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10 ga. sxs percussion gun

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Goose smasher

32 Cal.
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Hello ,I'm new to the site and to muzzleloading shotguns. I have recently purchased a muzzleloading 10 ga. sxs that I would like to use for turkey hunting.What would you guys suggest for a good starter load to see what this beast will like? Thanks in advance!

Goose smasher
 
80 grains of 2Fg Goex
Over-powder Card .125 thick
Shot cushion
1.5-1 7/8 oz of shot
Over-shot Card

That will get you started, and you'll have a nice dense pattern too!

Dave
 
Welcome to the forum!--Goose Smasher!..First how long are your barrels ? Are they choked..Will you need to shoot non-toxic shot? Need more info...I shoot a Pedersoli SXS 10 ga, 30" barrels choked Don't be shy..we are here to help...Dan
 
I have the same gun Dan,I really like it. It has 30" barrels and I believe they are choked cylinder and modified. I can use lead shot and I've already bought a bag of six's.

Goose smasher
 
I also have the same gun , I got my best patterns using overshot cards only. Cushion wad seemed to blow my patterns. If you can get a good pattern out to 30 yards let me know. I've been using mine for turkeys but haven't got them in close enough to get a good shot. I use 80 grains 2F and 2oz of #6 shot...gun doesn't have a problem with the heavy load but the recoil is intense. Do your self a favor and get a recoil pad.
 
That's an easy fix for the blown patterns,
either increase your powder or decrease your shot to 1 1/2oz. The wad is going faster then the payload.
You're getting "donutting" of the shot from the wad.
 
Its stamped right on the barrel
"max 109gr. powder and 1 5/8 ounces of shot" Thatnks for the help guys,I'm new to this stuff!

Goose smasher
 
GS..I use a plastic shot cup with non-toxic..tried to get turkey patterns out of it but found the right barrel shot right and the left barrel shot left..I'm not all that good with Kentucky wind-age on a stationary target so it's my water-fowling gun.Works great on geese..Keep working on your load column less or more shot less or more powder only change one thing at a time..This will not be a one time range session thing either ..put in your time till you find your happy load.keep your over powder wads or cards light...I too use a slip on pad it just makes it pleasant while load testing...Sorry guys I'm just very happy with this gun!

IMG_0239.jpg
 
Some people use the over shot cards only, they double them as the over powder card. Some people like the cushion wads as well but they cut them down either using only the thinner cushion or doubling up the cushion wads because the thinner ones don't blow their pattern BUT they want the full cushion effect. Some people like to use the shot cups as well (I have some I bought but they have a cushion wad built in I will cut off of some and try with n without). I haven't decided how I want to roll so I have a little of everything to try out I need some round ball and some larger shot to try as well.
 
For a comparison I use a SxS Pedroseli 12 gauge with 1&1/4 ounce shot over 75 grainf FF Geox. The Ten would like a slightly heavier load. I use a newspaper shot cartridge and a 1/2 inch fiber over powder wad. I load the powder (powder ALWAYS goes in first!)Then the wad and then the shot cartridge. I make my shot cartdriges by rolling three layers of newspaper around a dowel rod, tie off one end with kite string, fill the tube with shot fold over and tie off the second end. I do not use any over shot card, just the newspaper cartridge.With the folder over end last in the barrel. For turkey or geese I prefer #4 shot to sixes. I like six for rabbits and pheasants but the larger shot for the larger game birds.I hope this helps you get started.
 
I've never heard of the newspaper cartridge loading technique.Thats for sharing that,I'll have to give it a try when my wads get here!

Goose smasher
 
I have never had a leading problem, evan when shooting over fifty rounds of trap using 1&1/4 ounce # 7&1/2 shot. The idea of the newspaper shot charges developed from my attempts to use the civil war type paper cartridge with shot. I found the shot and powder charges had to be in seperate cartridges for consistant loading. I use a simular cartridge for powder with wax paper instead of newspaper. But the powder cartridges must be opened before loading.
 
Ohio, are you skipping an over-powder wad as well and just doing powder-1/2" fibre wad-shot cartridge?
 
I have a pretty good load for this gun, but to heck if I can find my past posts on here. I also use it for turkeys.

The gun is back home in MN, no point in bringing it here with me only to drag it south again. I dont gun hunt for anything but longbeards.

I'll see if I can't dig the load up for ya....Works well out to 25 yards on the improved and 20 on the mod. I'm sure with some fine tweaking I could get a 30 yard load.

For shotcups, I could never get them to work....they'd either slug, or were useless. Never seemed to be anything inbetween. Kinda cool to see a 10ga shotgun hole in a piece of plywood though.
 
Here's those loads. I still havent tried the muffin mix (shot buffer) to see if it would tighten the load up...something I'll have to try this spring.

Anyways the loads are are follows

105 gr pyd
1 1/2 5s
powder, os, 1/8, shot, os in the mod

and regular
powder, 1/8, full cush, shot, and overshot in cyl barrel.

I have the dixie gun works pedersoli, not the cabelas model with the screwn in chokes.
 
I'll try those loads the next time I'm out Akdan. ?So far the best I've come up with wasout of the mod barrel with
100gr. fg
2-1/8" fiber wads
1 5/8 on.6's
1-1/8" fiber wads.

I haven't shot it much yet,but this load is not too bad in the mod barrel but pretty open in the cylinder.

Goose smasher
 
you will get better patterns, and better down range pellet energy if you use less powder in that cylinder bore, and #5 shot instead. The heavier charges work okay in choked barrels. Not so well in cylinder bored barrels. With #5 shot, and about 90-95 grains of Goex 2Fg powder, your patterns at 35 yards should be sufficiently dense to bring down birds at that distance. In my experience, #6 shot begins to lose a lot of energy out past 30 yards, unless shot out of modern guns, with smokeless powder loads, and full choked barrels.

Check the Lyman Shotshell Reloading Manual( any edition) and look for the tables that give Velocity for most birdshot, at Muzzle, 20,40, and 60 yards, and then the separate chart for pellet energy for each size shot at those velocities and ranges. Then take a look at the "drop in flight", and "time in flight" tables for the same size shot and MVs. Combined, the tables are very instructive. :thumbsup:

You can't fool Mother Nature. Accept it. :shocked2: :hmm:
 
I did forget I have added and os card over the cushion wad in the cyl barrel to help the shot from imprinting into the cushion wad..helped quite a bit.

Also I'm using copper plated number 5s. 6's didnt pattern for me as well. I thought about mixing 5/6's and see what happens. Either way when the mod barrel goes boom, turkeys die.

One thing I did do and I HIGHLY recommend is junk those nipples and replace them with some redhots. Mine had some serious fire issues till I changed them. LOTS of missfires on toms! Changed those nipples and ZERO missfires! Had some of the best setups in my life when that gun was misfiring, couldnt get the job done, damn near gaged on a diamphram I had a hen so worked up and a nice merriam longbeard following in tow, only to bust a cap and no boom! Talk about flustered.

Paul I WISH I could irk another 5 maybe 10 yards out of both barrels....hunting field birds it sure would be nice. The shotcup idears so far havent worked. They either slugged, or didnt do a darn thing. To include some steel plastic shotcups. Damn near burned a tub of pyrodex trying to get one to work. Havent tried the newspaper idear yet, or the corn muffin mix.....we'll see.

I do need to work a load up for geese though, she doesnt like steel...has anyone tried the nice shot? I think that's what it's called, basically a bysmuth replacement?
 
Dan: To prevent the "slug " effect, cut slits in the front of the cups, about 1/2 Inch long, so that you create "tabs" that fold out as the packet leaves the muzzle and act as air brakes for the shot cups. This is one time where mimicking what the factories have been doing since they introduced plastic shotcups for modern cartridges makes sense. I have no doubt that a properly constructed shotcup will work in any choked gun barrel. In a cylinder bore, however, the diameter of the cup, as to be a couple of hundred thousandths under bore diameter, and those slits help to get the cup to separate from the shot.

Roundball's success using a " tail" on the back of the cups he makes, also works. No, I would not use them for shooting at geese, but for turkey, where you are only likely to get one shot per bird, they make sense.

He ties a knot in a string, which goes through the center of the bottom of his paper cup, with the bottom glued shut. The string holds a cotton strip, tied with another knot, but with a couple of inches of string so that it follows well behind the cup. The cotton strip becomes the air brake, slowing and separating the cup from the shot after the package leaves the muzzle.

In loading, the cotton tail is folded and stuffed down the barrel after an OP Wad and cushion wad are seated. The String follows, and the cup is entered into the muzzle. Then the shot is loaded into the cup, the rest of the cup is finger pressed into the muzzle, followed by a OS card( or two) and the entire shot package is pushed down onto the Cushion wad.

I like the idea of using newspaper, as its so available to all of us, and represents what I think the value that most newspaper reporting has sunk to these days. But the diameter of the tube has to be less than the bore diameter, and you have to experiment some to find out how many wraps around your mandrill are needed to create a cup that won't become confetti when it leaves the muzzle.

Some members here have no problem Tying the shot into the packet, at both ends. They claim that it splits open and produces good groups. I have not tried their systems, so can't comment. I believe you would get more reliable patterns and more consistent separation of the shot from the newspaper if you tear the front end of the shot packet OFF at the muzzle, and put an OS card or two on top to hold the shot in your barrel. You might also have to cut slits into the newsprint package, 1/4-1/2", but I have not heard of others having to do this.

[ I have made cups from the 3M "post-it Note" paper, with the glue strip on the top to use to seal the tube I make. That paper is substantially thicker than newsprint, and I need the slits in the cups to make them separate reliably. I did get low modified patterns from my cylinder bore shotgun barrel when using these paper shotcups.]

Keep experimenting, and good luck during this SPring's Turkey season. :thumbsup:
 

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