YOUR projects

[Sicilian Hunter]

I force patina’d a couple of my brass accessories. I really like the look, and plan to do the same to more muzzle loading brass accessories. Maybe even some of the parts to my pistols...
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What did you use?

 

[DevilsLuck]

What did you use?

I filled an old plastic coffee can with an inch of clear ammonia, and a paper towel. Then I sprinkled two pinches of kosher salt into the can. Then I suspended the parts, with a wire, above the ammonia. I sprayed the parts with ammonia, sprinkled the same salt on them, another light spray of ammonia after that; then sealed the can, and let it sit out in the sun all day. When I got home later that night, I dunked all the parts in baking soda, and water to stop the reaction. Then rinsed the parts off...

 

[Treestalker]

Here is the beginning of a southern mountain 'bear pistol'. The barrel is a .50 cal. Lyman 18" long x 15/16ths. the stock I ordered from track as a plain maple but it grew stripes on the way to Arkansas. The lock is a large Siler percussion (now modified front and back) and a single trigger (not shown) was obtained at the Berryville shoot. Hopefully my daughter Mel can help me get an update picture soon. The pistol is basically together, I had to make a breech plug from scratch.

 

[Zonie]

I filled an old plastic coffee can with an inch of clear ammonia, and a paper towel. Then I sprinkled two pinches of kosher salt into the can. Then I suspended the parts, with a wire, above the ammonia. I sprayed the parts with ammonia, sprinkled the same salt on them, another light spray of ammonia after that; then sealed the can, and let it sit out in the sun all day. When I got home later that night, I dunked all the parts in baking soda, and water to stop the reaction. Then rinsed the parts off...

Just a word to folks who want to try using ammonia vapor to "age" their brass parts.

Although this really works it has one rather bad effect other than darkening the brass. It creates microscopic cracks in the surface.
With a part that doesn't have any real stress on it like an inlay, these cracks don't matter.

On something like a trigger guard that has to be bent slightly to get it into the stock, the stress caused by bending it can make the cracks grow until the part cracks or breaks.

Be careful where you use this method.

 

[tenngun]

Just finishing a shooting bag that I started before my coat material got in, os should I say near finish as I have to even the collar up a bit

 

[Sicilian Hunter]

I filled an old plastic coffee can with an inch of clear ammonia, and a paper towel. Then I sprinkled two pinches of kosher salt into the can. Then I suspended the parts, with a wire, above the ammonia. I sprayed the parts with ammonia, sprinkled the same salt on them, another light spray of ammonia after that; then sealed the can, and let it sit out in the sun all day. When I got home later that night, I dunked all the parts in baking soda, and water to stop the reaction. Then rinsed the parts off...

That's a new method to me although I've heard of it before I've never tried it.

 

[WRustyLane]

Nice looking bag, Tenngun. I like it!

 

[tenngun]

Thanks

 

[DevilsLuck]

That's a new method to me although I've heard of it before I've never tried it.

Simple. Easy. Quick. Done with materials you Lily have A round the house. Of you want just black, without the blue tones; forego the salt. I've blackened brass with this method a number of times. If left for a few days in just straight ammonia gas, in a polished, degreased piece of brass... You can get a very black smooth shiny finish that can rival steel blueing. If you want to bring out more purple/red tones; instead of salt use copper sulfate. (crystallized miracle gro).

That's a new method to me although I've heard of it before I've never tried it.

Copper and brass, are very versatile, and reactive metals. With the right chemistry you can produce some rather brilliant colors. Forego the salt, and use the same method, left suspended for days... Can produce a very deep, dark, solid black. Rivaling blueing on steel. If you want more purples, and pinks..? Replace the ammonia with distilled water, and the salt with copper sulfate, and adjust your time to your preference for coloration. I use actual pure copper sulfate, (mail order or green house should have it. Root kill from big box stores works well.)but have heard that the miracle gro crystals achieve the same effect.

 

[DevilsLuck]

That's a new method to me although I've heard of it before I've never tried it.

What method are you familiar with?

 

[Bad Karma]

Just a word to folks who want to try using ammonia vapor to "age" their brass parts.

Although this really works it has one rather bad effect other than darkening the brass. It creates microscopic cracks in the surface.
With a part that doesn't have any real stress on it like an inlay, these cracks don't matter.

On something like a trigger guard that has to be bent slightly to get it into the stock, the stress caused by bending it can make the cracks grow until the part cracks or breaks.

Be careful where you use this method.

Thanks for the heads up. I was not aware of this although I’ve used this process many times aging brass furniture fittings for reproduction furniture. As you’d expect, it’s not really an issue for heavier and thicker cast and polished parts and inlays. I have used it to apply a starter patina on trigger guards etc without trouble but without the added salts and heat after 24 hours they look, used, and then with actual use a very nice patina will develop.

 

[DevilsLuck]

Thanks for the heads up. I was not aware of this although I’ve used this process many times aging brass furniture fittings for reproduction furniture. As you’d expect, it’s not really an issue for heavier and thicker cast and polished parts and inlays. I have used it to apply a starter patina on trigger guards etc without trouble but without the added salts and heat after 24 hours they look, used, and then with actual use a very nice patina will develop.

Where I first heard of ammonia induced stress on brass was in the realm of clockmakers, and repair. Given the very small size, and delicate nature of the brass parts that comprise the movement; many such specialists started noticing parts failures after cleaning with ammonia based cleaners. While I’m no expert by any means; on the pieces I tinker with; tiny surface cracks don’t comprise any meaningful percentage of overall thickness. Very different than the works, cogs, and gears of clocks, and watches. Where the same compromise constitutes a measurable percentage.

 

[Sicilian Hunter]

What method are you familiar with?

So far for forcing a patina I've only done it with steel and soaking it in vinegar until I started looking for a faster method to rust trap to get them ready for dyeing.
I found this:


It works really well but I must warn you that it works so well the spring in the pump on the spray bottle I used disintegrated over a short time.
I haven't tried it on any other metal however

 

[Flycaster1977]

Building a squirrel rifle. .36 cal

 

[Flycaster1977]

Working on this for a friend. Still a good bit of work left. Bog oak and leather handle, damascus blade.

 

[Drkhorse]

Here’s a shooting bag and belt bag I made for my 50 cal Kentucky.

 

[Brokennock]

Here’s a shooting bag and belt bag I made for my 50 cal Kentucky.

Good stuff. I especially like the belt bag. Making one is on my "to do" list.

 

[Crane Senior]

Here’s a shooting bag and belt bag I made for my 50 cal Kentucky.

That is excellent, well done.

 

[Artie Peltier]

Oh! Had enough leather left over from other projects I made old son a new pouch for his new rifle.

Great looking bag! He’s a lucky guy