1-28 twist rifles?

[beardedhorse]

My TC white mountain carbine has a 1 in 48 twist which I don't consider very fast. Compromise for MAXI ball, Great Plains and other lead conicals and round ball. Bought a Bill Large .50 caliber barrel with a 1 in 40" twist. Not sure if that if too fast for round ball.

 

[Nor'Easter]

My early TC WMC .50 had a 1:20 twist. I spent a lot of time, money and materials trying to get it to shoot. Pie plate groups at best with anything but a specific combo of sabot and bullet. After the house fire it was badly pitted, so fitted it with a TC Hawken barrel 1:48. Happy, happy and never looked back. I believe 1:20 is too tight for a .50, unless shooting paper patched & sized bullets.

 

[user 31232]

If memory serves me correct the new traditions shed horn has a 1 in 28 twist

 

[Dwight Dutton]

My early TC WMC .50 had a 1:20 twist. I spent a lot of time, money and materials trying to get it to shoot. Pie plate groups at best with anything but a specific combo of sabot and bullet. After the house fire it was badly pitted, so fitted it with a TC Hawken barrel 1:48. Happy, happy and never looked back. I believe 1:20 is too tight for a .50, unless shooting paper patched & sized bullets.

The formula is caliber x twist x 20 = maximum grains with a plain lead projectile. In your case .5 x 20 x 2 = 20. Anything more than that will make the bullet jump the rifling. THAT formula is well known, my own version of that is when firing a sabot that middle number is probably closer to 5. So 5o grains max for this thing. That twist is fast even for a sabot.
With your new barrel .5 x 48 x 2 means you can shoot traditional ammunition with almost 50 grains and with a sabot only common sense is the limit, so yes, it will (and apparently does) work much better.

Side question - the fire damaged the INSIDE Of the barrel but the stock was ok?

 

[poker]

The formula is caliber x twist x 20 = maximum grains with a plain lead projectile. In your case .5 x 20 x 2 = 20. Anything more than that will make the bullet jump the rifling. THAT formula is well known, my own version of that is when firing a sabot that middle number is probably closer to 5. So 5o grains max for this thing. That twist is fast even for a sabot.
With your new barrel .5 x 48 x 2 means you can shoot traditional ammunition with almost 50 grains and with a sabot only common sense is the limit, so yes, it will (and apparently does) work much better.

Side question - the fire damaged the INSIDE Of the barrel but the stock was ok?

That formula explains why the big bore forsythe barrels with the very long twists can shoot accurately with huge powder charges.

 

[Greg Y]

I have a Knight LK-93 I bought used that has that twist. Its 30 years old though, hardly new. I was at the range this morning and Minie balls keyhole at 50 yards if they even hit the paper. Haven't tried round ball in it yet.

Apparently it was made for shooting Sabots only which is probably why it was cheap. I just have to find something I can cast and shoot, I'm not spending a dollar a shot to plink.

Feed it a 495gr no excuses over 80ish grs of powder. I have one too and it is a tack driver.

 

[Nor'Easter]

The formula is caliber x twist x 20 = maximum grains with a plain lead projectile. In your case .5 x 20 x 2 = 20. Anything more than that will make the bullet jump the rifling. THAT formula is well known, my own version of that is when firing a sabot that middle number is probably closer to 5. So 5o grains max for this thing. That twist is fast even for a sabot.
With your new barrel .5 x 48 x 2 means you can shoot traditional ammunition with almost 50 grains and with a sabot only common sense is the limit, so yes, it will (and apparently does) work much better.

Side question - the fire damaged the INSIDE Of the barrel but the stock was ok?

The smoke in a modern house fire is so full of caustic and toxic elements from the burning plastics and chemicals that it will etch and corrode anything. Pottery, glass, stainless - you name it. They also used foam when overhauling the fire, and every inch of everything was sprayed with it. I've posted here before that had I had my guns in those silicone gun socks, I would have had little to no damage. The fire actually burned around my gun room, through the rooms on either side and then up and over through the attic. So the stock finish on the TC guns is pretty tough stuff, it was stained but not blistered etc. Stripping and refinishing the wood was the easy part. Some barrels required a 1/16" or more of material removal to get the pits out, most bolts and receiver internal still have pits. Most trigger parts had to be replaced.

And the first thing I did the next day after the fire was buy multiple spray cans and gallons of wd40 and soaked everything down daily for a week or better. It helped a lot, but the pitting was still unbelievable.