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The Winchester catalog of 1899 lists their percussion caps as "Center Fire" also...I've always wondered what the heck that means, "Center Fire" as opposed to what? Perhaps just a marketing term?

I had the same thing happen with a new Rice barrel, shredded patches to heck but shot like a laser beam. Don't worry, be happy. After a couple hundred shots it will stop that nonsense and stop shredding.

I put musket cap nipples on any gun the hammer geometry will allow. Mainly because the musket caps are easier to handle than the #11s. I think they provide better ignition too, but a have no data to support that theory.

I've used cornmeal, gone to just using a felt wad and enough BP to make a compressed load. Seems to work, even on the Walker.

Any endeavor calling for lots of beer is worth pursuing. Make sure you have adequate ventilation. No one needs a case of knapper's rot.

I'm a fan of both, at the same time. Belt and suspenders.

All the advice above is true and good. At the risk of starting a holy war, adding a small amount of tin to that pure rotometals lead really helps minies fill out. I add a 20-1, 400 grain bullet (for one of my unmentionable rifles) to each 20 lbs of lead. About an inch of tin plumbers solder...

Huh? I rub brass parts with dirty cleaning patches when I clean my guns so they will patina up faster. Never pondered polishing them.

I would polish the casting mark out of the bottom of the pan, to ameliorate my OCD. Don't take a grinder to anything, other than a dull axe.

Lateral and frizzen that is🐵

Yes, I would rub that with the nearest scrap of sandpaper. Mostly cuz it would make me feel better. Once the frozen get longitudinal marks across them it seems to help smooth them off a little. This may be as valid as my mother's theory that a clean car runs better.

When my frizzens get rough enough to (no doubt in my imagination) start accelerating flint wear, I sand the frizzen to smooth it up. Usually use something around 220 grit, or whatever scrap of sandpaper that's laying on the bench.

Waage makes a great lead pot, I have 3 of them, one for each alloy I use (unmentionables ya know). Not cheap, just great. Dipper only.

I recommend you locktight in the jag. I had to shoot one out after it unscrewed on top of the ball. Needless to say, I didn't find it afterwards.

Valve lapping compound on a proper sized brass round head screw, turned in a drill motor, works well also.

I've used Hoppes gun oil as the final rust proofing swab for years with no issues, but I've always lived in dry climates.

I have one in my T/C Hawken, great for round balls, too slow for conicals.

Calm yourself.

Yes, you have to use more Goex to get the same velocity as with Swiss. And Swiss produces less fowling. And Swiss is produced with charcoal made from alderwood gathered by gypsies. These are all good things.

Swiss burns cleaner and has more "power" than Goex. In BP cartridges, that can be helpful. For Muzzleloading I haven't seen a great difference.