Will steam help this ?

[Red Owl]

Steam will definitely pull up depressed wood fibers.

 

[LME]

Steam will definitely pull up depressed wood fibers.

It sure will but it is useless if a piece of wood is missing from a deep cut!

 

[APG]

1

 

[French Colonial]

It sure will but it is useless if a piece of wood is missing from a deep cut!

Look closely at the pictures, especially number two, it looks like more wood is compressed than missing JMHO

 

[LME]

Look closely at the pictures, especially number two, it looks like more wood is compressed than missing JMHO

If it is a dent but he stated it was cut?

 

[French Colonial]

I have a bad dent in my stock and I'm wondering if steaming will fix it. It goes against the grain. Cut it pretty clean. Pretty deep also. What about some type of filler? Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SOLANCO]

I'd consider having a good woodworker/furniture maker make a same species inlay piece, install it and correct the finish for you.

 

[waksupi]

I would most likely cut that portion out to about 1/16", find matching wood, and glue into place. The wood strips can be soaked in strong janitor grade ammonia, and bent to form to the stock. That's how I bend curves for building violins and mandolins, Sand smooth, and fill any gaps by applying a bit of glue and sanding over it to fill. If done well, it shouldn't be too obvious.

 

[45man]

If it is a cut with a piece missing I can't see how steaming would help? If it is a dent steam will cure the problem best. You can't raisie wood that is gone?

Doesn't look like any wood is missing, compressed I would say so steam first. Accra glass and stained as close as you can get really works good.

 

[1BadDart]

Steaming may raise it a little, but not much if any. I’ve refinished several Winchester 52 and Remington 40x stocks and steam will remove most but not all bruises. When the grain is broken it hasn’t helped much in my experience.

 

[APG]

So what I've decided to do is refinish the whole stock. I have stripped most of the old finish off with Citristrip. Need to do it one more time to get the problem spots done. Next I'll try steaming the dent since all the wood is still there even though it went against the grain, cutting it I guess you would say. Then I'll use boiled linseed oil for the finish.

 

[APG]

Looks like I have oil or maybe it's from the Balistol I use saturated into the wood. What's a good way to get it out? Acetone perhaps?

 

[Whitworth]

Easy Off oven cleaner. Use gloves.

 

[APG]

Looks a whole lot better after steaming the crap out of it.

 

[Eric Krewson]

Dang good! That is about what I ended up with on my baseball bat stock, looking back I didn't fill the cracks with superglue and sawdust, only superglue. Filing such cracks with superglue will leave a black line after you finish the wood, no problem on the dark walnut stock stock I was refinishing, you have to look hard to see the filled cracks. If you superglue your crack it may show up more on your stock depending on how dark you plan to stain your wood.

 

[1BadDart]

It came out better than I anticipated. Great job.

 

[frankie]

Looks a whole lot better after steaming the crap out of it.

Looks great APG I really didnt think it would turn out that good. Usually when wood fibers are torn and mashed, they dont steam out back to normal.

 

[frankie]

Looks a whole lot better after steaming the crap out of it.

Eric is right usually when one goes to put finish or stain back on the wood there will be a dark line where the wood was mashed. LIKE a Bruse. The way I hide that is to use an artist OIL paint that matches the wood. Apply it in thin layers and let it dry for several days before one applies the finish. Remember very dry, and apply small thin dabs of paint, thin layers is best.

 

[APG]

After the first coat of boiled linseed oil. Can barley see the dent.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I use leather dye and a small brush to hide patched wood, thin coats of diluted dye until I have the right matching color.