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I always used my fingers on my Ruger Old Army and my Colt Navy. And my GPR. Just never liked the cappers. Come to think of it, I still use my fingers ... installing my flints ... well fingers and turnscrew! Never cut a finger with a cap .....

If you click on a posts "Login Name", say for example "Smith", you will see a page with different options across the top. Choose "Manage Ignore" and you will get to a page where you can select the "level" of "ignore". Not that I'm taking sides or anything ... but ...really .... :yakyak...

If I were ever to get another caplock (unlikely), that is what I would get. My first muzzleloader was a GPR 30 years ago, and as nice as it was, that rifle puts it to shame.

I have a 32 for small game. And a 50 for larger game. That's all I really NEED. 'Course I couldn't resist a certain 54 Va rifle .... Then there is my 62 smoothbore ... just for the shear fun of it !!! :grin:

PS Also look at this thread for ideas: http://www.muzzleloadingforum.com/fusionbb/showtopic.php?tid/296222/ (Ignore those who say you can't use 3F).

You already have some ideas in the posts/links given so far. Here is a couple of others: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=C8AtaQGYQDk https://www.full30.com/video/eb2a7f3499d1a47d9cd9a6ab67669aee But really, each gun seems to have it's own ideas on what it wants ... choose one and experiment...

IMO, too little is better that too much. A GOOD lock will go off with a dusting. Others might need more. Too much and you might get a fuse effect: ...sssss....BANG! Use as little as your lock needs.

Metal off the frizzen, yes. Very likely. Robert Hooke studied the sparks created by striking a piece of flint and steel together. He found that the sparks were usually particles of the steel which had become red hot and so melted into globules. Other sources not likely (read"Neih near...

And DEFINITELY keep the powder away from kids - adults can eliminate a certain amount of lead, but a kid's metabolism processes haven't developed enough to do that, so it is a LOT more toxic to them. Lead compounds are a lot more dangerous than pure metallic (unless someone is shooting at you!).

PS At the bottom of the first link's page is says: "Copyright © B. E. Spencer"

(Sigh) You didn't try the links I gave you, did you ??? :shake:

VERY nice !!!

Here is some good infoon smoothbore loading: http://home.insightbb.com/~bspen/SmoothboreLoads.html I get my cards/wads from TOTF, but some use tow or cut paper: https://www.full30.com/video/eb2a7f3499d1a47d9cd9a6ab67669aee Have fun and be sure to post some pictures when you get her !!!

Didn't drop or didn't appear to drop? You CAN'T SEE a rebounding frizzen - it's just too fast! Believe me, I was astounded at this fact, too !! Try putting a piece of paper on the frizzen spring - if the frizzen is rebounding, you will see a dent in the paper from the frizzen tail, even if it...

Iron, out of the ground, melts at around 1510 degrees C (2750°F). Steel often melts at around 1370 degrees C (2500°F). Is your pan melting, too ??? (It's the time factor - the heat doesn't last long enough.)

From what I've seen on this forum, 50% of the time Alden is joking ... and no one can tell which 50% !!! I also use 3F, as do a good number of other shooters. Use 3F if it works for YOUR GUN. Some guns seem to like 2F, so experiment !!! But don't be afraid of using 3F unless your loads are...

What size flint are you using ? Where does it hit the frizzen ?? Are you getting good sparks ??? Also ... is it possible that the frizzen rebounding and hitting the flint ???? A wrong size flint (hitting at wrong angle) or rebounding will shorten flint life. All else fails ... send it back...

Thanks for all those wonderful primary source materials !!! I guess the answer is: different people did their own thing - so do yours !!!

Are there a historical references for round vs square vs cut at muzzle patch use ??? Which was the most historical method, or were all three methods used ???? I use octagonal myself - cut square, then cut corners off.