Woodsrunner lock, removing cock from tumbler problem.

[Joemolf]

Cleaning and greasing. Otherwise if you shoot it a lot, you might be removing the cock to fit a bushing into the lock plate.

That’s a lot of shooting and I have one of those. I just oil all of mine though I have no real time to wear out a lock on any of them. I do have a flinter whose lock nicely engraved required a bushing. The rifle was built in1980 according to the engraving on the barrel by the fella who built it. I had to purchase the rebuild kit from Track or Dixie I forget which. I think it came with a tumbler, bushing brass, and a fly. Surprisingly the guy i had install the brass bushing did a great job. It’s a small Siler lock. I don’t remember if it is a L&R or Chambers. All I did was drill the plate. I bought the gun from a older than me guy off gun broker. He supposedly had it built. He didn’t tell me the lock was warn. The barrel is fine for all the shooting it’s seen. You could cock it and it would hold but if you blew on the trigger it would fire! I was able to find the lock at Dixie and used that until I got the lock professionally repaired. I replaced the touch hole; the one that came with the rifle you could drive a small truck through. I don’t know what it is about this rifle but it is close to my favorite. I don’t shoot it as much but it’s a fine shooter and the ignition is perfect.

 

[TDM]

As already mentioned the best and safest way to separate the hammer from the tumbler is to find a socket that fits the tumbler without touching it, place the socket on a vise or hard surface, the take a square end punch that fits inside the hammer hole and give it a good tap. I made my square punch from 1/4” square stock and filed a taper to fit without touching.

 

[Joemolf]

I don’t bother with it. I don’t rust brown the locks anymore.

They are nice when you sand them to 220/320 though the cast finish is not bad either.

 

[Kmcmichael]

They are nice when you sand them to 220/320 though the cast finish is not bad either.

I see there is a punch available. I might try it on my current project.

 

[Joemolf]

I think I purchased my punches on Amazon “TEKTON” they come with flat punches and center punches but instead of a point the transfer punches have a sphere or ball at the end. This way you can use a 7/32 instead of 1/4 inch and not mar the threads on the tumbler and it won’t mar the hex on the lock. That in combination with a socket; I’ve been using a 22 mm and the anvil surface of your vice your done. Yes bench is a mess!
Just get the roll punches $32 if able. Price has gone way up on everything

 

[Joemolf]

I think I purchased my punches on Amazon “TEKTON” they come with flat punches and center punches but instead of a point the transfer punches have a sphere or ball at the end. This way you can use a 7/32 instead of 1/4 inch and not mar the threads on the tumbler and it won’t mar the hex on the lock. That in combination with a socket; I’ve been using a 22 mm and the anvil surface of your vice your done. Yes bench is a mess!View attachment 228237View attachment 228238View attachment 228238