah? If yes... light torch? Can I screw it up by getting too hot?

2. I’ve read that “old oil” is better because the heat of the engine already burned off any detergents in the oil. I do not have old oil but I have one non-detergent oil in my garage. I’ve also heard that turpentine is ideal?

I have three oils handy, but will buy something different on advice... what kind of oil works best to “finish” the browning process and stop it from wiping away??

View attachment 33206
Back of bar & chain:
View attachment 33207
Back of the non-detergent pump oil:
View attachment 33208
Back of the 4-cycle
View attachment 33209
Use one of these? Or something else??
Rob

I have always just rubbed them down with brown shoe polish after neutralizing the brown. Used linseed once as well. Both worked, and stay on the barrel for a long time.

 

[tenngun]

Sounds like we tend to overthink it.

You betcha!
Of courseThat’s what we do.
I get warm water, too hot to hold my finger in but not boiling. Pour in enough bicarb as it can desolve and wash the parts or the barrel. Rub down with my gun oil, rub till warm. Next day oiled patch, then next oiled patch, finely wax.

 

[Ames]

Yep.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

Oh hell yea. I overthink just about everything!

The barrel and nose cap piece are officially done with the browning solution. They have been neutralized, washed, heated, and are currently cooling off with a heavy coat of oil on them. If it retains most of the color that appear now, wet with oil, I’ll be absolutely thrilled.
Rob

 

[Snotty54]

Is there acid in Laurel Mountain, if so what kind??

 

[Zonie]

Is there acid in Laurel Mountain, if so what kind??

I'm sure it does but I don't know what it is. Most likely Sulfuric or possibly hydrochloric acid. Possibly both.
It also contains one of the copper compounds like copper sulfate. That's why if you overlap the area when you apply it, it will lay down a layer of copper on the surface. If that happens, the copper will protect the steel that is under it so no further rusting will happen.

 

[Jay Templin]

This is the T/C barrel I just finished for the Hawkenstein project I've been working on. It's about 8 cycles of Track of the Wolf's Tried and True Brown applied over the course of several days. I'm in Tidewater Virginia,so I didn't need a humidity box or anything- just left it on the porch! After I carded it the last time (I used denim every time), I had a rag full of tung oil from working the stock, so I just used that. Pretty happy with the results.
Jay