Woodsrunner Sling
- Thread starter Siringo
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I havnt done it on a Woodsrunner, But I did it on my Pedersoli Indian Trade gun. I got the sling swivels from TOW. One mounts in the stock, just aft of the trigger gaurd. The other mounts up on the bbl, by the second RR Pipe. For the upper one you will have to silver solder a lug on the bottom of the BBL, drill it for the sling screw, and inlet it into the stock. Not a hard job to do.
Dave
Dave
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Note that when the slung firearm is placed muzzle up, the sling swivel falls on the ramrod's thimble. The sling swivel should go through a lug permanently attached to the barrel as described above.
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Joe Schell put them on the woodsrunner he built for me
Grenadieris right. The pic for the upper swivel is upside down. When swiveled down it will hit the RR pipe and not block the channel.
Dave
Dave
Where did you get that strap? I like that a lot!Joe Schell put them on the woodsrunner he built for me
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Jeanne Mcdonald made several of them for me. She does excellent work
Siringo
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The forearm is quite thin on my woodsrunner. I understand that a lug soldered on the barrel bottom is a must. I have about 1/4 inch of depth from the bottom of the ramrod channel to the barrel bottom to work with.
I’m not sure why this has never occurred to me. I want slings for my guns due to the amount of hiking I do, but I never ‘pulled the trigger’, because I didn’t want to drill through the barrel channel. Thank you for this
You dont drill through the BBL channel per se. The metal lug is silver soldered on to the underside of the BBl. Then drill a whole in it for the sling swivel. Drill it in the lower half of the lug. Then you have to inlet the lug into the stock, in the stocks BBL channel. Use lipstick to on the bottom of the lug to show where to inlet the lug at. Then you have to figure out where to drill the hole thru the stock for the swivel screw. The swivel screw hole will be below the BBL channel.
Its not as hard as it sounds. I have done 3 of them now.
Dave
Its not as hard as it sounds. I have done 3 of them now.
Dave
Siringo
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Trick for me is drilling the hole perpendicular.
NO... That would make a bigger hole in the stock as you used it, from ware.. Just drill the hole in the swivel lug a few thousands bigger then the swivel screw diameter, just enough to let the screw swivel. Use the same size drill bit to drill the stock.
As for drilling the whole perpandiular.... What I did with my hand drill, was to install one of those little round levels on the back end of the drill housing. Of course it has to be flat. I used double sided tape. level the stock in your vice first. the level on back of the batt operated drill will keep it very straight.
Dave
As for drilling the whole perpandiular.... What I did with my hand drill, was to install one of those little round levels on the back end of the drill housing. Of course it has to be flat. I used double sided tape. level the stock in your vice first. the level on back of the batt operated drill will keep it very straight.
Dave
I think that ALL hand drills should have a level on them or AT LEAST a dead flat spot on the rear of the case that is perpendicular to the chuck bore. C'mon Harbor Freight, step it up!
kansas_volunteer
45 Cal.
I use a hand cranked eggbeatter drill for such things. They do drill steel quite well. I can eyeball level. I have more control over the muscle powered tool, and it's safer for the project, less likely to flub.
I got one of those out in the wood shop and regularly use it for drilling smallish holes. They're still available on E-bay and such places and usually still work fine. Don't set the budget back too bad either. Too bad you can't still get new ones.
I have a couple of ole hand drills, I Liberated from the Navy. We called them "hurdy gurdies". They work very good. I also have a nice 1/2 inch Drill press by Omahaw Tool. The little batt operated hand drill I use is a small one, I got on Amazon. Its a Kimo 12 volts, perfect for working on gun stocks , and such. Its the one I put the level on.
Dave
Dave
Siringo
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I heard from Jim Kibler today and his advice was to use a thicker lug. He makes his own - obviously. But i thought about something that is a fly in the ointment. The lugs on the new Woodsmaster are slotted. Evidently to allow the stock to move. But if I installed a sling lug, thats not slotted, that kinda negates thst feature. I suppose it would be prudent to slot the sling lug.
Thanks for all the input.
Thanks for all the input.
