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What kind of flux do you use, Rob? I've been using some Oatey manure made for copper pipes and it works sorta okay if I keep hosing it on there while trying to get the solder to flow. Once it boils off the solder just balls up on the steel.
Gel flux or paste flux ...only one that works for me .
What kind of flux do you use, Rob? I've been using some Oatey manure made for copper pipes and it works sorta okay if I keep hosing it on there while trying to get the solder to flow. Once it boils off the solder just balls up on the steel.
 

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Solder lugs on barrel , at spots marked ...look down length of barrel often to try and get them straight and centered as possible ....when done , let them cool , alcohol them , wipe clean and file bottom of them flat ... I make mylugs out of .035 stock
 

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Inlet black each lug , center in stock , tap muzzle to breech , lightly , tap down at rack lug mark on top of barrel lightly , remove barrel look for lug marks . If the whole length of lug marks the wood made these lines at each end ....you will use the 1/8" chisel for the lug proper and the 1/4 for lug base .... Tale 1/8 chisel and cut straight down on ends of lug and then remove black.length wise ...now lug will go deeper and soon lug base will start showing more you do this to each lug ....
 

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As lugs go down , keep repeating process, black on lugs , tap each one , remove barrel , remove black spots , the based will start leaving black ....make these lines now . use 1/4 chisel and chisel straight down on base outlines ...then remove black sideways to the edged you've established .....inlet black on barrel proper too because when the barrel tennon / lug quits showing black in the deep slot and the black on the barrel starts showing up and look at your breeck at tang , you are down and done bedding for lugs . Now keep looking for gap at breech and tapping muzzle with wood , no gap back there !!
 

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Mark ea hlug position on the stock and then down the side , then with gauge make sure mark for bottom of barrel is correct , mine was off a bit on two lugs .... Center punch light in wood JUST below barrel bottom at lug positions ... Put clamp at each lug position , make sure you beat the muzzle , with wood , to take up any gap at breech . Tighten clamps but not stupidtight to bend barrel ,check breech gap again ...
 

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Ive built a lot of kits and hate drilling the forearms when they are round , ignorant . These square fore stocks are great for accurate and square drilling ... Hard to hold that stock on the most forward ljug though ! Geesh !!! . I use a .076 drill and drill each one ... These turned out good . After drilling g remove barrel de burr lugs on side's and then replace barrel and pins , fi ish nails .. . I have a real long.078 drill bit to drill out the other side of the stock , then done .....
 

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Ive built a lot of kits and hate drilling the forearms when they are round , ignorant . These square fore stocks are great for accurate and square drilling ... Hard to hold
I had access to a milling machine when I first started making guns and the round stock wasn't a problem. After I loss access to it I don't know how many I made with the round stock before I figured out to drill while the stock was square.
 
L&R Queen Anne lock. Left hand. Its a darn better lock than the right hand version , go figure....disassemble it . Measure thickness of bolster , widest part of lock and scribe on wood the length of lock , slab this wood off with saw ...now mark length of lock and remark your lines for barrel bottom and web ...Mark the breech face on barrel , and proposed touch hole , then drill through wood so you can see it and aim for it . barrel back in...mark where mainspring ends , front of spring , on front lock plate , any where forward of this is good for front lock bolt . Try to make lock plate eve. , looking g good and front where front bolt through web can hit sweet spot on front of plate ...the pencil mark flash fence , top of bolster front and rear of bolster ....take off plate measure bolster height , mark , then scribe line for bottom of bolster .... Inlet this down to the barrel . When you get close to barrel use old chisel , sacrifice chisel , so you dont hurt your good chisel
 

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.....
 

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Ok , so I have to bolster inlet all the way to the barrel , I have it in the optimum angle for TH , middle screw , front screw and to look good and even so ....I out lined the lock plate and tomorrow will start inlettingthr lock.plate down till the bolster comes in contact with the barrel flat .... Cool beans .. .. Gotta go mow some now...
 

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The phone is really screwing up sorry ....won't post pics , then it will , then I select 5 pics and it posts 1 pics , then next it posts lots of pics all mixed up order .... D@mn thing ....any who .....I'll try and post pics of lock.plate down , in position , bolster inlet , plate ready to be started on inlet to barrel .....
 

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Good work, Rob.

I got my lock all the way down last night but have obbligations today and am stalled waiting on some parts to get here.
Waiting to see the picture of drill bit you use for the ram rod channel and where you got it Ian H.
 
.... When I get close to bolster touching the barrel then I inlet black the plate to get it leveled out , etc.
 

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