With the establishment of the Volunteer Movement in the UK in 1859, and later that year the NRA(UK), target shooting with the Enfield rifle became a popular sport. Regional rifle associations also formed and target shooting as a sport with the Enfield rifle flourished through the 1860s, with matches being held generally out to 600 yards. Much of these events were for the P.53 Enfield with Government cartridges. Tools such as verniers to enable more precise elevation sight settings, or cartridges checkers to check the amount of powder in the cartridge evolved as the riflemen sought improved accuracy.Individual pinpoint accuracy was not prioritized, just "combat accuracy", so in came the 1960s with a revival in interest of shooting Civil War arms, and we began to really start tweaking things.
The cartridges in the photo are for .54 cal rifles.
I shoot a lot of long range matches with muzzle loading match rifle and black powder cartridge rifle usually involving meticulous cleaning out between shots and fine vernier scale sights. Following this the 'simplicity' of the muzzle loading military rifle comes as a great joy, and the challenge coming in working out how far to 'aim-off' to allow for wind drift - 300 yards with these rifles is a nice distance. I'm sure you'll enjoy it and suprise your local club shooters....... steel silhouettes out to 300 yards but other ranges go out much farther. No optics allowed, only period notch, peep or tang sights....... I asked if I could use a .58 Rifle-Musket and they were really excited to have me attempt the course with one....
For the original Prichett bullets, how much difference in diameter was there between the outside of the patched and lubed as-loaded ammo and the inside of the bore?
The first bullets were swaged with a diameter of .568." Add .008" for the paper and it's going to be .576."
Later bullets were swaged with a diameter of .550" to accommodate for a heavily fouled barrel. Add .008" for the paper and the finished diameter is .558."
I'm toying with the idea of swagging my own Prichett bullets but am stumped on what I can use for the plug. I thought about clay but it is too inconsistent and, once dried, is prone to cracking.
I don't have a lathe. So making wooden plugs is out of the question. Besides, turning lots of little wooden plugs isn't my idea of fun when I could be shooting.
On another note, anyone shooting reproduction Enfields should verify their rifling twist and not take the word of the manufacturer. I have an Armi Sport 58 Enfield. They advertise a 1:48" twist. My 500 grain swaged Minies were not grouping very well. Once I determined that the twist was about 1:60" I could see why.
The longer bullets were not stabilizing in the slower twist rifling.
So I'm going back to the drawing board with a 460 grain bullet.
I share all that in case folks are having trouble getting the heavier bullets to group in their Enfield.
For the plugs, something in paste form that will harden after filling the cavity?
The actual shape of the cavity could be very important.
The plug needs to slightly larger than the cavity so when it is forced in it, the skirt will expand outward (along with the paper) to engage the rifling.
The original plugs were wood. I doubt that the paste, once dry, would withstand the pressure.
Nevertheless, what type of paste were you thinking of?
Modelling filler might work. Once upon a time I exchanged questions with a fellow in the UK and he said something used there was "milliput". The cavities being slightly tapered would take care of the size.
For smoothsided paper patched I'm planning on first going with gas pressure doing the work rather than a plug driven forwards.
Put 90 in the thing. Stop worrying. I don't understand why muzzloader folk get so worried about good heavy charges in their rifles. I like it to many a novice welder! Many a novice welder is reluctant to turn the set up and are content to blob two pieces of material together in an unsatisfactory fashion...completely missing the sweet spot because of....drum roll....fear!What charge should I try? Pedersoli's site says 90 grains is about max, and i've been told sticking around 40 is best. Looking at the site again it's suggesting a 60gr charge, so i might give that a go and see how it works.
Inefficiency of heavy charges is not a reason to discount them. For instance the powder up against the bullet can end up acting as a firewall for a millisecond at peak pressure thus offering some protection whilst the minie seals.While 90g may be doable, you'll find best accuracy in minie guns between 40-70g. This depends on a number of factors, minie design, skirt thickness, powder granulation, caps, lube etc. Like I said before, there are a number of variables and controlling them is the key to accuracy. Plugging the base is just one more variable that has a number of subsets to deal with like plug size and material.
Know this as well, the limitations of real BP mean there is a point where all you get with more powder is recoil and unburnt powder blown out the barrel. That's a simple fact of life in these guns. Sometimes you can use the powder, but there is a limit.
Back to your sights. We in the NSSA are target shooters. I can tell you now, no matter how much powder you put in the gun or what you do, I think you're probably going to have to move that front post. Let's face it, even if it's a Pedersoli, it's not an original with original manufacturing processes and tolerances. With that said, I have seen different weight bullets shoot into different sight pictures. Out of my Colts, the Rapine Trashcan shoots to point of aim while the RCBS Hogdon shoots high to the right about 1 oclock.
One other variable here- your eyes and how you perceive the sights. It's entirely possible somebody else shooting your gun will hit an entirely different place.
Muzzleloader iron sights can be fun to deal with, especially the replica military issue ones.
Enter your email address to join: