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DIY Defarbing and Refinishing
- Thread starter kh54
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I don't, but have a fine Enfield de-farb he did for BLOCKADE RUNNER in the early 2000's. I'm sure someone will come up with something, did you simply google him yet? His work got an excellent review in the book, Civil War muskets, a guide to authenticity, pub. about 2011 or so. I now see that kh54 filled you in w/ an e-mail. I love this site!
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Such fakes used to be common around the Centennial but people, now with the Internet, have become increasingly suspicious! In fact, when Navy Arms started offering replica revolvers about 1959 or so, the high-level antique gun collecting community was vehemently against offering such copies! How the world has changed!
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Me like. I find that simply removing any existing finish with Naval Jelly imparts a nice, aged, dull grayish, finish that seems to be more impervious than the sometimes-delicate bluing. Good job.
I’ll have to try that next time. I just mixed a little BC cold blue paste with water and wiped it on and off several times. Then a bit of Laurel mountain browning solution mixed with water and did the same as with the bluing/ water mix. When the finish was where I wanted it I rinsed it and dried it and soaked it in ballistol for 24 hours.
FYI, you can make an excellent handgun, or other parts, bluing tank out of an old 50 caliber ammo can. You can rust blue, or better yet, hot oxide blue. Light years better than any cold "blue".Hi All. I thought I would show a couple of recent projects, in part to share my experience but also to see if others might have tips or suggestions that would improve the quality of my work. So feel free to comment, criticize, praise, condemn...or just ignore.
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I have cold-blued the steel because I haven't yet built myself a bluing tank. I don't mind my imperfect results - they impart an antique-ish patina. On the G&G I applied the bluing but removed most of it with steel wool for the effect that you see. On the S&G I left the bluing as deep and smooth as I could get it.
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Sooooo, any thoughts??
kh54
45 Cal.
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Can you direct me to instructions or a how-to video?
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Nice job, and the only thing that I would point out is that original Griswold and Gunniston revolvers do not have the base of the grip frame more or less parallel with the barrel.Hi All. I thought I would show a couple of recent projects, in part to share my experience but also to see if others might have tips or suggestions that would improve the quality of my work. So feel free to comment, criticize, praise, condemn...or just ignore.
A few years ago I bought an early Italian 1851 Navy clone with a brass frame in .44 caliber that Todd Watts defarbed and engraved to mimic a CSA Schneider & Glassick. It turned out very nice and I decided that I wanted another, but in the correct .36 caliber. I watched for a .36 1851 brass frame with a smooth cylinder for a long time but never could get one for what I wanted to pay. I finally decided just to get one with the engraved cylinder and see if I could remove the engraving myself. I found a 1974 C.O.M. - I think I got it on Gunbroker. I don't have a lathe but I was able to chuck the cylinder into my drill on a wood dowel and with only two or three battery recharges and wet/dry paper I was able to remove the engraving and the deep turn line. I did leave the finish with some shallow sanding scratches, as I thought that was appropriate for a gun that might have been manufactured imperfectly in the South in wartime conditions. I also cleaned up the bolt so it wouldn't scratch the cylinder like it had before. Finally I removed all the manufacturer's marks on the barrel and frame (lots of filing and wet/dry sanding) leaving only the serial number, then I re-blued the steel components, except for the loading lever.
I also acquired recently a Pietta Griswold & Gunnison that I wanted to "defarb." I only planned to remove Pietta's awful markings and a lot of dings from mishandling, and not necessarily add correct CSA markings, at least not by myself. Again, lots of filing and wet/dry sanding on the barrel, stripping the bluing on the cylinder, polishing the brass, then re-bluing.
I have cold-blued the steel because I haven't yet built myself a bluing tank. I don't mind my imperfect results - they impart an antique-ish patina. On the G&G I applied the bluing but removed most of it with steel wool for the effect that you see. On the S&G I left the bluing as deep and smooth as I could get it.
Below are pics of before, during and after results. I haven't yet sent the S&G to Todd Watts but that's in the near future.
Sooooo, any thoughts??
The grip base is at an angle.
The angle isn’t much but it makes a difference.
I altered a repro many years ago going by photos and made a new grip to suit
The difference was amazing, pistol felt different, pointed better and, most of all, didn’t whack my middle finger on firing i
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/24847
And an original Colt for comparison
Note.that the G and G has more room for the hand behind the trigger guard
https://collectorsfirearms.com/2061...avy-ac495.html/#mz-expanded-view-837157161171
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Interesting. The front strap looks almost like a Bisley Colt.
Here are some pictures I took while bluing some black powder revolver parts a few years ago. The pictures will tell the story better than I can.
I have full sized tanks and gas burners for when I want to blue rifles. The small tank (made from a 50-caliber ammo can) and camp stove are great for when I am only bluing a few smaller items.
Please ask if you have any questions.
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Here are some of the results of that day...
Here are pictures of a repro Remington that I cut down and re-blued about 12 years ago. My first black powder gun....
Those look nice! You should post a tutorial.
Btw, the stove should have a blue flame
. Looks like it's burning a little rich, not enough pressure, clogged generator/tip, bad fuel (fresh gasoline or naphtha), probably the manifold needs blowing out. ( Not being a busy body, I was a big Coleman collector at one time.) I use an American Gas Machine (Coleman competitor!) radiant heater for the shop !!
Mike
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Regarding a tutorial, there is really nothing much to add to the directions that come with the Brownell's bluing salts, other than the directions are geared to a full shop bluing set up. My contribution is show that first class, professional bluing can be done at home, and using minimal equipment, as illustrated in my pictures.
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KingOfKindling
32 Cal
Any reason to use propane? Does a typical 1500w hot plate or stovetop not give off enough heat for an ammo can full of salts?
I don't know if a hotplate would put out enough heat. The solution has to get to 292° (going from memory here). Give it a try, and let us know if it works.
That's ok. Some like new guns, some like antiques. There you go! Feel better?
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That’s a mighty fine looking blue on that Remington!
Have you ever tried a Nitre blue with that setup? A cylinder and screws in Nitre blue would be beautiful contrasting against the dark frame and barrel.
Great work!
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