Troyfairweather
40 Cal
I didn't work on the books the last few years, and I live at home so my mom claimed me. So I don't get anything.
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Yet Another Kibler Longrifles Kit Build...
- Thread starter troy2000
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troy2000
45 Cal.
Let me say this again: you don't need to show any income to get a stimulus check. There's a maximum income limit, but no minimum; you only have to be over 18 and still breathing.
You need to go online and fill out a form. I'm on my way to bed, but tomorrow morning I'll go online and run down the website for you. I had this same discussion with my son, because he lives at home with his mother and has no income.
Troyfairweather
40 Cal
I tried one time, when I got to the part about it I was claimed as a dependent I couldn't go any farther.
troy2000
45 Cal.
Ouch. I think you're right; it didn't really sink in back when you told me your mother claimed you as a dependent. That's what did you in, not just being poor. Ah well...
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Troyfairweather
40 Cal
Ya it sucks lol. Hard to save up with bills and all. I may sell some stuff to help with the price. Oh don't think I seen what wood grade did you get.
I'd like to do a 36 for a squirrel rifle but the 45 will be for deer and small game if needed.
troy2000
45 Cal.
I ordered the extra fancy maple. And I'd say I got my money's worth...
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Troy,
you’ll love it when it’s finished. There are photos of the original available on line, if you’d like to see the original. Again, very simple, but elegant in it’s simplicity. It very skinny, and light, with a beautiful profile.
you’ll love it when it’s finished. There are photos of the original available on line, if you’d like to see the original. Again, very simple, but elegant in it’s simplicity. It very skinny, and light, with a beautiful profile.
Bob McBride
54 Cal.
I did too. Kat hooked me up with a nice piece of flame-y maple. They would've been stocked mostly in Walnut in the South but sometimes you just have to deviate.....
Troyfairweather
40 Cal
I can't tell much difference between the fancy and the extra, think it's just my eye. Maybe in person I could.
Bob McBride
54 Cal.
Its basically a stripes per inch thing. The more the merrier.
Buckskinn
45 Cal.
This was a stock from Chamber's that was designated as a G7 on the receipt. I asked for best available and was not disappointed.
You and me both! Mine was supposed to be here last month, but Katherine said the barrel might be "a few weeks" yet.
troy2000
45 Cal.
I have this one assembled (temporarily, of course) as of this afternoon, except for the sights, butt plate and touch hole. I carried it down the street to have a beer with Danny, the guy I'm renting my shop from, and he was blown away by how light and graceful it is. I haven't trimmed any of the pins yet; I'm saving that for final assembly. So his buddy, who was sitting outside with him watching the quail come up to eat scattered birdseed, looked at it and asked, "so what are you gonna do with it in between shooting things, Troy? Rake hay?"
I'll try to put a couple of pics up tomorrow, along with a description of how things went. Not quite as smooth as some of the build, although I can't really blame the kit.
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Doc Ivory
45 Cal.
They've not only got a back up but COVID hammered the barrel maker so their backed up as well.
I'll just play tuba until my kit comes....
troy2000
45 Cal.
Woke up this weekend after a good night's sleep, all full of piss and vinegar and ready to tackle this project head on after my second cup of coffee. Should've known better. You don't go charging up and confront something like this gun. You kind of sneak up on it slow and easy, give it time to get used to your presence, then slowly ease into working on it...
I set out to mark the holes in the barrel lugs, by running a drill bit into the existing holes in the stock. Jim calls for a 1/16" drill bit, but the holes seemed smaller than that. I have a complete set of numbered bits, so I should've moved down to the right size to fit the holes and get a mark. Instead ,I decided to use the larger bit and ream the holes out as I went - and didn't manage to follow them properly. All four times, I tilted the bit a little towards the barrel. The marks came out right up against the bases of the lugs. That should've told me something, but I was in 'giterdone' mode...
I went ahead and pulled the wood, drilled the holes as marked, and slotted them with a jeweler's saw. Even though a couple of the holes were partially into the lug bases, it was slow sinking in that it might be because I screwed up. So I just filed the bases down a little. Then I reinstalled the barrel, and started driving pins. Because I had figured out by now I had drilled the holes angling toward the barrel, I decided to sharpen the pins pretty thoroughly, theorizing that would help them turn the corner through the lugs and follow the holes on the other side. Nope... what it did was turn them into nails, and they cheerfully ignored the holes on the other side of the lugs and came out through the wood beside them. And of course I drove all four pins in one go, without turning the gun over to see the results. So each pin hole has another hole beside it... I have no doubt I can fix that so no one but me ever notices it, but it will always be an embarrassing reminder of what happens when I get in a hurry. I pulled the pins and drove them through from the other side, and this time they came out through the holes I had reamed on the first side.
As mentioned, I used a jeweler's saw to slot the lug holes. Anyone who's familiar with jeweler's saws knows that if you use one on hard metal, you're going to break blades. If that anyone happens to be me, they might break a lot of blades... Then I gave up and bought a set of needle files, so I could properly clean up the slots. I put the barrel back in the stock, and prepared to tackle the butt plate.
I set out to mark the holes in the barrel lugs, by running a drill bit into the existing holes in the stock. Jim calls for a 1/16" drill bit, but the holes seemed smaller than that. I have a complete set of numbered bits, so I should've moved down to the right size to fit the holes and get a mark. Instead ,I decided to use the larger bit and ream the holes out as I went - and didn't manage to follow them properly. All four times, I tilted the bit a little towards the barrel. The marks came out right up against the bases of the lugs. That should've told me something, but I was in 'giterdone' mode...
I went ahead and pulled the wood, drilled the holes as marked, and slotted them with a jeweler's saw. Even though a couple of the holes were partially into the lug bases, it was slow sinking in that it might be because I screwed up. So I just filed the bases down a little. Then I reinstalled the barrel, and started driving pins. Because I had figured out by now I had drilled the holes angling toward the barrel, I decided to sharpen the pins pretty thoroughly, theorizing that would help them turn the corner through the lugs and follow the holes on the other side. Nope... what it did was turn them into nails, and they cheerfully ignored the holes on the other side of the lugs and came out through the wood beside them. And of course I drove all four pins in one go, without turning the gun over to see the results. So each pin hole has another hole beside it... I have no doubt I can fix that so no one but me ever notices it, but it will always be an embarrassing reminder of what happens when I get in a hurry. I pulled the pins and drove them through from the other side, and this time they came out through the holes I had reamed on the first side.
As mentioned, I used a jeweler's saw to slot the lug holes. Anyone who's familiar with jeweler's saws knows that if you use one on hard metal, you're going to break blades. If that anyone happens to be me, they might break a lot of blades... Then I gave up and bought a set of needle files, so I could properly clean up the slots. I put the barrel back in the stock, and prepared to tackle the butt plate.
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troy2000
45 Cal.
I ordered some iron nitrate for the stock and tarnishing solution for the metal parts from Kibler Longrifles, and it arrived the other day. After fitting the butt plate, I think next I'll tackle draw filing the barrel. My work bench is directly in front of the swamp cooler for my shop, and between the humid air and my hand prints, the barrel is starting to show some rust. I don't think there's any pitting yet, but I should draw file the barrel, use the tarnishing solution, and get a light coat of oil on it.
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Love to see your progress.
Looking to invest in one of these beasts myself.
I believe the barrels are a very good finish and only require the smallest amount to drawfile so take it easy and careful not to angle the file.
Using a marker on the barrel will tell you how you are going.
Surface rust isn't an issue. Isn't that just tarnish anyway?
If you are trying to maintain a lightly tarnished finish a "light oil" may not cut it.
I am far from an expert but have found leather dubbin to work very well. Too well. Struggled to re brown a barrel.
Looking to invest in one of these beasts myself.
I believe the barrels are a very good finish and only require the smallest amount to drawfile so take it easy and careful not to angle the file.
Using a marker on the barrel will tell you how you are going.
Surface rust isn't an issue. Isn't that just tarnish anyway?
If you are trying to maintain a lightly tarnished finish a "light oil" may not cut it.
I am far from an expert but have found leather dubbin to work very well. Too well. Struggled to re brown a barrel.
My Colonial kit came with the new Green Mountain barrel. The finish is so good I’m trying to decide whether to draw file or not.
Doc Ivory
45 Cal.
troy2000
45 Cal.
Nice. I was hoping for one on my SMR, but it didn't work out that way. Can't exactly complain about having a Rice barrel, though.
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