ebiggs said:
What it seems I am hearing, from the last two topics I have posted and you guys have been so gracious to reply, is my TC will never be 100% reliable. Possibly not even 90%, although it is a brand new gun and not a cheap gun either. Nobody has come right out and said so but there is and underlying theme. And it seems to be that the only way to achieve reliable ignition is with a custom flintlock gun. My patience meter is almost pegged to the red line. I am not willing to spend any more money on flintlocks! Remember the other TC that I have, although is used, has a brand new replacement L&R lock with real flints. It doesn’t perform any better than the stock TC does.
I have drilled the touchhole one-drill size larger today (hard to hold that little bugger) and I will give it a try this weekend. I used a 5/64th bit. This may be it, however, unless it works to where I think I can start the process of making a hunting rifle out of it. Time is not on my side as deer season, in Kansas, opens soon; Sept.21st and that TC cap gun in the gun safe have never misfired for me. I can hear it calling now! Pick me, pick me.
No flintlock is 100% reliable, good ones are very close, good as a percussion or very near it IF properly maintained, but not 100%. I had a lock misfire on me today but the flint broke the first shot and this was about #10 with a flint with an 1/8" wide surface to strike the frizzen. Had I changed the flint this would not have happened but it worked good enough for what I was doing. If I had a FL that missed fire 10% of the time with a good flint etc, I would fix it.
I have virtually no misses or flashes when hunting but I take care to assure I don't. I make SURE the flint is good etc. Shooting on the range misfires are not that important.
The TC will likely never be as good as a really good flintlock. Its not meant to be. Its meant to be good enough to sell.
The L&R is the same. Its made to work good enough to sell. I have never had one of these that did not require tuning. The one I just used the cock stopped far too soon and the main and frizzen springs both required re-arching to get the tension right. It s great fast lock, now. So buying a replacement lock made in a factory to replace a lock made in the factory is not going to solve the problem.
If you have the "model 03" flint I suggest you remove the cock from the lock and cut the front of the throat below the bottom jaw with a hacksaw. Heat and bend until the gap made by the saw closes. Reinstall the cock and see if it works better. Have the cut either Tig welded or hard silver soldered.
This makes for a *much* better lock when this cock is used on the L&R waterproof lock.
The TC and every other factory made flintlock is designed to be assembled by anyone that can control a screw driver and then be sold for a "competitive price". It is unlikely that many of the employees understand the flintlock.
The skill and understanding of the person that assembles a lock can have major effect on how well is works. I shot two rifles this morning both with large Siler locks. The one I reworked, the other was either a kit or is as assembled at any rate. The lock I forged a main spring for and reshaped the frizzen spring for and had it casehardened in colors is faster, more consistent and more reliable than the other. I shot maybe 12-15 shots and had no mis/hangfires. The other lock produced at least one hangfire in fewer shots because the flint was not perfectly sharp.
So one cannot expect a lock with poor springs assembled by someone who only knows part B goes into part C to build a consistent, reliable lock.
But as with many things "your mileage may vary".
Drilling vents bigger seldom cures a problem of this short if the vent is worth a hoot and is properly installed its almost invariably the lock.
Dan