Woodsrunner Matchbox Lid too tight now

[GriscomRun]

After all the stock and lid staining and finishing work my patch box lid only goes in about 2/3. What is a good way to get it to slide in easier all the way ?
Sand or file the contact points on the lid or the edges of the box itself ?
I did try some light sanding with 220 on the edges of the lid. But, I don't want to go to far for concerns about creating a problem for myself and having to start over with a new lid.
Appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Phil Coffins]

I’d try a scraper, a triangle shape to get into the inside corners.

 

[GriscomRun]

Worth a try. I did try the paper along the flats where the lid meets the box. But that did not gain much. I was thinking ( maybe ) some light sanding along the edges of the box.

 

[Flintandsteel]

Clean/scrape all the finish out of the track. A 3 corner file is your best bet. Then wax the box and track. Should go all the way on, and not stick anymore.

 

[BJHabermehl]

After all the stock and lid staining and finishing work my patch box lid only goes in about 2/3. What is a good way to get it to slide in easier all the way ?
Sand or file the contact points on the lid or the edges of the box itself ?
I did try some light sanding with 220 on the edges of the lid. But, I don't want to go to far for concerns about creating a problem for myself and having to start over with a new lid.
Appreciate your thoughts.

Having done a few of these beware of doing too much work on the patch box cavity. I’d rather focus on making clearance on the lid. The surfaces you will be dressing will be hidden when finished. Heaven forbid Kibler makes lids every day. If you goof. If anything Kibler holds their tolerances somewhat too close, leaving temptation to finish the stock and lid without clearance for finish. BJH

 

[Buff1958]

another vote for a 3 sided file on lid only

 

[hawkenhunter50]

Use a pencil to mark the lid dovetail and that will act as your 'inlet black'. You'll be able to see where you are hitting and can remove material from that spot only. I wouldn't remove material willy nilly on the lid or the box.

 

[hawkenhunter50]

Just another thought. If you just did the finish work, let the gun sit a week or two before doing anything. After it all cures the lid might fit properly again.

 

[James Kibler]

If you take a three cornered file and grind the end perfectly flat, you can push it and it will act as a scraper. This generally cuts better than the teeth on a file.

 

[Tom A Hawk]

Use a pencil to mark the lid dovetail and that will act as your 'inlet black'. You'll be able to see where you are hitting and can remove material from that spot only. I wouldn't remove material willy nilly on the lid or the box.

Just like fitting it in the first place.

 

[rich pierce]

I always make sure the lid slides in easily 2/3 of the way. Humidity changes can cause a box to stick which makes it useless. A wooden patchbox lid should be able to move a little side to side when half way in and tighten as it closes. I’m assuming the lid and the rails in the stock are slightly angled. Like the good advice above, I use a triangular file on the lid rails. I use one with a “safe” side, with the teeth ground off, being careful to not remove any wood from the underside of the lid edges.

 

[GriscomRun]

Thanks to all. I like these ideas and will get them into play. Great idea from Hawken - when I was thinking of ways to solve this, I reminded myself of how using ink to mark high spots when fitting barrels into the breech. So, that pencil idea is looking good.
To BJ - no, I don't even want to think about the box cavity. Anything removed cannot be put back. Lids are cheaper than stocks. !!
Jim's and Phil's idea for a scraper makes sense.
Thanks to all.

 

[Siringo]

On both the Colonial and Woodsrunner I had the same issue. I do not put finish on the dovetail per se. A sealer will do, nothing that builds up on the surface. But be aware that application of any finish will cause the wood to swell.

Getting back to the real issue, what I found was the front of the lid was the problem area. On my rifles, with the lid fully inserted, I make sure the clearance is such that I can slide a piece of copy paper between the stock and the front of the lid. Prior to finishing, the lid moved freely. But after finishing it stuck. So I removed a small amount of wood from the underside of the front portion of the lid until it moved freely.