You can radius off the front end , put a 45 degree angle on the top back that will make it look better , not snag holster leather sustain elevation and gather light .While its not pretty, I believe its more than tall enough.
That’s how I described my first girlfriend.While its not pretty, I believe its more than tall enough.
It has to be chemically clean and a good flux used. The next element is heat enough as the barrel steel is a much slower conductor than a brass sight plus it is a much larger heat sink. Most folks are afraid of over heating barrel steel or ruining the blue but soft solder will flow long before either are harmed. The heat should be applied from underside of the barrel until the solder in the sight mortice liquefies and flows.My wife was both a looker (goddess) and taller than me. Never bothered me though she seemed to think it should. Of course it annoyed her tall guys usually had short SO.
Right now I am just going to shoot it and see where it hits using both the BP cylinder and the unmentionable 45 LC cylinder.
Not anywhere neat as the dovetail nor as adjustable for wind age but I can carve the front sight a bit and the rear to move it one way or the other. I get that down and I will pretty it up.
I am curious how others got solder to take. It sticks to the brass fine but not the pistol barrel. I did a solder form fit and then super glued it in. Solid.
Yeah, I can't think of a situation that covering part of the target with the sight is of any advantage.I like a 6 O'clock generally. I seem to recall that that's what was called for when sighting-in in Army basic, way back! I like it to this day with pistol & rifle but would adjust depending upon what/when/why shooting.
Silver solder will probably be necessary.My wife was both a looker (goddess) and taller than me. Never bothered me though she seemed to think it should. Of course it annoyed her tall guys usually had short SO.
Right now I am just going to shoot it and see where it hits using both the BP cylinder and the unmentionable 45 LC cylinder.
Not anywhere neat as the dovetail nor as adjustable for wind age but I can carve the front sight a bit and the rear to move it one way or the other. I get that down and I will pretty it up.
I am curious how others got solder to take. It sticks to the brass fine but not the pistol barrel. I did a solder form fit and then super glued it in. Solid.
Build up the front sighr with metal set epoxy. File to shape and blend in with the original steel sight. Color the epoxied extension with the model car paint color of your choice.Thanks for those pics. They do help. I too am going to raise the front sight as my gun shoots a foot high at about 10 yards. She’s otherwise a peach so I want to wring the best out of her.
PS I’m thinking a nicely made and carefully installed dovetail front sight might be the ticket. Not authentic but I can keep it simple and traditional looking hopefully.
Silver solder will probably be necessary.
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