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DIY Defarbing and Refinishing

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I don't, but have a fine Enfield de-farb he did for BLOCKADE RUNNER in the early 2000's. I'm sure someone will come up with something, did you simply google him yet? His work got an excellent review in the book, Civil War muskets, a guide to authenticity, pub. about 2011 or so. I now see that kh54 filled you in w/ an e-mail. I love this site!
 
I left the original serial numbers on the revolvers that I posted about and any others that I’ve similarly “defarbed.” (In quotes because I’ve not added any period correct markings.) Todd Watts removes the serial numbers from conspicuous locations and engraves them on the underside of the barrels. To me, that seems sufficient evidence for future owners. Only the least discerning and careless individual would mistake these for originals and I don’t feel like I need to try and fix stupid in any generation - to put it bluntly.
Such fakes used to be common around the Centennial but people, now with the Internet, have become increasingly suspicious! In fact, when Navy Arms started offering replica revolvers about 1959 or so, the high-level antique gun collecting community was vehemently against offering such copies! How the world has changed!
 
Here is one I did of a Pietta Remington. Of course nothing about this screams original, it’s just I wanted a shorter barrel and rounded birds head type grip and I like that type of finish. I may do another one some day, just too many things on my plate these days.
 

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Here is one I did of a Pietta Remington. Of course nothing about this screams original, it’s just I wanted a shorter barrel and rounded birds head type grip and I like that type of finish. I may do another one some day, just too many things on my plate these days.
Me like. I find that simply removing any existing finish with Naval Jelly imparts a nice, aged, dull grayish, finish that seems to be more impervious than the sometimes-delicate bluing. Good job.
 
Me like. I find that simply removing any existing finish with Naval Jelly imparts a nice, aged, dull grayish, finish that seems to be more impervious than the sometimes-delicate bluing. Good job.
I’ll have to try that next time. I just mixed a little BC cold blue paste with water and wiped it on and off several times. Then a bit of Laurel mountain browning solution mixed with water and did the same as with the bluing/ water mix. When the finish was where I wanted it I rinsed it and dried it and soaked it in ballistol for 24 hours.
 
Hi All. I thought I would show a couple of recent projects, in part to share my experience but also to see if others might have tips or suggestions that would improve the quality of my work. So feel free to comment, criticize, praise, condemn...or just ignore. :)

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I have cold-blued the steel because I haven't yet built myself a bluing tank. I don't mind my imperfect results - they impart an antique-ish patina. On the G&G I applied the bluing but removed most of it with steel wool for the effect that you see. On the S&G I left the bluing as deep and smooth as I could get it.

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Sooooo, any thoughts??
FYI, you can make an excellent handgun, or other parts, bluing tank out of an old 50 caliber ammo can. You can rust blue, or better yet, hot oxide blue. Light years better than any cold "blue".
 
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