Would you share a photo of flush flintlock (lock) panel?

[Larry (Omaha)]

Doing a build using a Chambers Ketland flintlock. The lock plate has no bevel and hence it will be inlet flush with the side panel. My previous builds had locks with beveled side plates allowing for less trimming of the side panel at the cock arc zone. Now, with this Ketland there is a greater depth of panel to trim in order for the cock to arc freely. If anyone would share a photo of the proper way to reduce the panel in the arc zone, it would very much be appreciated.
Thanks in advance
Larry

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

Put a bevel on that lock plate. I don't know why Chambers ever produced that lock with out one.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

Put a bevel on that lock plate. I don't know why Chambers ever produced that lock with out one.

Thanks Mike! Good looking lock and panel. I am not real strict about HC, but since I am making a sighted smooth bore long gun, do I dare bevel the lock? Don't want any shi_ from my buddies. LOL
Larry

 

[BJHabermehl]

Thanks Mike! Good looking lock and panel. I am not real strict about HC, but since I am making a sighted smooth bore long gun, do I dare bevel the lock? Don't want any shi_ from my buddies. LOL
Larry

Absolutely. Bevel away.

 

[Hiverano]

 

[Comfortably_Numb]

An early style Kentland SHOULD have a bevel.

 

[Eric Krewson]

I prefer to taper the lock panel towards the barrel instead of cutting a notch for the cock travel. I do this just a little at a time checking often for cock clearance. Once you have enough clearance this taper is invisible unless you really look hard.

The taper starts at the front of the tang bolt head and goes to lock fence.

 

[54ball]

I prefer to taper the lock panel towards the barrel instead of cutting a notch for the cock travel. I do this just a little at a time checking often for cock clearance. Once you have enough clearance this taper is invisible unless you really look hard.

The taper starts at the front of the tang bolt head and goes to lock fence.

View attachment 271235

I will add to Eric’s excellent comment...
Using proper architecture most of the cock clearance notch will be gone

With the flat tang at the top the top edge of the stock should angle flat down to match the top of the barrel side flat
In other words the side flat line should continue in the stock as the tops of the lock and side panels. This line can even be slightly lower.
Done this way, most of the clearance notch will be gone except where the cock rests on the lock bolster.
This will leave just a notch there and not a long cut out....
Your results may vary.

 

[Larry (Omaha)]

I will add to Eric’s excellent comment...
Using proper architecture most of the cock clearance notch will be gone

With the flat tang at the top the top edge of the stock should angle flat down to match the top of the barrel side flat
In other words the side flat line should continue in the stock as the tops of the lock and side panels. This line can even be slightly lower.
Done this way, most of the clearance notch will be gone except where the cock rests on the lock bolster.
This will leave just a notch there and not a long cut out....
Your results may vary.

Thank you! Sounds good, but I have a 48" tapered round barrel, no flats. I assume the proportions would still be the same. I am leaning toward beveling the lock plate as said by others which will help lessen the cock/side panel transition.
Larry

 

[Hatchet-Jack]

I was taught to put a bevel on lock plates about half way the thickness, and if they already have a bevel to clean them up with files so they look nice an uniform. Also put a slight "Cant" on the straight which helps make a nice fit when inletting it. Putting that cant on everything you are inletting is a general practice for me.

 

[Flint62Smoothie]

That ‘cant’ is usually termed as filing in a ‘draft’ on a piece.

 

[54ball]

The lock mortise for an early Ketland.
The bevel on the lock plate has nothing to do with stock/lock panel clearance.
You can see here that the lock panel is being brought down and all there is is just a notch where the cock rests on the top of the plate.
You can just see a little dimple in stock above the lock panel. That was a big trench before I rasped down to the lock panel line.
That dimple will soon disappear leaving only the cock notch.

 

[54ball]

This is a later lock. It’s not the Late Ketland but I did style it like the Late 18th Early 19th Century Import locks.
This is a later rifle and you can see where the wood is relieved above the lock plate.
It’s a later rifle with a later lock.
It’s a different method for cock clearance.

Note too, that the lock panel is beveled except for the tail which is flush with the wood. This is typical with early19th Century locks.

 

[PathfinderNC]

I don’t think there should be any “ notch” in the panel where the lock falls onto the plate.
The first photo is of a late 18th century pistol. Note how ghe moulding fades into the top of the lock plate at the cock rest.
The second is one of my guns. Notice no notch cut into the top of the panel where the cock passes over.