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I hand sanded down to 320 grit with the scratch pattern all going lengthways. Then I used a small stone wheel on a Dremel and verry lightly allowed the stone to gently skip along the entire surface of the blade. Then I coated the blade with cold gun blue and sanded back the blueing with 600 grit...

This picture really shows off the natural color of the wood.

I always put mine on the right side because as a right handed person, the right side of the knife is always facing away from my body while in use. So that means that anyone standing in front of me or watching me use the knife, or watching me pull it out of the sheath will see my mark, not just a...

Yah, from what I understand, they would carry multiple pairs of moccasins and just fix them as needed Boots would wear out and once they were done they were pretty much done.

Thanks. Yah, these pins are peened actually, I do that to all of my pins. I've always put my makers mark on the right side for some reason, but I guess it allows for if someone wanted to etch in a more historical looking mark on the left skde, they can still do that. Granted...etching the mark...

Well here's the finished knife. Done in 1084 high carbon steel with an edge quench for a really tough spine. The red handle is Chakte Kok from Mexico/Brazil. The pins are just a wee bit larger at around 3/32", but...what do you think? And yes, English knives also had tapered tangs. I remember...

The blade on mine is just a tad too thick I think, so I'm going to thin that down a bit. Even though it started out at 3/32", it still seems a bit thick for an English scalper. Also the blade is a little too wide at 1-1/4" wide. I'm going to bring that closer to 1" or 1-1/8". Other than that, I...

I am attempting to recreate an authentic English scalper based on the following drawings. Note that the tangs on the English are NOT tapered and are rather square on the corners. The French tangs on the other hand are tapered down to a paper thin edge and are very rounded at the end. So despite...

Thanks. At the 23:36 mark he shows a side seam sheath very much like the one in the second photo I posted. It appears there is no belt loop, just a leather cord for tying to the sash or belt.

Here is another one just for an example. I think this knife was made by Scott Summerville. Anyways, would the back of a sheath like this feature a belt loop? I just want to be as historically accurate as possible.

Just wondering what was the most common 18th century method for securing a knife sheath (long knife/trade knife) to a belt? There are lots of pictures online of trade style knives and sheaths, but basically none ot them show the back of the sheath, only the front. I can't tell if they have belt...

I started edge quenching all my blades and haven't really had an issue with warped blades ever since.

Look at the drawing of the original...1/8" thick blade...

I started out with an angle grinder, some files and sandpaper. Just the basic stuff. Made a couple pretty awful first few knives, but learned along the way through lots of reading, forum searching and Youtube videos. Eventually I upgraded my grinders and tools to better stuff suited for...

Haha, I was actually going to do my handle with the two slabs like that ecause it was getting frustrating as heck trying to fit the tapered tang into the tapered slot and make it look half decent. I think that was probably just a variation as these two examples seem to indicate....

Looks good,! Nice shape to it. I understand what you mean...life does get busy.

The Hudson Bay is 3/16" thick at the spine and yes, I do my own heat treating.

I should do that. Do happen to know if I need a special membership or anything, or just go ahead and post for sale in the classifieds?

Precisely I think why they had the Hudson Bay Camp Knife, lol. It's like a big, heavy cleaver of a knife...