Wiggle in Patchbox

[Treerat]

I am currentley in the process of installing a patchbox and have discovered that the lid has got more wiggle in it than I really like after inletting the finial. Prior to the inlet it felt pretty good. I have tried pecking on the hidden areas of the hinge nuckles and it has helped some. Should I continue peening or does anyone have a better idea? I realise the side plates will lock it in well enough to work the latch, I just think this shows somewhat sloppy craftsmanship. I appreciate any help. Thanks.

 

[Erzulis boat]

If it is sheet brass, and the knuckles are "rolled", then the surefire accurate method is to make a press.
Measure the median diameter of the knuckles, and either machine or drill a hole in a block of aluminum, or very hard wood.
Split it to make 2 halves with enough space to clear the sheet of brass, when the halves are compressed parallel in the vise.
Very little pressure is required.
I have done this with titanium "piano" hinge assemblies, so brass should be a joke.
Also, check the hinge pin for quality and roundness, as I have seen some junk (ovalized rods).
Some jokers insert the pin, and then grind the ends, using the attendant burr to retain the system. :shake:

 

[Treerat]

I did some more work on it and got it stable in the closed position. Still get some wiggle when the lid is lifted up,may just have to live with it. The problem isn't the pin. It's 1/16 tig welding rod. The problem is the joker that made this thing(me) :redface: didn't get the brass solidly formed around it enough and I didn't have an optiviser to aid when cutting out the hinge nuckles so I got a few gaps. In the closed position the door shoulders outside the hinge butt up against the finial nuckle so I didn't really notice till she was formed to fit the stock.BTW just ordered bifocals yesterday :grin:

 

[Roy]

The last one I did I formed the hinge, shaped it to the stock then layed out and cut the nuckles. that way even with a slight curve the cuts were not binding at the bottom or gapped at the top. I hope this helps a bit for your next project. :thumbsup:

 

[Erzulis boat]

Good point, Roy.....

Real good point. :thumbsup:

 

[Treerat]

To Roy
This sounds like a great idea. Did you have any problem getting the hinge pin reinserted on an already curved hinge? If I had just done a better job of fitting so that the edge of the door nuckle almost dragged the finial slot(did one for my father in laws rifle right after and its ok ) it would be fine but this does sound really good for preventing unsightly gaps that appear after bending some times. Thanks. BTW really nice Southern rifle. :hatsoff:

 

[Roy]

I use 4d finish nails to pin most things, a #49 drill bit is th same size. So when I form the hinge I use the nail and when I shaped it I used two nails met up in the middle so I could remove them easily. After I had the slight curve I wanted on both pieces I went back to the drill press and on the lowest setting made sure that the drill would still pass. I wouldn't recommend this on a serious curve but a slight one the drill willl follow without breaking. Besides on a serious curve you would have binding issues with the pin. I then aligned the two pieces and marked out the nuckels.