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Using the handy dandy Hershel House patented depth gauge mark along the side many times the barrel channel depth , mark your breech and you forearm length .... then below the barrel bottom line , mark a straight line 3/16" below the barrel line , then a line 3/8" below that one .... The 3/16" is your web of wood and the 3/8" is your ramrod hole and channel .... Forward of the forearm , entry hole , youll strike a line right down the middle of that ramrod hole .... 3/16 , thats your ramrod channel ..... I will slab that off first .....
 
.....
 

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Rob M. said:
Ok then , she's down and done .... The top shows she's down and there is no gap at breech and it doesnt move forward , making gap , when I tap down at breech and I'm getting black marks at breech in barrel channel , she's down. So ....the end of tang is high . No biggy but want to explain options ...you can put tang in vice and bend twwek the tag a smidge and start bedding the tang again , BLAH !! or call it done and later file it down flush with wood , its plenty thick there and bolt doesnt go near end anyway so .....breech is bedded !
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Rob it’s making more sense with every build,carry on sir.Some day every one well of heard of Rob miller the trade gun guy .Your posts are very informative,you should think about writing a book on building a trade gun sorta like Pryer Bill.😉
 
Slab off extra wood on bottom of fore stock , and then draw line from front of lock position ( south paw ) to muzzle ....slab that off
 

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Find your center at muzzle and at entry into fore stock , mark it , I use calipers and try from both sides , eye ball at muzzle end ....draw your center line ....sharpen up your 3/8 " gouge .....
 

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Ok ...got the rough ramrod channel in ...Tomorrow I'll clean it up , check depth etc. then drill the ramrod hole through the forearm .... done for today ....
 

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Rob M. said:
Ok ...got the rough ramrod channel in ...Tomorrow I'll clean it up , check depth etc. then drill the ramrod hole through the forearm .... done for today ....
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Rob do you do the same as the barrel channel,start at hole entry an work toward muzzle.Did you slab that lock side off by hand by chance.
 
This one I started just in front of the entry hole and went forward but you can go either direction doesnt matter , just go in the direction where the grain is not fighting you , bucking the grain . No , I used my band saw to slab it all off ...and it did a $#itty job ...
WALT53 said:
Rob do you do the same as the barrel channel,start at hole entry an work toward muzzle.Did you slab that lock side off by hand by chance.
Click to expand...
 
Ok so , at the entry this side is high , d@mn band saw , so gotta take it down , it'll throw off the drill bit . Gotta try and check to see how level the whole groove is too . Iif it tends to push the drill bit up , stock as pictured , the bit will go in wring direction. I hate when the drill goes into the barrel channel but it is preferable to it going low into the forearm . Straight would be optimum but ...good luck with that .
 

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Be smarter than me . If drilling for 48" ramrods use a 48" long drill not a 44" drill bit ...Lordy ..... wish I still drank .....SHEEW !!!
 
Ok , dreaded ramrod hole in forearm is done and is actually darn good up and down ....hopefully didn't go toward the lock like the last two guns BUT .....we'll see later .....
 
Clamp your barrel in , start marking lugs , ramrod pipe and sight positions ..... When done take out barrel ....time to make lugs and solder them on the barrel ... Sight goes on after wood is shaped .....
 
A DeWalt brad-point drill on the end of your drill rod helps prevent the hole from wandering.......as long as it starts straight.

When I get through servicing the upstairs air conditioner I'll get mine done and post some photos.
 
...making lugs and start soldering them to barrel ....
 

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What kind of flux do you use, Rob? I've been using some Oatey manure made for copper pipes and it works sorta okay if I keep hosing it on there while trying to get the solder to flow. Once it boils off the solder just balls up on the steel.
 

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