Which oil after browning a barrel?

[Hortonstn]

Mineral oil let set overnight

 

[Pepster]

Got to be careful when using any "Old Browning" products as A LOT contained Mercury!

That's one GOOD thing about Laurel Mountain, it DOESNT contain Mercury.

I "Brown" just like I Blue.
I totally degrease, gas any oil & dilute a little (more coats but better control over full strength).

Sweat cabinet is key.

I NEVER EVEN KNEW there was a oil cotroversy until reading this thread.
I have my doubts that oil matters...
YMMV!

 

[Pepster]

4 pages of oil TYPE opinions!

 

[Col. Batguano]

It doesn't hurt to neutralize the browning 2-3 times. Make your baking soda paste with warm water, rub it in really well, and then hose it off with warm to hot water. The hot water will help open up the pores. Then take a rag and wipe it dry, and wipe it with ammonia a time or two.

With one of my guns I wanted a "blackened finish" rather than browned. I used (new 10-30 because I didn't have any used stuff) motor oil over the browning and then torched it with a propane torch. It didn't turn out totally coal black but a super deep brown that was almost black, and will probably be more durable. An interesting variation or color and another subtle point of interest on the gun.

 

[stewart.leach]

Being a bit of a contrarian, I have had excellent results using wood floor wax liberally applied by rag to a barrel heated with spouse's hair dryer. Rubbed it in hard. Seems to seal well, water and cleaning solutions just bead up on the surface.

 

[MIOutdoorsman]

4 pages of oil TYPE opinions!

I never thought my post would gather so much attention! Very happy that others find this thread interesting enough to comment or contribute.

 

[bubba.50]

According to Laurel Mountain Rust Browning instructions, when the desired brown color is achieved on a barrel (and other metal pieces), we are instructed neutralize the process with a solution of baking soda and warm water, dry it off, dry it well “with a hair dryer” and we’re done.

Other instructions/advice I’ve read suggest heating it with a torch, then covering it in motor oil. The oil coating seems to be very popular...

Two questions for those with experience with LM rust browning...

1. Use a propane torch to heat or nah? If yes... light torch? Can I screw it up by getting too hot?

2. I’ve read that “old oil” is better because the heat of the engine already burned off any detergents in the oil. I do not have old oil but I have one non-detergent oil in my garage. I’ve also heard that turpentine is ideal?

I have three oils handy, but will buy something different on advice... what kind of oil works best to “finish” the browning process and stop it from wiping away??

View attachment 33206
Back of bar & chain:
View attachment 33207
Back of the non-detergent pump oil:
View attachment 33208
Back of the 4-cycle
View attachment 33209
Use one of these? Or something else??
Rob

i use thread cutting oil with sulfur in it.

 

[tenngun]

I never thought my post would gather so much attention! Very happy that others find this thread interesting enough to comment or contribute.

Ask two ml guys whats the best way to do x you get ten answers.
And each one is the best they found.
Mine sans torches,heat, or motor oil. LM.

 

[Pete G]

I never thought my post would gather so much attention! Very happy that others find this thread interesting enough to comment or contribute.

Now ask about cleaning.........I dare you

 

[FishDFly]

Now ask about cleaning.........I dare you

Okay, now a double dare. and what kind of cloth for wiping the outside of the barrel after cleaning?

Should be good for another 25 pages and no definitive answer.

 

[Bob McBride]

Now ask about cleaning.........I dare you

Okay, now a double dare. and what kind of cloth for wiping the outside of the barrel after cleaning?

Should be good for another 25 pages and no definitive answer.

Just don’t use the stuff that’ll leave all the little fuzzies everywhere....

 

[Kansas Jake]

Little fuzzies are good for hunting. They help break up the profile of the piece and make it harder for turkeys to see.

 

[flntlokr]

Wipe the barrel down with old skivvies; you won't be so tempted to blow down the barrel.

 

[Bob McBride]

If you're going to blow down the barrel, make sure it went off. Kind of like driving a car. Don't step out unless you're sure you're not still going down the highway......

 

[GregLaRoche]

GunBlue490 on YouTube once said to use mineral oil. The type you take for constipation etc. It has no additives like motor oils. It’s cheap by the gallon at Costco. I have used it or Ballistol on all my guns for years now. Blued, browned or white, works great for me.

 

[Cattman]

after browning a barrel you have to boil or at least soak it in clean water with baking soda in the water. you have to stop the acid from working with the browning solution. then you oil the barrel. other wise problems will happen as it keeps doing the acid part.

 

[87TT]

I could have browned a barrel three times since this thread started. But I only did one plus all the other metal parts on my SMR including the patch box I decided on at the last minute after the barrel and others were done and oil treated. (10-40)

 

[Crow-Feather]

These instructions from Laurel Mountain Rust Brown (website) is where the idea of using motor oil came from.

“...
To finish the barrel, heat the surface with a torch until it is too warm to comfortably touch with bare hands, about 1250 to 1300 F. This will drive off any remaining moisture. Next apply a liberal coat of motor oil. Allow the oil to bond with the brown for 24 hours and then polish off any excess with a soft dry cloth. Apply a final finish of a quality gun oil, non-abrasive furniture wax or neutral color shoe wax.”

thus my inquiries about oils....

Use a heat gun, works and is safer

 

[MO_E_W]

Washing the baking soda solution off with boiling hot water leaves the metal very warm water vaps off and used linseed oil rubbed in works for me. just finished this pistol yesterday

 

[Cattman]

oil can slow the acid process, however baking soda stops it now if enough is used. another thing if you wrap a leather sling around the barrel then the butt stock. if the leather is acid treated it will gouge your barrel over time and ruin the outside of the barrel. never [put acid treated leather next to metal you want to keep nice, it will ruin it bad. seen that a few times. it really can cut into a barrel.