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Lubricated wads versus non-lubricated wads

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He asked about "lubricated wads or non-lubricated wads that is the question and what is best for storing cap and ball Revolvers for long periods of time". I answered that question. Now get lost.
It’s the only protection I can own as a felon, the way the world is now I feel I need to have that type of protection.
I was just trying to help the OP based on his follow up response. My mistake reading all his posts on this thread….. Though it is odd you brought up your distain for using cap and ball revolvers for self defense if you were only answering his original question about lubricate wads??? Wonder where that came from? Clairvoyant maybe? Ok, per your request, I am now lost. No need to respond, we have all we need to know.
I would not consider a muzzle leader for self defense.
 
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Appreciate it that was what I was wondering. They’ll probably stay good for longer as long as no humidity gets to them because I will be using them for self-defense in the home. It’s the only protection I can own as a felon, the way the world is now I feel I need to have that type of protection.

My mistake also for not reading OP's post very good. I usually read every post well before posting, somehow this one slipped by me. I was wondering if this could be the reasoning.
 
There are people in this world who for various reasons are not allowed the use of cartridge firearms. Good on the OP for looking into a viable means of self and home defense. “No free man should be debarred the use of arms for self defense.” I read that somewhere and agree with it.
The cap and ball revolver is as viable a defensive tool today as it was in 1850 and beyond. @Smarksm I hope your question has been answered, take good care.
 
To get back to the OP's original 'IF' I were to leave a cap and ball revolver loaded for any period of time, I'd go with an unlubed wad. Some of the wads you can buy commercially state they are lubed, but it is a dry lube. I always relube them with one of my concoctions as I feel they don't have sufficient lube on them. OR-punch out wads from dry felt and use them unlubed, but that may run the risk of a small rust ring in the cylinder, can't say. What may be the best bet is to load powder and seat a tight lead ball over the powder, no risk of any lubed wad of any kind contaminating the powder. As long as the revolver is stored in a dry, preferably cool area there should be no danger of powder contamination. Question to the OP, would you plan on leaving it capped for quick use, maybe none on the nipple the hammer is resting on or leave it entirely uncapped. Ifin you had intentions of leaving it loaded for defensive purposes or fast critter control, not having it capped would IMO make it equal to throwing a rock as you may not have the opportunity/time to cap. BUT----As I stated in my previous post #7 there are better firearms available for any personal defensive or critter control. Ifin 'thee Ol rubber is meeting the road', any of my cap and balls 'if they were loaded', would be the last firearm I'd use, even any of my Dragoons or Walker (unless of course I'm out shooting and all I had were some of my cappers). If you just want a loaded percussion revolver all loaded up for the next time ya go shooting, loading before that adventure takes little time. JMO's. CC
If my capper was all that was available in the moment, then fine, me and my Remington will get to work, but again, only if was the only tool available or used as a backstop.
 
Remington or ruger old army....I really want one of the Remington double action revolvers. You hardly see them and I have
Never seen one in action....usually just the presence of a firearm is enough or one or two well Placed shots
 
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