Carolina Gun / Iron mounted

[Rob M.]

...lock plate is down to final , no space between pan and barrel , sometimes.es has to be cleaned up there a little but thats later ..market center line on bottom of stock ..... With plate down use undersized bit and drill down each hole in plate , remove plate and trace all parts using holes as guides , drill sear hole first just past center line , hog out all wood for parts in lock to fit and move . When cock is on lock and lock in place trace the neck of cock above on the wood , that wood has to be removed .... Mark in front of cock in bolster , in middle for middle S.P. screw ...punch mark it , drill undersize through plate .... Drill all way through with.138 drill bit , clamp barrel down first ...still all day through to other side , then remove plate and drill 3/16" all way through ...replace plate , long tap through S.P. side and tap the plate 8/32 .... Mark front screw position , forward as possible and so it'll go through wood web misdi g R.R. hole and barrel .... Drill like middle screw ....through plate tap drill size , then remove plate and 3/16 the tap the front hole .... Mark bottom of stock with sear rm position , between these marks light punch marks then drill up the sear hole , .092 bit ....clean up that slot with bit then with thin chisel , open it so you can trip sear with screw driver later ...we'll open it up bigger and wider later .....

 

[Rob M.]

After bolts are drilled , slab off the extra wood on S.P. side .... Then cut t bolts down to size ...check function of lock . Reassemble lock , blacken inside ...put innmortice , tap down , remove , then remove black marks ... Wood above lock will have to be remove for the cock to function / move , blacken it where it hits wood ...keep doing this till lock functions ....youll have to remove some wood around mortice edges too ....

 

[Rob M.]

....till lock is working correctly ....

 

[Rob M.]

Like so .....

 

[Polecat_Tom]

Rob, you should start a gun building class. This is most educational and fun to watch.

 

[Rob M.]

Rob, you should start a gun building class. This is most educational and fun to watch.

Thanks bud. Thats kinda what I'm doing here and reaching a lot of folks it seems . Pretty wild concept for a backwoods , low tech hill jack that has to bribe a teen age to to get his phone to workin when ever I gotta buy a new one .....who'd a thought ?!!! LOL ...

 

[WALT53]

After bolts are drilled , slab off the extra wood on S.P. side .... Then cut t bolts down to size ...check function of lock . Reassemble lock , blacken inside ...put innmortice , tap down , remove , then remove black marks ... Wood above lock will have to be remove for the cock to function / move , blacken it where it hits wood ...keep doing this till lock functions ....youll have to remove some wood around mortice edges too ....

Rob is that centre bolt placed in the centre of the bolsterand so it is not touching or real close to end of the barrel In breach plug.

 

[Rob M.]

Forging a trigger is an easy first forge job , fun too, 3/4 wide stock ...leave long while working , cold forge . Trace pattern , ball peen the finger pad part flat , file edges rounded slightly , file smooth flat , hack saw cut out shape , grind to finish , cut off trigger from long stock ... File edges clean .....

 

[Rob M.]

1/8" thick stock I use ...always make the trigger too long , extra can always be cut off .... Cut and curl.later when fitting trigger guard to stock ....tomorrow I'll fit , drill and pin trigger to the stock ....

 

[Rob M.]

Rob is that centre bolt placed in the centre of the bolsterand so it is not touching or real close to end of the barrel In breach plug.

Yeah , it goes right through the bolster . Ive had them come close to the barrel , no concern , but try not to hit the barrel ....

 

[Rob M.]

Rob is that centre bolt placed in the centre of the bolsterand so it is not touching or real close to end of the barrel In breach plug.

The hole for middle S.P. bolt . up and down , its in the middle of the lock bolster , I measured width of bolster with calibers , divided in half then scribed line , then , fore and aft ... There is this little ledge in front of cock and I give space from flash guard at pan , kinda center it ...that flash guard I always put right at edge of wood , but I double check to to make sure ain't too close the barrel ....then drill . Do all your drilling before you slab off the side plate side , makes for good accurate drilling , everything is 90 degrees .

 

[Rob M.]

Mark your lock.bolts ... I use tri corner file

 

[Rob M.]

Ok , mark your center line on bottom , full length , your trigger slot is started but is length of the width of sear hole , needs to be longer .... Use tools shown ,1/8" chisel , even skinnier chisel and modified short file with a safe edge and side , group d thin ( my design ) .... You have to lengthen slot forward for hinge pin to fit and be drilled there , do that first . Chisel straight down for these , can be difficult to get tool out sometimes ....once its forward enough for pin then go back ....when you get length needed for for depth and width. try hard to keep the ends square , they want to taper in , bad esp. up front . Keep it straight and square up front .... Once the trigger fits in there and goes into the sear hole , put lock in and check it touches and can push and trip sear .... Keep cleaning it out till it does .....

 

[Rob M.]

You have to take off the extra wood under the lock at trigger position , its fat there , rasp it there up and down till is down good . Dont need a thick gun . Keep checking your ramrod hole lines while taking off excess wood at bottom. Keep working trigger slot ....Once the trigger is working then you need to grind the excess off the top of the trigger , keeping g the angle . Grind top of trigger until it sets in the slot deep up to where the pad starts . Debur and check fit . put lock in , push trigger up and forward and hold ....remove lock . Hold the trigger solid , mooving ,, and kind of draw front of trigger , where it is while trigger is in slot . In top fro t corner center punch lightly . With drill ready , lock back in , push trigger up and forward , hold tight , remove lock , drill at mark , mark trigger .....then remove trigger , drill , complete hole at mark , then trigger back in slot and line it up ....drill through , out other side .... Make trigger pin , cut off finish nail , check how it works tripping lock

 

[Rob M.]

.....

 

[Rob M.]

When you set your trigger do it at half cock ...no slop. I cleaned up the pan a bit at the T.H.

 

[Rob M.]

Once trigger is done measure your length of pull and cut the stock to it ....

 

[Rob M.]

Now .....break out the patterns. I laid out and drew out all the parts I need to make on brass stock., trigger guard ,thumb plate ,buttplate and side plate ..... tomorrow I'll rough cut them out then careful cut and shape each one but one at a time . Wanna get the buttplate cut out , refined ,made and put on the stock first . Then I can rough shape the buttstock. after that ..... then I'll start the other brass parts

 

[IanH]

Good call on the pan mod. My LH QA lock would hangfire or flash a lot, I think the scallop was throwing the heat over the TH until I lowered the edge a little and blended it back into the middle of the pan. After that, problem solved (I had already fixed a laundry list of problems with the lock, hope yours is better).

 

[WALT53]

When you set your trigger do it at half cock ...no slop. I cleaned up the pan a bit at the T.H.

Yup an L&R lock, can’t wait to try a Davis an no fiddling .