Loading from the pouch?

Am still relatively new to muzzleloading, about a year now. I shoot primarily club matches, load from the bench using a steel range rod.


That being said my club has scheduled what they call a "primative" match, that requires loading from the pouch.

Since I have never done that, figured their would be a learning curve with respect to the mechanics of this, so decided I'd better practice it. Organizing the bag, holding the rifle while measuring powder, starting a tightly patched ball without a mallet, using a thin flimsy wooden ramrod, my first reload from the bag gave the following result.


Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or suggestions as how to better manage the mechanics of loading from a shoulder bag.

Use your range rod and drop it to the ground at your feet

I hope you didn't hurt yourself when the ramrod broke. A few nicknames have been bestowed upon people impaling themselves. The main thing about working with a shooting pouch is downsizing your components. I've never loaded from a bench only from a pouch, so I learned to keep it simple. I know I wouldn't have room for a mallet so that would have to be left on the bench. Thinner patching would make loading a lot easier. Definitely rely on your range rod for loading as @Beaverman2 suggests. Here is a photo of the contents of my shooting bag. I know it looks cluttered laid out like this, but it shows everything I need to shoot all day.

Ramrods often break when you try to ram the ball while gripping the end of the rod. That's a surefire way to bend a metal rod or break a wood one. Grip the rod about a foot above the muzzle and tap down, moving your grip as the ball goes down to the powder.

Beaverman2 said:

Use your range rod and drop it to the ground at your feet

Click to expand...

That is presuming their shoot rules will allow them.

Use a short and long starter before the ramrod. It gets the ball down the barrel several inches. Do as Dave above advised on gripping the ramrod.

First of all, the grain structure of the broken ram rod was terrible so don't let that be your benchmark.

Buy a good hickory ram rod from TOTW or similar, do not get a cheap dowel rod from the hardware store ( I usually buy several at the same time because hickory ram rods are good for lots of other projects).

Second, do what dave951 says and do short strokes, grip the rod a foot or so above the muzzle and tap it down, repeat until it is seated. I have seen guys grab the rod at the top and try and seat it with one stroke, a sure fire way to break a rod.

Third, most people are shooting a patch/ball combination that is way to tight, if you are wiping between shots, stop it and get a combination that allows seating without wiping.

I have never broken a ram rod after starting this sport in the 70's and being taught properly by my mentors, you can do it as well.

edit....If you can seat the ball even just partially grip the rod 3 or four inches above the muzzle and use the rod as a short starter, if the patch ball combination is to tight for this.....it is to tight.

Edit, edit, put the bag and horn on and go to the line of your club and practice.

That’s some Bad grain runout there, you’re lucky!
I try to use a smaller ball as opposed to a thinner patch. Polishing your bore helps too but most important is your patch lube- it needs to be slicker than…. Saliva works surprisingly well although you may have to launder your patch material if you don’t like the taste of the starch they used.

Take anything unnecessary out of your bag (ham sandwiches, quarts of sweet tea, etc.) tie your capper/pan primer and measurer to a cord to your strap. The balls just dump into the bag, you can grab one by feel. If you use a spit patch, put it on your tongue before you charge with powder. Most importantly remember this, "smooth is fast" find your system that works, and go with it. Good luck, and have fun. That's what it's all about.

JDBraddy said:

Am still relatively new to muzzleloading, about a year now. I shoot primarily club matches, load from the bench using a steel range rod.
View attachment 356231

That being said my club has scheduled what they call a "primative" match, that requires loading from the pouch.

Since I have never done that, figured their would be a learning curve with respect to the mechanics of this, so decided I'd better practice it. Organizing the bag, holding the rifle while measuring powder, starting a tightly patched ball without a mallet, using a thin flimsy wooden ramrod, my first reload from the bag gave the following result.
View attachment 356233

Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or suggestions as how to better manage the mechanics of loading from a shoulder bag.

Click to expand...

When I participated in local woods walks, I found it helpful to make a list of all the things I actually needed for a "bag shoot" (slightly different for FL's v. cap locks).* I printed it out and checked off the needed items as I filled the bag for the next day's shoot. Also, if you're not allowed to use a steel range rod, a good stout hickory wiping stick/rod works very well as long as you don't use a monstrously tight ball - patch combination. Btw, it may be blasphemous, but I striped my hickory rod with white and fluorescent red paint so I wouldn't forget it or lose it in the underbrush. Hope
this helps!

*Make sure you include cleaning patches and a small bottle of your favorite cleaning solution. (Don't ask....!)

JDBraddy said:

Am still relatively new to muzzleloading, about a year now. I shoot primarily club matches, load from the bench using a steel range rod.
View attachment 356231

That being said my club has scheduled what they call a "primative" match, that requires loading from the pouch.

Since I have never done that, figured their would be a learning curve with respect to the mechanics of this, so decided I'd better practice it. Organizing the bag, holding the rifle while measuring powder, starting a tightly patched ball without a mallet, using a thin flimsy wooden ramrod, my first reload from the bag gave the following result.
View attachment 356233

Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or suggestions as how to better manage the mechanics of loading from a shoulder bag.

Click to expand...

Use a short starter and a good hickory ramrod. Grip ramrod 8”-10” above the barrel and use short strokes to get the ball seared. You can mark your ramrod so that when in the field you’re not guessing. Only put what you need for the day in your bag. Loose patches and balls. You can use a flint wallet for extra flints, knapping tool, and touch hole pick. If shooting percussion use an old cap tin for an extra nipple and take a nipple wrench with you. You can use saliva for lube and like others have said if you need a mallet then your patches are too thick or the balls are too big. I’ve been shooting BP since the late 70’s and have always loaded from the bag. I’ve also never used a mallet but I do use a short starter. I use hickory range rods when I’m at a shoot or range but that’s only because I save my ramrod under the barrel for hunting. Like others have also said tie your capper and your powder measure on your strap to keep them handy. I also tie a vent pick to my strap. I tie mine to my powder horn strap rather than my bag strap. Think about what somebody from the early 1800’s would have carried on a day trip and take no more than necessary. Have fun and good luck.

JDBraddy said:

Am still relatively new to muzzleloading, about a year now. I shoot primarily club matches, load from the bench using a steel range rod.


That being said my club has scheduled what they call a "primative" match, that requires loading from the pouch.

Since I have never done that, figured their would be a learning curve with respect to the mechanics of this, so decided I'd better practice it. Organizing the bag, holding the rifle while measuring powder, starting a tightly patched ball without a mallet, using a thin flimsy wooden ramrod, my first reload from the bag gave the following result.

Would appreciate any tips, tricks, or suggestions as how to better manage the mechanics of loading from a shoulder bag

Click to expand...

JD,
Yes loading from the pouch is a different critter. Might take you a trial or two to get the method/organization to make pouch loading smooth.
Place only items in your pouch you use, no extras. Extra manure just makes for confusion when you are trying to find the capper, flint knapper etc.
I personally like to hold the rifle between my legs using the thighs and knees to grip the rifle. That way you are loading with both hands. Better all the way around for control. Modify your pouch so starter, measure are on the strap. You won't be digging for those two main items in the bag. Separate compartments in the bag (to a point) also helps. I also have a additional 6" X 1.5" x 4" leather case that straps onto my belt. That holds items of what ifs. Ball pullers, scrapers, extra flints/caps etc. Your RR most likely broke possibly of two reasons in MO: The RR did not have straight grain or you are loading with long strokes, or both. Never ever use the wood RR like you would a steel one. Short strokes, never bend the RR.
Once you get organized do a dry run, (not loading of course) and see how it works.
Larry
PS I see shooters at matches that are so un prepared I sometimes wonder how they get there underware on in the morning

Keep it simple. I always shoot from the pouch. Lead/patches/ball starter if you need one. Powder measure hangs on my horn strap. Vent pick is on the same leather string as the powder measure.

Good luck.

All the above covers it pretty well. Especially the keep it simple part. The only thing I'll add is if you are hunting you will want a grease patch. If you wipe between shots use spit. If it's practical, use a loading block.

It's also a good idea to have your ramrod sized so that when it's on board the length matches the muzzle WITH THE JAG ATTACHED. That way the rod is ready to use and not sticking out beyond the muzzle and getting in the way. Unless you are actually using the rod it should be in the thimbles.

And finally, you can absolutely avoid breaking your rod if you make a brass or steel one. If you are using a 3/8" wood rod you can use a 5/16" metal rod and it will fit into the 3/8" tips from your broken wood rod. Pin and glue or solder.

Check accuracy using different thickness of patches and if you can find a thinner one that is easier to load but keeps your accuracy it will help when loading from the bag.

All good advice above. Once you get a system that works for you, through repetition it will become second nature to shoot from the bag.

One other experience using a wood ramrod with short strokes. Don’t get too rambunctious with those strokes. That ramrod can pinch your hand in the muzzle when loading so I’ve been told by someone. It hasn’t happened to me of course.

Slow and steady for safety.

The only things that are in my shooting bag are a small flint wallet with a flint knapping tool, patches and ball. Powder measure and short stater are hanging from my bag strap.

I use a short starter. Home made. It has a brass tip long enough to seat the ball below the muzzle. ( Incase I’m cutting the patch) then a longer rod with a jag attached and pretty much just smack it with my hand till it bottoms out . My barrel had a choke at the muzzle end so the rod part is a bit longer than normal. From that seating my under the barrel wooden rod works easy.