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Will .690's impact higher than .715's?

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Skychief

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If my smoothbore fires .715's low at 25 yards, do you think that using .690's (and a thicker patch) will raise the point of impact?

I don't want to bend my barrel if I can avoid it! :blah:

The barrel is 28 inches by the way.

Thanks for your thoughts! Skychief. :bow:
 
Skychief said:
If my smoothbore fires .715's low at 25 yards, do you think that using .690's (and a thicker patch) will raise the point of impact?
A lighter ball should fly a bit higher with the same charge of powder, but the difference may not be enough to help you.

What's your set-up? Rear sight? Load?

Spence
 
George said:
Skychief said:
If my smoothbore fires .715's low at 25 yards, do you think that using .690's (and a thicker patch) will raise the point of impact?
A lighter ball should fly a bit higher with the same charge of powder, but the difference may not be enough to help you.

What's your set-up? Rear sight? Load?


Hi Spence!

I have a TC New Englander 12 gauge with a cylinder bore. I have tried 2f charges of 60, 70, 80, and 90 grains. Each hits about 3 inches low at 25 yards. The 70 grain charge threw the tightest groups, by the way.

I have tried only the .715's and .010 patching. I have also experimented with the use of "hard" over powder cards and "cushion" wads as well, with no appreciable difference. All patches were mink-oiled. Recovered patcjes all looked great.

I have also tried to "show more barrel", and while it will work, I am afraid that instincts and a fine sight will take over with a deer in front of my muzzle!

The gun only wears a front bead (no rear sight). I prefer it that way too.

Thanks for any thoughts, sir.

Skychief. :thumbsup:

Spence
 
If anything it should impact a little lower.

Assuming all else is equal; the smaller ball should travel a little faster, meaning less time in the barrel, meaning recoil will not raise the barrel quite so much by the time the ball exits the bore.

I think it will be tough to see the difference though.
 
Sky, My 20ga English fowler does the same thing. About 5in low at 25yds. I wrapped a piece of leather around the forearm to use as a rear elevator with good results, and it is removable!
 
Skychief said:
The gun only wears a front bead (no rear sight). I prefer it that way too.
I shoot a J. Brown 20 ga. flintlock, 46" with only a front blade. When I first got it and began working up a round ball load I had the same problem. The front blade was pretty long, so I started filing. I soon found out that there wasn't going to be enough sight to file down to solve my problem, so I backed off, thought about it and started with a new approach. I changed my sight picture. The problem disappeared. I very quickly learned to use that sight picture automatically with that gun, and I've shot it at all sorts of game for 13 years now without ever once goofing a shot because I forgot in the heat of battle. It's not as much of a problem as you think. My sight picture will be different than yours, of course, but there is almost certainly a way for you to see yours which will move that ball up. Give it a try, can't hurt, because no filing is involved. :)

Spence
 
Ogre said:
If anything it should impact a little lower.

Assuming all else is equal; the smaller ball should travel a little faster, meaning less time in the barrel, meaning recoil will not raise the barrel quite so much by the time the ball exits the bore.

I think it will be tough to see the difference though.
That Ogre ain't purty but I think he's right. :grin:
It is hard to maintain consistent elevation without some sort of reference. I'd try the "leather barrel band" as suggested.
 
The Ogre reflects the accepted theory on this subject :bow: . But you should check on your own too; because in theory, theory and practice are the same, but in practice theory and practice can be different.
 
Ogre said:
If anything it should impact a little lower.

Assuming all else is equal; the smaller ball should travel a little faster, meaning less time in the barrel, meaning recoil will not raise the barrel quite so much by the time the ball exits the bore.
But then again, the smaller ball will be traveling at a faster velocity all the way to the target. It will be falling at the same rate as all balls, but for a shorter time, so it will fall less, hit higher.

None of which will be noticeable, I think.

Makes my head hurt to think about all the variables. I just aim differently and hit the target. :)

Spence
 
Adjust your sight picture so that you are looking at more of the barrel between your front sight
and tang screw. Just a slight increase in barrel elevation will make a big change. Once you get used to this sight picture you will "lock" into it
every time you shoulder the gun. It just takes some practice, no barrel bending.
:thumbsup:
 
Tried the .690's this evening. As many advised here, I saw no difference in point of impact compared to the .715's. The .690's loaded a lot easier and actually shot tighter groups, so, that is what I will be hunting with in about a month.

Thanks for all the help fellers! :thumbsup:
 
Are you shooting those out of a 12 ga.?What may I ask does yer muzzle inside diameter measure? I am tryin to find the perfect setup for mine as well and that is why I ask.Thanx for any help.
 
Until you are testing roundballs of different weight at no less than 75 yards, and, better, at 100 yds, you are not likely to seem much difference in the POINT OF IMPACT of two different sized balls. Even less, if you adjust the powder charge to reflect the changes in the weight of the projectile. With a ball that size, we are not talking a difference that you can "Hold" shooting iron sights, at those distances. It therefore becomes more of an "academic exercise" than a question of relevance to field shooting. :surrender: :hmm: :thumbsup:
 

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