arbor grease

stubshaft said:

I just use my homemade Bore Butter. Works well enough for me and cleans up a lot easier than petroleum products.

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Conventional petroleum products don't work well with bp anyway. You should either use non-petroleum or synthetic products. Most products change their consistency pretty easy whereas the synthetics maintain theirs with a rather wide temperature range. That's the main reason you can pack the frame and keep the action lubed and protected and it allows you to forget about cleaning the action every time you clean the revolver to maybe once a year.

Mike

Finish Line bicycle grease, because it hanging on the wall in the shop.

How about trying some silicone grease? It is very thin and very slippery. I've used it on a vintage Singer model 201 sewing machines gears with success.

ZUG said:

How about trying some silicone grease? It is very thin and very slippery. I've used it on a vintage Singer model 201 sewing machines gears with success.

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Ok, you're shooting a heat generating device and you're using a "very" thin grease to start with so will it get even thiner as it warms up? What kind of viscosity range does it have? The grease needs to "hold" fouling instead of it running out and making a mess . . . slippery guns can be dangerous!!
As I've stated many many times, folks that shoot these things in competition have used Mobil1 for decades and it seems great to me . . . I use it, never had a problem with it . . . I definitely don't want a thin lube/ fouling barrier. Something that can take the heat and not make a mess.

Mike

Here been using lucas red and tacky or petro jelly for over 50 years and works just fine.

45D said:

Ok, you're shooting a heat generating device and you're using a "very" thin grease to start with so will it get even thiner as it warms up? What kind of viscosity range does it have? The grease needs to "hold" fouling instead of it running out and making a mess . . . slippery guns can be dangerous!!
As I've stated many many times, folks that shoot these things in competition have used Mobil1 for decades and it seems great to me . . . I use it, never had a problem with it . . . I definitely don't want a thin lube/ fouling barrier. Something that can take the heat and not make a mess.

Mike

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I'm just asking a question - no need to get your panties all twisted up. Take a "chill pill" and relax.  I've read your advice on Mobil One and have some on hand. I think I've made my point without getting overly excited.

ZUG said:

I've read your advice on Mobil One and have some on hand.

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Then use it and quit asking silly questions!!!
( see, that's a joke right there)

ZUG said:

I'm just asking a question - no need to get your panties all twisted up. Take a "chill pill" and relax. 

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Don't have any "chill pills" ( I'm working so im always "chill" while working) and don't wear panties.

Funny, I was asking questions too (to try and help you think yours through) but for some reason I have an attitude . . .
Merry Christmas sir

Mike

I use high temp wheel bearing grease on all my revolver arbours.

Unless its synthetic its not nearly as good.

There are differences in the synthetic greases, some are intended for really cold temperatures and don't work well at higher temps. Mike likes Mobile one, so do I. If I could afford it I would use Aeroshell 22 as it's both hi temp and hi pressure use.

I worked a lot with Synthetic grease and oils (100 some conveyors, 20 some diesel engines and .....)

While there are listed differences in Syn oil or grease, they are miner. It does not get stiff when it gets cold and any of it is better than the best high temp regular grease.

The problem with greases and oils, every major user had a spec. So the big mfgs would make it to that spec despite the fact that Spec A was so Close to B you have to chart it to see any difference. Then they came up with a ID or name for it (big on names now) and you have a dozen greases that do the same exact thing in reality.

The only one that actually had a case was Detroit Diesel with their 2 Cycle engines for oil and DD ring needs were different (no longer made).

Each motor mfg came up with their own bearing grease spec. The downside was no one agree on the base for the grease and some chemically attacked others. Synthetics are the same, but only two base types. Not an issue for us but motors? Ungh. Dozen different mfgs with many different bearing mfgs.

For motors we went with sealed bearings and that stopped all grease issue. Same with Gen end bearings if we needed to replace one.

Think of it as the plugs for your electrical devices. How many different ones do we have? And at last they have one that you do not have to orient as it is the same up or down. Fungh.

Grease and oils are the same. Every Tom, Dick and Hairry came up with a spec. If you doubt it, get a book from Chevron or Mobile and look at the specs. Its nuts.

Have to disagree on all greases and oils being the same, not trying to discount your experiences. I was in the aircraft world as a mechanic for quite a number of years. There are oils and greases that definitely do not interchange and are significantly different in use and application. Good example is 5606 oil and Skydrol used in hydraulic applications, not interchangeable plus Skydrol will eat most people if they get it on their skin. Certain types of grease are not interchangeable as well. You don't substitute a light duty grease for the specified grease in Bell helicopter rotor heads without causing very expensive problems.

Its a black powder revolver not a shithook so dont think they are that picky on lube. I still have a OH-6 tool kit and totaly no way any of will get near any of my guns.

D Yager said:

You don't substitute a light duty grease for the specified grease in Bell helicopter rotor heads without causing very expensive problems.

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...and CAA/FAA compensation cases,

Super Lube synthetic grease.