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Would your flintrock rifle make a good club?

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Got timed out on editing...make sure the threaded rod is cut to the correct length prior to acra, and clamp the whole with a piece of scrap wood that will eventually get cut out after the drying, everything needs to be clamping up as well..you would then have to come back to fill back in what drilling the hole for the threaded rod removed from your breech plug inlet towards the bottom...more acra, releasing agent on the barrel and breech plug assembly, and modeling clay over the part of your barrel channel that is removed for the lock inlay just in case some of it leaks out.
 
I think rifles have been used for clubs when the need for one arose since their invention.If you lived through the event you fixed your "club" or traded for another.
 
I broke one stock at the wrist thru an accident. The two pieces were reattached with extra heavy duty "pine pitch", then wrapped with a thin brass plate. Curiously, the rifle seemed to shoot better after the repair than before.
Also, I have used my Charleville to block 'hawk blows from a native American. The musket was held by the barrel and wrist area to block the 'hawk. Dents can be seen in the fore end.
 
Obi-Wan Cannoli said:
I would recommend taking it to a professional to repair...but:

On a traditional Penn/Ken longrifle, you would have to get really wide threaded rod stock, mark where the hole for your tang bolt intercepts intercept the middle of the threaded rod when it is placed in the hole drilled to receive the threaded rod, take it out, drill it at the same angle to allow the tang bolt to eventually pass through, file a bit of length and width on the inside of the hole you drilled in the middle of the threaded rod to allow for expansion and contraction, and double check to make sure everything still lines up PRIOR to acraglassing it in.

Got timed out on editing...make sure the threaded rod is cut to the correct length prior to acra, and clamp the whole with a piece of scrap wood that will eventually get cut out after the drying, everything needs to be clamping up as well..you would then have to come back to fill back in what drilling the hole for the threaded rod removed from your breech plug inlet towards the bottom...more acra, releasing agent on the barrel and breech plug assembly, and modeling clay over the part of your barrel channel that is removed for the lock inlay just in case some of it leaks out.

I "got around" the tang bolt in my shattered Brown Bess stock by using two 1/8" threaded brass rods in the stock, one on either side of the tang screw. As long as your holes are inside and run the length of the wrist, they will never be seen from the outside of the stock. (I went with this method as there is an additional screw in the wrist of a Brown Bess stock to hold the Thumbpiece in place on the wrist.)

OR one can take a 1/4" threaded brass rod and pound it flat in a section that will be drilled for the tang screw. Just remember you should anneal or soften the brass by heating to a cherry red and allowing it to "air cool" before and sometimes in between the pounding/flattening of the brass. Threaded rod gives a MUCH better grip for the Accraglas. I also "pre-stained" the Accraglas while I mixed it.

You don't need wood blocks to securely wrap/tighten the glued pieces, you wrap it with surgical tubing that easily comes off once the Accraglas is cured. http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...urgical-tubings/surgical-tubing-prod1221.aspx


OR if you must use wood or some kind of clamps, put wax paper between the wood or clamps and the glued stock wrist. The wax paper acts as a mold release so the wood or clamps don't stick.

Gus
 
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For the first swing, yes.

On the second swing it would probably be a much shorter club.
 
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