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There are types of firearms that discussion of is against the rules of this forum, so instead of not discussing them some use the term "unmentionable" and discuss them anyway.

All of the Armi Sport M1842's I have seen are marked 1847.

This one is going to be a beauty, amazing work!

Just get the stock without the lock inlet, then you can inlet the lock to match the touch hole location.

Yep, the only way to do that with the barrel would be to chuck the forend stock piece and make a new one.

I like your style!

That is one of the best of these I have seen built. Great job on shaping the lock panel, that is one of the most important parts of making one of these look right!

Leonard Day Dutch trade gun, Mike Brooks Carolina gun, Clay Smith barn rifle, a few originals and a bunch of junk that I ought to get rid of!

I use 3f for charge and prime, I suppose it may be slightly slower but not enough for me to tell. I know not everyone agrees with this, but I also feel 3f doesn't get damp as quickly in the pan. I used to have the occasional failure to fire due to damp prime but haven't had it happen once since...

You did better than I did, I emailed twice with the same question and never got an answer!

As stated, there will be a lot of inletting and shaping of the stock still to be done. Holes will have to be drilled and tapped, rough metal castings filed and finished, dovetails cut, not even remotely close to in the white.

How did you measure your bore? Plug gauges are the easiest and most accurate. If your measurement is accurate, I wouldn't go under .575. Accuracy will suffer and the bore may foul even worse as the bullet is not expanding to scrape the bore. I don't know what the stick on wheel weights...

I wouldn't want it for $100, or even less. With such poor craftsmanship and not knowing anything about the barrel it may not even be safe.

Correct, that’s why unless it needs to be replaced it should be left alone. New poster though and may be talking about those “other” type guns.

What model gun? Why do you want to remove it? This is a traditional muzzleloading forum, so I assume you are talking about a traditional sidelock gun, in which case they can be removed but unless there is something wrong with the breechplug and it needs replacing it should be left alone.

I got one from EMF a couple months ago and it has the date 2022 on the underside of the barrel.

Honestly, I wouldn't want it at any price without knowing the quality of the parts. It looks like it was made from scrounged parts, and the workmanship looks pretty poor. The hammer doesn't even have a cup on the end, would most likely throw cap fragments everywhere.

I have one, I really like it. Trigger is not the best, but the rifle is very accurate, and reliable.

I may be wrong, but I am pretty sure the rifles with brazed on bolsters were banned by the NSSA for such reasons. Honestly, if it is one of the brazed on bolsters, I would find another barrel or relegate it to a wall hanger.

Those locks weren't the best quality. You could try the Log Cabin Shop, they do good work on locks.