Search results

Good question, I have wondered this also

Short answer: I've not had to buy beeswax (I keep my own bees), but Mann Lake Ltd. and Dadant & Sons are well respected. Because they serve the beekeeping industry, their prices may be higher than other sources, however. Long answer: For lube purposes, any beeswax will work. When the wax comb...

If my horn turns out half as good as yours, I'll be happy!

Funnily, while I enjoyed The Revenant, the "period movie" that sticks in my head is actually Prey, which is set in 1719 and has a Predator alien coming to earth to hunt, well, everything and everyone. 😁

Very interesting, and nice accessories :thumb: I didn't have any trouble with CCI #10s and 777, but I too want to get some #11's to compare.

I'm going to really nitpick here, so ignore this if it's bothersome: Center drills work OK to start from a punch mark, a lot of machinists do it, but they're intended for drilling centers for lathe work, and as a result they have rather delicate tips. It's not fun to snap one off. What works...

I can't figure how acetone would help...I don't think the pigments will react at all to acetone. The suggestion of lye sounds more plausible to me. Hopefully the OP reports back with good news.

17th century Russia made and exported mica windows as a cheaper alternative to glass (called “muscovy windows”), so it's plausible.

Red Owl, You can still buy thin horn for lanterns: https://www.townsends.us/products/cow-horn-pane-for-lantern-or-hornbook?_pos=4&_sid=b8c97e3ae&_ss=r

I only use patches made from 1000 thread count cotton and soaked in holy water. Works great on vampires and keeps the fouling extra soft.

For that application, consider Loctite #638 retaining compound. Just run the screws in, wait 15 minutes, and dab up the excess with a paper towel. Then you can cut and file all you want. https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_638.html

Nice! Kind of makes me want to paint mine :cool:

@halman I think you meant silicone? From what little I know, silicone and black powder both ignite at around 450C, so I'm guessing the silicone won't completely burn up, and what doesn't burn will just keep building up until loading becomes a problem. (I am not a chemist, so do your own...

The case-hardening is just to show how the Antikythera builders could have done it. Making files from high-carbon steel is the same basic process prior to the heat treating. http://www.hawleytoolcollection.com/uploads/PDF/How%20it%20was%20made%20-%20Files.pdf

Files are not particularly difficult to make. This guy has been working on a recreation of the Antikythera Mechanism for years, and he made a separate video on making files:

Thanks for the write up. I had always wondered if Tru Oil was sprayable. Do you find spraying it takes fewer coats? I remember when I did a walnut guitar body, I wiped on around 28 coats and wet sanded periodically before I was satisfied.

That does look good. :thumb: I need to remember this if I ever make another.

Instead of paying Amazon $8, we can read it for free, it's old enough to be public domain :thumb: https://archive.org/details/fortyfouryearsof00browuoft/page/n5/mode/1up?ref=ol&view=theater

"Whatever that is" is right! (You've hit on a pet peeve of mine. 🙂) Some "lamp oils" are functionally identical to kerosene, while others are just re-labelled "paraffin oil" which is meant for liquid wax candles. The only way to know for sure what you're buying is to look up the flash point...

Very nice! I've always liked A-frames