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The Colt Open Top Hammer Sight

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I managed to file flush the front sight and drill it out with a 1/16” drill bit without too much damage. That’s a rarity for me. Now I need a piece of brass rod about .080” diameter to make a new post front sight. I can always taper it at the top for a finer sight picture if needed.
IMG_3476.png
 
Smokerr said:
I thought this was worth its own post as 45D and I had the same reaction to cutting the Hammer Sight Notch deeper, you are not changing anything.

My take was you also would have to grind down the area above the sight slot and lower the whole top to lower your POI. Seems like front sight fix is a lot better.

And to add in a 2 cents, looking at that slot on my 47 Walker (a sample of one so I don't say it applies to all Open Tops) is that its at the wrong angle.

Putting a thin ruler in that slot when the hammer is full cock, its rakes up at a 30-40 deg angle. So the only part you can see is the very top of that slot for a sight picture. Be curious if anyone has original Colt Open top pictures of the hammer sight notch.

I have cut mine open more left and right to get more of a view and it has helped. But I am working on it at the top area as any more depth would require cutting down in that small spot. I may do it but I do this stuff a bit at a time.

And being the odd ball that I am, I also upset the front sight, its still lodged in the slot but rotated up and will see how much that helps. I don't think it will come loose but will keep an eye on it and its range only so I have control over that, not something you would want to try for a field gun. I did that last night and both the filing and the front sight will be a test to see how it affects the all too high POI (well the rear is for sight picture and the front is for lowering POI)

I can also access it to measure it for when I get a piece of brass that I can make into a higher front sight and install it. Then I have to see how the sight picture is with square, or open up the left to right on the hammer more or taper the front sight like it is.
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I squared off the rear(hammer) sights in order to pick up the front sight quicker. In many cases I could not see the whole width of the front sight due to the narrow "V" shape of the rear notch. In the process I did deepen the rear notch a bit. I found this aided in quick sight acquisition(Cowboy Shooting) as well as more precise shooting

I also squared the rear sight notch on my 51 Uberti.
I cut the the notch down little by little until POI matched POA
I also filed the sides of the coned Shaped front sight so it looks like a square post from the rear ,,but still has the same profile fron the side .
It has replaced my S&W 17 for my small game hunting for anything under 25 yards I can make head shots on squirrels.
 
You can make a nice front sight from an old brass screw. Cut off the head, chuck the shaft in a drill (a drill press is better), and hold a flat file to it to get the shape and diameter you want. If you screw it up, just make a new one.

Tap it in place when done. If needed, you can use a little JB Weld, or similar, to hold it in place.

Take it to the range for a test fire. Bring a file with you.
 
CyrusP said:
I managed to file flush the front sight and drill it out with a 1/16” drill bit without too much damage. That’s a rarity for me. Now I need a piece of brass rod about .080” diameter to make a new post front sight. I can always taper it at the top for a finer sight picture if needed.
View attachment 344216
Click to expand...
It will give you a better sight picture and definition if you install a flat topped cylinder .080 in diameter and sight it in for a six o'clock hold at what ever yardage you decide on.
 
I agree with you. I don’t like the taper if I can help it, preferring the flat top as you describe. I can always widen the rear notch on the hammer a hair if I need to. Thanks.
 
IMG_3481.jpeg

That bugger sticks up.
IMG_3480.jpeg
25 yard rested group
IMG_3485.jpeg
15 yard offhand group.

I used the brass screw idea above and it worked beautifully. Also the flat topped cylinder idea. It sits high but I’m on at 15 and 25 yards.
 

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CyrusP said:
View attachment 344424
That bugger sticks up.
View attachment 344422
25 yard rested group
View attachment 344423
15 yard offhand group.

I used the brass screw idea above and it worked beautifully. Also the flat topped cylinder idea. It sits high but I’m on at 15 and 25 yards.
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Yeah, the post gives better definition and allows more accurate sighting of target or game in more light conditions than any other shape I can think of. I have learned though that cutting/filing a 45 degree back angle at the top rear will give you better lighting definition. The angle makes the sight light up instead of appearing black in low light.
The posts hold elevation better as well than does the pyramid shape.
 
Ok so here’s the next question: I’d like to bring this front sight down a bit for holster carry and overall practical reasons. If I up the velocity a bit with either 4f or more than 10 grains 3f, will that extra velocity potentially lower the impact point a bit too? Further, if I deepen/square the bottom of the notch in the hammer a bit, would that help, hurt or make no difference? Thanks in advance.
 
CyrusP said:
Ok so here’s the next question: I’d like to bring this front sight down a bit for holster carry and overall practical reasons. If I up the velocity a bit with either 4f or more than 10 grains 3f, will that extra velocity potentially lower the impact point a bit too? Further, if I deepen/square the bottom of the notch in the hammer a bit, would that help, hurt or make no difference? Thanks in advance.
Click to expand...
Deepening the hammer notch will not effect elevation once the notch has been given parallel notch walls. In a Ruger .45 Colt I had to get a higher front blade when I increased the load which means it shot flatter.
I've always gone to a dove tail and partridge style sight on my open tops for game or target work. Posts generally work better on hand guns if one makes a holster with a welt groove to accommodate the front post.
 

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That first pic of yours looks exactly how I’d like to make one. I might work up the nerve to file a dovetail at some point.
Thanks.
 
I had the 47 Walker down for a range session. As expected, the upset front sight did not fall out and it did bring the groups down. A lot better sight picture with the work on the rear notch helping as well.
 
I have a pair of Walkers built by Uberti in 2015. Yes, both have short arbors and shoot high right but not by feet but May be six inches. I like all the ingenuity that all of you have come up with to make them hit POA/POI and for sure that will make the guns more enjoyable but I don’t have the skills (yet) to alter them in a that will make them shoot better and keep them esthetically pleasing. I have stuck with the witness target (alternate aiming point) to date. Below are couple of targets shot at 25 meters with and without witness targets. Six and 36 round balls of the bench, respectively!
 

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B P Arn said:
Here is one I made using that technique for my Spiller and Burr replica to replace the short factory sight.

It took me three attempts to get one I liked.

View attachment 344438View attachment 344439
Click to expand...
Nice work, and it looks nice as well matching the frame. I could do something like this, no Patridge sight for me, I will keep those on my cartridge guns (if I had any of course!).
 
I'm guessing there are no competition shooters here or I would think they would have already chimed in. What do they do?
 

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