DIY Defarbing and Refinishing

[matchlock1607]

Thank you!

 

[springfield art]

I don't, but have a fine Enfield de-farb he did for BLOCKADE RUNNER in the early 2000's. I'm sure someone will come up with something, did you simply google him yet? His work got an excellent review in the book, Civil War muskets, a guide to authenticity, pub. about 2011 or so. I now see that kh54 filled you in w/ an e-mail. I love this site!

 

[springfield art]

I left the original serial numbers on the revolvers that I posted about and any others that I’ve similarly “defarbed.” (In quotes because I’ve not added any period correct markings.) Todd Watts removes the serial numbers from conspicuous locations and engraves them on the underside of the barrels. To me, that seems sufficient evidence for future owners. Only the least discerning and careless individual would mistake these for originals and I don’t feel like I need to try and fix stupid in any generation - to put it bluntly.

Such fakes used to be common around the Centennial but people, now with the Internet, have become increasingly suspicious! In fact, when Navy Arms started offering replica revolvers about 1959 or so, the high-level antique gun collecting community was vehemently against offering such copies! How the world has changed!

 

[1stnamebassist]

Here is one I did of a Pietta Remington. Of course nothing about this screams original, it’s just I wanted a shorter barrel and rounded birds head type grip and I like that type of finish. I may do another one some day, just too many things on my plate these days.

 

[springfield art]

Here is one I did of a Pietta Remington. Of course nothing about this screams original, it’s just I wanted a shorter barrel and rounded birds head type grip and I like that type of finish. I may do another one some day, just too many things on my plate these days.

Me like. I find that simply removing any existing finish with Naval Jelly imparts a nice, aged, dull grayish, finish that seems to be more impervious than the sometimes-delicate bluing. Good job.

 

[1stnamebassist]

Me like. I find that simply removing any existing finish with Naval Jelly imparts a nice, aged, dull grayish, finish that seems to be more impervious than the sometimes-delicate bluing. Good job.

I’ll have to try that next time. I just mixed a little BC cold blue paste with water and wiped it on and off several times. Then a bit of Laurel mountain browning solution mixed with water and did the same as with the bluing/ water mix. When the finish was where I wanted it I rinsed it and dried it and soaked it in ballistol for 24 hours.

 

[B P Arn]

Hi All. I thought I would show a couple of recent projects, in part to share my experience but also to see if others might have tips or suggestions that would improve the quality of my work. So feel free to comment, criticize, praise, condemn...or just ignore.

...

I have cold-blued the steel because I haven't yet built myself a bluing tank. I don't mind my imperfect results - they impart an antique-ish patina. On the G&G I applied the bluing but removed most of it with steel wool for the effect that you see. On the S&G I left the bluing as deep and smooth as I could get it.

...

Sooooo, any thoughts??

FYI, you can make an excellent handgun, or other parts, bluing tank out of an old 50 caliber ammo can. You can rust blue, or better yet, hot oxide blue. Light years better than any cold "blue".

 

[kh54]

FYI, you can make an excellent handgun, or other parts, bluing tank out of an old 50 caliber ammo can. You can rust blue, or better yet, hot oxide blue. Light years better than any cold "blue".

Can you direct me to instructions or a how-to video?

 

[Colonial Boy]

Hi All. I thought I would show a couple of recent projects, in part to share my experience but also to see if others might have tips or suggestions that would improve the quality of my work. So feel free to comment, criticize, praise, condemn...or just ignore.

A few years ago I bought an early Italian 1851 Navy clone with a brass frame in .44 caliber that Todd Watts defarbed and engraved to mimic a CSA Schneider & Glassick. It turned out very nice and I decided that I wanted another, but in the correct .36 caliber. I watched for a .36 1851 brass frame with a smooth cylinder for a long time but never could get one for what I wanted to pay. I finally decided just to get one with the engraved cylinder and see if I could remove the engraving myself. I found a 1974 C.O.M. - I think I got it on Gunbroker. I don't have a lathe but I was able to chuck the cylinder into my drill on a wood dowel and with only two or three battery recharges and wet/dry paper I was able to remove the engraving and the deep turn line. I did leave the finish with some shallow sanding scratches, as I thought that was appropriate for a gun that might have been manufactured imperfectly in the South in wartime conditions. I also cleaned up the bolt so it wouldn't scratch the cylinder like it had before. Finally I removed all the manufacturer's marks on the barrel and frame (lots of filing and wet/dry sanding) leaving only the serial number, then I re-blued the steel components, except for the loading lever.

I also acquired recently a Pietta Griswold & Gunnison that I wanted to "defarb." I only planned to remove Pietta's awful markings and a lot of dings from mishandling, and not necessarily add correct CSA markings, at least not by myself. Again, lots of filing and wet/dry sanding on the barrel, stripping the bluing on the cylinder, polishing the brass, then re-bluing.

I have cold-blued the steel because I haven't yet built myself a bluing tank. I don't mind my imperfect results - they impart an antique-ish patina. On the G&G I applied the bluing but removed most of it with steel wool for the effect that you see. On the S&G I left the bluing as deep and smooth as I could get it.

Below are pics of before, during and after results. I haven't yet sent the S&G to Todd Watts but that's in the near future.

Sooooo, any thoughts??

Nice job, and the only thing that I would point out is that original Griswold and Gunniston revolvers do not have the base of the grip frame more or less parallel with the barrel.
The grip base is at an angle.

Photo shows an original https://oldsouthantiques.com/cgi-bin/Display_Item.asp?556 the attached Statement is worth a read.
The angle isn’t much but it makes a difference.
I altered a repro many years ago going by photos and made a new grip to suit
The difference was amazing, pistol felt different, pointed better and, most of all, didn’t whack my middle finger on firing i

Another, in which the angle appears more pronounced.
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/24847
And an original Colt for comparison
Note.that the G and G has more room for the hand behind the trigger guard
https://collectorsfirearms.com/2061...avy-ac495.html/#mz-expanded-view-837157161171

 

[Bad Karma]

Nice job, and the only thing that I would point out is that original Griswold and Gunniston revolvers do not have the base of the grip frame more or less parallel with the barrel.
The grip base is at an angle.
View attachment 358865Photo shows an original https://oldsouthantiques.com/cgi-bin/Display_Item.asp?556 the attached Statement is worth a read.
The angle isn’t much but it makes a difference.
I altered a repro many years ago going by photos and made a new grip to suit
The difference was amazing, pistol felt different, pointed better and, most of all, didn’t whack my middle finger on firing iView attachment 358866Another, in which the angle appears more pronounced.
https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/24847
And an original Colt for comparison
Note.that the G and G has more room for the hand behind the trigger guard
https://collectorsfirearms.com/2061...avy-ac495.html/#mz-expanded-view-837157161171
View attachment 358868

Interesting. The front strap looks almost like a Bisley Colt.

 

[B P Arn]

Can you direct me to instructions or a how-to video?

Here are some pictures I took while bluing some black powder revolver parts a few years ago. The pictures will tell the story better than I can.

I have full sized tanks and gas burners for when I want to blue rifles. The small tank (made from a 50-caliber ammo can) and camp stove are great for when I am only bluing a few smaller items.

Please ask if you have any questions.

 

[B P Arn]

Here are some of the results of that day...

 

[B P Arn]

Here are pictures of a repro Remington that I cut down and re-blued about 12 years ago. My first black powder gun....

 

[45D]

Here are some of the results of that day...

View attachment 359130View attachment 359131View attachment 359132View attachment 359133

Those look nice! You should post a tutorial.
Btw, the stove should have a blue flame . Looks like it's burning a little rich, not enough pressure, clogged generator/tip, bad fuel (fresh gasoline or naphtha), probably the manifold needs blowing out. ( Not being a busy body, I was a big Coleman collector at one time.) I use an American Gas Machine (Coleman competitor!) radiant heater for the shop !!

Mike

 

[B P Arn]

Regarding a tutorial, there is really nothing much to add to the directions that come with the Brownell's bluing salts, other than the directions are geared to a full shop bluing set up. My contribution is show that first class, professional bluing can be done at home, and using minimal equipment, as illustrated in my pictures.

 

[buttap]

I do not get the idea at all..take a gun and mess it up so it looks like a 160 year old gun vs what they looked like when used and packed in the 1850-70s.