It will seem that way if you're using too thick or too large of cleaning patches. Are you using the factory ramrod?
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32 Crockett cleaning headaches
- Thread starter Dexis
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Here is another opinion that is worth what your paying for it.
When you start to pull the patch and jag out it is not the bunching up on the grooved part of the jag that is the problem but the bunching up on the shoulder above the grooved part.
Try using a jag with no shoulder and a very slender cleaning rod, AKA a modern Dewey or Pro-shot rod. and see if that solves your problem.
Also, in case it wasn't mentioned, once it is stuck, squirt some thin lubricant down and let it soak into the patch before trying to pull it again, Kroil or similar.
When you start to pull the patch and jag out it is not the bunching up on the grooved part of the jag that is the problem but the bunching up on the shoulder above the grooved part.
Try using a jag with no shoulder and a very slender cleaning rod, AKA a modern Dewey or Pro-shot rod. and see if that solves your problem.
Also, in case it wasn't mentioned, once it is stuck, squirt some thin lubricant down and let it soak into the patch before trying to pull it again, Kroil or similar.
I’ve discovered that small caliber rifles tend to need a wet patch every so many shots in the field. In my 36; I chase a wet patch down every three shots then a dry patch. If you’re used to shooting large bore smoothies, it can seem like a pain. I’m sure someone out there’s going to say that they can shoot a hundred times and still have no problems, but this is what works for me and might help you. It makes the fowling much looser when it comes time to really clean at the end of the day.
Say, the grooves haven't been cut the wrong way have they??
Been following this as I have a NIB Crockett staring at me much like my dog does when he wants us to go on a walk in the woods.
I had issues with stuck patches in larger calibers (.40 and up) until I switched from button jags to extension loading jags. The relief behind the jag head makes a big difference. I still can get a dry patch stuck, but it has to be a very large patch. I use cupped jags of this style for loading and cleaning, leave them on the ramrod, and a fouling scraper on a cleaning rod as needed. I make my cleaning patches from white cotton flannel and a rotary cutter.
Photo from Track. Can't tell if these are flat (cleaning) or cupped (loading) tips from this view, and they don't say. The relief behind the jag head is what cuts down getting a patch stuck.
I had issues with stuck patches in larger calibers (.40 and up) until I switched from button jags to extension loading jags. The relief behind the jag head makes a big difference. I still can get a dry patch stuck, but it has to be a very large patch. I use cupped jags of this style for loading and cleaning, leave them on the ramrod, and a fouling scraper on a cleaning rod as needed. I make my cleaning patches from white cotton flannel and a rotary cutter.
Photo from Track. Can't tell if these are flat (cleaning) or cupped (loading) tips from this view, and they don't say. The relief behind the jag head is what cuts down getting a patch stuck.
The Tesco 32 caliber jags have the cupped tip and work fine for cleaning. Shot and cleaned a 32 caliber Pedersoli Friday without issue using one. The gun as a chambered breech that I use a worn smaller caliber brush wrapped with a patch to clean.
Make sure any jag you use has a steel threaded insert to attach to your range rod. If using a ramrod, make sure tips are pinned in place.
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That is how I clean most things. Used and worn out wire brushes with an overpatch.
Mike in FL
50 Cal.
Good point.
That is exactly the kind of jag I use on my Crocketts. They work well unless I cut the cleaning patches too big or the material is too thick.
Johnnyntrain
32 Cal
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Whatever the reason it gets stuck...I push wet cleaning patches down in thirds. You may be pushing the fouling down if only doing one stroke. Change patches as you go. Pain in the ass but better than a stuck patch
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