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Triple 7 3f

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atvguns

atvguns

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Has anyone found triple 7 3f to be accurate ? I have tried several combinations in a 32 caliber with no luck. Gun Shoots 1 inch groups with black powder but have to clean between shots and the triple seven you can shoot 10 times without worring about cleaning but can't get better than a two inch group.
 
I have some .32 rifles and 2 pistols. Fun to shoot but finicky. I have used T7 and like it, but only use it in the small bore rifles for the reasons you said. I shoot 28 grains of T7 or Swiss 3f. How much powder are you using? I use a damp .012 patch and .311 balls. In a .32 Green Mtn. barrel I had T7 sometimes would blo patches. I had that barrel re-bored to .40 cal with round bottom rifeling. I shoot it more now than I did as a .32. The .32 was best at 25 yards, OK at 50 but I never tried it on the 100 yard targets.
 
1sgt said:
I have some .32 rifles and 2 pistols. Fun to shoot but finicky. I have used T7 and like it, but only use it in the small bore rifles for the reasons you said. I shoot 28 grains of T7 or Swiss 3f. How much powder are you using? I use a damp .012 patch and .311 balls. In a .32 Green Mtn. barrel I had T7 sometimes would blo patches. I had that barrel re-bored to .40 cal with round bottom rifeling. I shoot it more now than I did as a .32. The .32 was best at 25 yards, OK at 50 but I never tried it on the 100 yard targets.
Click to expand...
I have tried 20 grains and 15 grains both compressed and just touching. 310 balls and 315 balls .010 patch and .015 patch in every combination
 
I look for the shot patches 8 to 10 yards out. When you find them it will be helpful to determine part of what is causing the problem. When the patch and lube are working together you will find the patch without shredding or tearing and I have turned them over and used them again.
 
If you can't find em they are blowing apart. More/different lube and less powder. My crocket 's first 4 shots at 20 yds were perfect cloverleaf. I believe it was 12 gr? I would have used spit or Hoppes # 9 black powder lube and cleaner. Make sure the Hoppes says black powder (they make a solvent for those other things we don't speak of).
 
azmntman said:
If you can't find em they are blowing apart. More/different lube and less powder. My crocket 's first 4 shots at 20 yds were perfect cloverleaf. I believe it was 12 gr? I would have used spit or Hoppes # 9 black powder lube and cleaner. Make sure the Hoppes says black powder (they make a solvent for those other things we don't speak of).
Click to expand...
Ok I will give it a try
 
In my 32s I use an oversized (3/8” dia) dry hard felt wad over the powder and an almost sloppy wet patch around the ball. I can pretty much shoot until I get tired or run out of components. Find the oversized wad seals the bore and protects the 12-15 grain charge of 4F or 3F Swiss from the wet patch. Doesn’t take much to foul a 12 grain powder charge. The wet patch clears powder residue from the previous shot as I load.
 
I can't speak for the small bores, but t-7, 3f seems to shoot pretty close to the same in my two 50 cal Traditions. One is a Woodsman, the other a St. Louis. For all practical purposes, the same rifle. I use 70 grains of either t-7 effectively with 3 different projectiles; PRB, Pa Conical and Great Plains. I will pay closer attention next time out but have not seen any problem.
SW
 
Triple 7 is an excellent BP substitute powder…for me it’s been the least compression sensitive of the substitutes….T7 seems to have slightly more energy than real BP, so a little less is needed to duplicate a load developed with BP….
My guess is the extra umph of T7 is blow torching your patches , given that you can’t find any…T7 should work fine once you figure out the right charge/patch/ball size combo your gun likes.
 
I liked it and got good accuracy. When at the range it's not necessary to clean the bore once fouling builds up. A simple swab is all it takes. I buy cotton flannel and barely dampen it with alcohol. The fouling is loosened by the alcohol and is picked up by the flannel, removing 90% of it. Down and up, then discard the patch. I swab after every shot when I'm at the range but whatever suits you then that's great.
T-7 burns hotter than black, thus the need to try different amounts of patch lubes. Just don't overdue it. It is also more energetic than black so you should reduce your powder charge by 15% and work up from there. Reduce by 10% when using Triple Seven 2-f.
 
With my own .32 I cut my own patches from .023" canvas and don't have to wipe the bore until I go home. Just polish the barrel crown and the rest is easy. Hoppes is the lube of choice but TOTW mink oil worked when I still hunted. I've not found at all that small bores foul worse than larger ones.
 
T-7 like pyrodex is less dense than BP If memory serves a T7 50 grain charges weighs round 25-30 grains for a 32 I am guessing 10-13 grains would help your accuracy. also there is more of a push with the substitutes than BP, might also add to being 2-3 inches high/low
 
gunpa said:
I use it in my 54 calibers. Felt wads will save your patches. Works good 👍
Click to expand...
I'm thinking about using a quarter of a cotton ball under a PRB, with t-7, for the same reason. I have been using the cotton under a .50 card and PA Conical for hunting, to prevent lube contamination of the powder during extended periods when my rifle is loaded. This has not hurt accuracy a bit.
Any further thoughts on this gunpa ? SW
 
T-7 is a great powder sub but had squibs a few times. Whereas
Black consistently gives that instant crack bang. Pyrodex did not store well for me and gave inconsistent performance. In cases where you must absolutely rely upon ignition, go with 3-4f in a revolver and 2 -3f in a rifle. Stock up. Percussion caps are being reduced intentionally, as part of ESG guidelines. Best to all Great members.
 

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