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That'll happen if your rear sight is so loose it keeps falling out. You get that fixed yet?

People use aqua Fortis (iron nitrate) and tannic acid for tiger maple and then finish with their favorite oil. This stock here is one I did with 2 coats of track of the wolf's aqua Fortis and hand rubbed with a linseed oil finish.

They're pretty heavy at about 405 gr, but they carry lots of grease in the lube grooves which I really like

I also really like the new Goex. It's way cleaner burning than Schuetzen and I can shoot all day without cleaning as long as I lube my patches and bullets well. I've had good experiences in the past polishing a bore using grey scotchbrite with some oil on an undersized jag. Just don't polish...

Easiest conical lube recipes I've tried are a mixture of olive and beeswax or crisco and beeswax. You can also mix all three ingredients together. I've had pretty good results doing this and you can add more or less beeswax to make it stiffer.

Imagine accidentally bumping into a flint wall while walking. How do they not cut themselves all the time?

For those that don't know, you can buy 000 shot from track of the wolf in five pound boxes for 36 cal rifles. I shoot it in my SMR and have had great accuracy. I used to cast .350 RB but for the price it's hard to beat just buying it...

Did you ever get my PM? I haven't heard anything back

My CVA zouave is one of my most accurate guns. From a bench at 50 yards it'll do a 10 shot group all touching.

PM sent

I've bought three of his horns and have been happy every time, they're also a very good price in my opinion. If I ever want more I'll definitely buy again

There are a lot of red flags in the process described there. For something expensive like a muzzleloader I think best practice is to at the very least talk to the person on the phone and ask questions that they would have the be physically holding the gun to answer. Even then it's not perfectly...

If you peen the pin into the holes and then file it flush with the cap I would think you wouldn't even see the pin in the finished product. This is what I've done for ramrod tips and it's worked really well.

This thread is over a decade old and has already been pretty thoroughly discussed. The guy that originally asked the question hasn't been on the forum since 2012. At this point it's like beating a dead horse.

I built a 36 Kibler SMR a couple years ago and browned all of the iron parts. The barrel came out a little splotchy and I've been thinking about finally getting around to fixing it soon. Anyways, when I built it I left the lock plain and decided to let it build a natural patina over time. Now...

I flip flop on this topic pretty often, but it's gotta be my 36 cal Kibler SMR. It was the first rifle I ever built a couple years ago and is still by far my most accurate gun. I can almost put shots in the same hole at 50 yards with it.

For patched round ball I haven't noticed a difference when shooting oxidized lead. Shoot them and see if they give you decent accuracy, but I wouldn't be too concerned about it

I cleared it with the wife so I should be able to make it out there next Saturday. Please PM me the location

I'll take it. Please send me a PM on where to send payment

How did you eliminate the plug screw in the bolster? I'm building mine now finally and would like to do the same thing. I don't like that the screw tightens up against the nipple in the bolster and doesn't snug up against the bolster anywhere. I'm not a fan of hunting down an Allen wrench to...